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http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-4/ Has to be a record price for an automatic....no?

a little progress over the last couple days - stripped the pan (an hour w/the wire wheel and more w/hand abrasives), straightened the dimpled flange & painted, stripped a bunch of misc. brackets & painted. picked up the block from autosport seattle - tanked, deck surfaced, bores honed. ugly on the outside but real purdy on the inside. spent about 1 1/2 hrs cleaning it off using questionable safety practices - mounted my wire wheel on the angle grinder and went at it hell bent for shiny metal. by the time i was done i felt like i'd mixed it up w/a porcupine as i picked countless wire bristles out of my clothes and flesh... all in the name of progress. 2 coats of POR engine block paint and she don't look half bad. pan in process & done: misc bits: block transformation:

Here's a few shots. Used 7/32" vac line, found some smooth hose barbs to fit. Used a little Permatex "aviation" on everything. Put some wirecare braid sleeve on it for looks. Didn't bother hooking up the light. Took a drive to check it out, car ran really crappy, my first thought was the gauge messed it up somehow. Had the symptoms of fouled plugs, though, so pulled the plugs and sure enough the back three were fouled. Cleaned them off and set the back carb a little leaner, took another drive and it ran well. The vacuum gauge works fine, but I'd be afraid to put an automotive mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the cockpit (industrial gauges are all metal, made in USA or Germany, repairable, with tempered glass faceplates good for 200 psi, bourdon tubes good for 3 times max pressure on gauge, etc.). Maybe there are better automotive gauges I don't know about. Vacuum really drops out on acceleration, guess the SU pistons are dropping as well. Learning experience.

Cool, I'll come up from Portland for Z talk & food. Anyone else from the Portland metro area want to join in the fun? Mark

Fire up the grill, I'll be in Seattle in June for 2 weeks.

The general rule of thumb when replacing bulbs is to go with a bulb of the same color as the lens that will go over it in order to achieve the best illumination. This applies to LEDs as well. In this case you would replace the clear incandescent backup bulb (which sits behind a clear lens) with a clear (white) LED. In the case of amber turn signal lenses you would use amber LEDs, etc.

Here's the latest. It's Revision "M". It includes the two changes mentioned above (voltage regulator and illumination light in the Temp/Oil gauge): 1977 Color Wiring Diagram Version M.pdf Wayne had asked for me to take a look at it and upload it if I got the chance. Never tried to attach a pdf before, so let's hope this works right!! Thanks again Wayne!!

Thanks to Captain Obvious, a couple of errors in the Fuse Box drawing in this diagram have been corrected. Here is the corrected 77 wiring diagram, and I'll also be merging the thread discussing the errors to this one. E Scanlon Moderator F77ZCAR-WIRING[Edited].pdf