Thats a good idea!

Another idea would be: put both inner parts of both valves in the one solution, you got 2 fly's in one hit! (Dutch saying..) 🤠

On 5/16/2023 at 10:24 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

put it in washing detergent and let it soak a few days

 

On 5/17/2023 at 3:29 AM, Patcon said:

Thats a good idea!

And? did it work out?  It's a gamble but who knows.. 

I haven't tried yet

It can't get any worse.. the metall will get clean and the rubberparts will get better, if that's enough to let it work well.. we don't no untill we try.. 🤠

If not.. nothing lost!

I'm not concerned about ruining it. Just too busy to get into the shop right now.

I had a go at this, since I was waiting for the aftermarket 74627 valve to come. I replaced the body square cut seal with a Viton thick wall o-ring. No external leaks, however the valve doesn't fully shut - the I/O hoses still have warmth to them, indicating some passage of coolant. I'm going to switch it out for the 74627.

5 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

the I/O hoses still have warmth to them

Could come from just conduction.. or is it still hot after say an hour after closing the valve?  I think those valves never close very optimal anyway..

3 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Could come from just conduction.. or is it still hot after say an hour after closing the valve?  I think those valves never close very optimal anyway..

That is true - I'll have to check it after more than 20 minutes driving. I had left the valve open for about 20 minutes outbound drive, to make sure there were no air pockets, then drove back with it closed. My experience with other cars is that with the valve closed the hose on the output side of the core will be cooler than the input, the I/O still felt pretty even in temp. I'll check it again.