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I highly doubt it's a valve problem... and your mechanics tale of having to adjust the one valve to .013" never did make any sense at all. That's a wild goose chase IMHO. It's going to be either a fuel or ignition problem that is affected by heat. What is the temperature gauge reading when in Traffic and the problem occurs? More likely fuel. Having to pull the choke lever on when it gets hot indicates engine is running out of fuel. Could very well be vapor lock. Can you take a few clear pictures of your engine. I want to see a few things. Some good shots of the carburation and fuel lines and fuel filter would be very helpful. Take a few general pictures of ignition system and wiring as well. BTW... do you have the factory heat shield in place under the carbs? Edit: You need to find a different mechanic IMHO. Your Porsche " expert " has some strange ideas or you are not understanding him. Either way, these are simple engines and any decent mechanic should have it running like a top by now.

I think I have 2 pairs of originals in the shop some where. I plan to use them on the yellow car if I ever get it finished. I also have a pair of 260z Euro's too some where but don't own a 260/280... They still look good dusty...

Very nice. I enjoy seeing what you've been able to accomplish in this project, especially because you're working in a relatively small garage space (and I think we all know that you can never have a garage space that's too big). Can you share some tips on buying parts off the internet from Japan-based vendors? For example: Do you direct-shop from vendors' websites, or are you searching through eBay-type auction listings? Do you speak/read Japanese, or are you using an online translator? How are you able to understand, and then select/negotiate, the shipping arrangements? Or do you work through a broker in Japan?

Sell them to Dave Patten and let him use them as patterns..

I am a little surprised some of you didn't realize how serious the rust issue can be. The early Datsuns were among the worst. Slightly worse than old Jeeps but better than international scouts. If you drive an early z in this area of the country year round, it will be totaled in 5 years. The rust areas are that small steel plate inside the front wheel wells. That turns into a hole 3" high by 8" long. The frame rails the engine sits on are the second to go. The tops of the front fenders have nothing to protect them from stones hitting them from underneath so the tops of those wide fenders rust through (280z's had some protection underneath). Then the rear fenders go. The rockers and floors go at about the same time. In '79, the frame on my '73 was so far gone the sway bar was no longer bolted to anything on the driver side. There was nothing there to bolt to. My current '71 is the first Z I have seen that didn't have any rust. I am not saying mine is the only one not rusted. I am saying as a Z fan, this is the first car I have seen that is not rusted. You never see series one on the road any longer. Literally never. Oh and I forgot to add one more thing. Back then in Indiana, vehicles had to have safety inspections. Mine didn't pass because of the floorboard on the driver side. There wasn't one. Recently, I was very passively shopping for one. Then I ran across mine. It was originally a California car. I dont think it has even been wet for 20 years, certainly no snow. The frame looked new. The springs still had a slight gloss to them. The frame, floorboards, insides of the fenders looked as if had only 10k miles on it. As I looked it over, all I could think of is "Holy mother of God. My wife is going to kill me." Then I bought it.

The car had VTec - Yo!