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77 280z Restoration


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On 3/18/2022 at 5:17 PM, Av8ferg said:

ZHome page shows that they didn’t make a 3.9 in the R180.   So looking a pics online Ii found 3.9 R200’s that looks like mine and others that have the bolts around the where the hang shafts attach.  So did they change the designs in the later years of the ZX?  
 
 
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i have an r180 here with 3.90, but it's from a 240z non us, so they did make them, just not on the later z's

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Looks sharp!  Said this before, but good to have a look at this to keep me inspired toward completing my 78 project.  You may have reported this before, but where did you find the steering wheel?  It’s a nice addition.  

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23 minutes ago, 280Zrewind said:

Looks sharp!  Said this before, but good to have a look at this to keep me inspired toward completing my 78 project.  You may have reported this before, but where did you find the steering wheel?  It’s a nice addition.  

Found the steering wheel in a junkyard on a 240z.  I acquired 2 on them that way and bought one for $165.  This one in the pics was the worst condition one of the batch.   It was really bad.   I decided to attempt a refurbishment of this one as a test and it came out great so I didn’t bother with the other one.   I donated the one I bought to a friend that has helped me out on this build.  Will probably sell the last one I have. 
Here is what it looked like when I got it. 
 

74C0B85A-09DF-4CB2-9441-CA0F172D4B72.jpeg

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I have an ignition switch/cylinder lock question.  I bought a whole new in ignition assembly because mine is worn so bad the key practically falls out  and it’s finicky.  Hard to turn, hard to know what position the key is in, key goes in both ways etc..

The new one arrived and reading the forum is appears I have to cut a notch in two of the mounting screws to remove them. Secondly my old assembly has two wires coming out of a small black plastic piece right near the key.  This is separate from the actually switch.  I’m assuming this is what activates the buzzer to let you know the key is inserted. The new assembly just has a plastic piece there, no place to attach wires.  Is this something I need to remove and then attach my old wires too?  I didn’t want to pry that plastic piece off and break something.   Anyone else down this job recently?  

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I would leave the new switch alone.  There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch.   Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me.

I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock.  I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started.  Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

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21 hours ago, S30Driver said:

I would leave the new switch alone.  There are probably no electrical contacts under that plastic piece since it is a aftermarket switch.   Just abandon the buzzer. it is annoying anyway, at least for me.

I have never had to slot the anti theft screws on the lock.  I remove them with a small screwdriver, tap them with something counter clockwise to get them started.  Some have drilled a small dent near the screw edge to help with the screwdriver or punch.

I know this is going to sound crazy but I don’t mind the buzzer.  I actually bought a replacement buzzer when rebuilding the dash   Good reminder you left the key in the car.  
I looked tat the wiring diagram and it doesn’t show those  two red w/ blue strip wires for the key anywhere.   I know it’s for the buzzer because it’s the only connection left on the ignition assembly and the buzzer sounds when the key is in.   
 

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Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end.

And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm.

Here's some pics that might help:

P1140484.JPG

P1140486.JPG

P1140492.JPG

 

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