Leaderboard

So: This job took a while, I bought the magical wack-a-mole style and of course it does not clear the cam shaft. So I tried a few other models and there was the same problem with all of them. They all would work well if the cam was removed. So I ordered the Sealy from England. With the exchange rate and shipping it came out to just under $75 cdn. As well it took a few weeks to get here. Once I had the tool as everyone stated it was a nice quick afternoon job to replace all of the seals.

Here is a thought, Maybe all the hopes and dreams that come out of the Beer cans can be repackaged in a heat sealed toothpaste tube and carried with you when out driving the Z.

Yes, and yes! Lucky, lucky bastard and Australian table wines. I did a little web searching and found (what is probably) the text from that wine skit. It also identified the source as a record (yes, a RECORD) they put out in 1972 called "Monty Python's Previous Record" - 1972. http://www.phespirit.info/montypython/australian_table_wines.htm We are so far off the path of this thread I hope the OP can forgive us. ::

problem solved. The discontinuity was inside the spade connector at the ballast resistor! I cut the spade connector off to start tracking the B/W line back into the harness ( i untaped the whole front of the harness ), and i thought "hmm let me check continuity on the bare wire". Sure enough, there it was. I had checked that both wires ( one to the pertronix ) were tight, but somehow the current wasnt flowing into the spade. So, put a new spade connector on and voila........ no clue how that works.

Come Oooonnnnnn! You can't be serious!!!!!! Cars!!!! Let's not discuss this at all.

+1 on the header-back 2.5" system. i did this and am very, very pleased. sound is amazing and will make you feel like speed racer every time you pull past 4K rpm here's my thread on this - there are many others as well: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49967-2-12-shop-built-exhaust-sounds-great/?hl=2.5 bolt-up systems are available, but for the price you can get a custom setup fabbed and have it exactly like you want. find a good mom-&-pop muffler shop and you can do the whole thing for $200-$400 including the resonator in the tunnel, muffler and tip. alumanized steel is fine for the pipes, as they don't hold water much and will last plenty long - mandrel bent is best for free-flow, go with stainless resonator and muffler, as they are the first to rot out, then get a polished stainless tip which will look beautiful forever. much has been written about using a tip that turns down and sticks out a bit farther than the rear bumper to help get exhaust out of the airstream so it doesn't pull back into the cabin. lots of threads on this - of course a simple muffler swap will change the sound, but it's a pretty small step up to do the whole thing and be very, very happy.