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280z master fuse list?


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I have both hard copy of a 77 manual and an electronic version and I think they match. 77 works out fine for me, but 76 does not.

So I'm not sure which way 76 goes... I agree that the fuse block cover is tangible evidence held in my hand and I would be inclined to just go with that, but the issue shows up on the whole-car wiring diagram, not just that detail on page BE-12.

I couldn't screen shot the wiring diagram to highlight the issue because it's too big and would be unreadable anyway. But on that wiring diagram, it shows the forth fuse down powering the turn signals.

So I guess the idea of expanding my master fuse diagram to earlier years is dead in the water until someone with a 76 can answer that question.

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Posted (edited)

Here's 1975.  If the fuse box cover changed in 1976 but the diagrams didn't I'd say it's just an oversight on Nissan's part.  Or the change happened mid-1976.

There does seem to be more than one version of the 1975 FSM.  I have one that has many typos and errors.  Maybe there are multiple 1976 versions too.

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Edited by Zed Head
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At this point, I'm not confident until or unless someone pulls some fuses on 75's and 76's and notes what goes dark.  LOL

I had said earlier that everything from 74 to the end used #3 left as the turn signals, but looking at the diagrams again, it appears the both 75 and 76 used #4. But at least for 75, the picture of the fuse box cover agrees with the details elsewhere in the FSM for that year.

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Posted (edited)

Doesn't @Dave WM have a 75?  @wheee! has a 76.  Maybe they can pop those fuses out and see if the turn signals still work.  That's the test, right?  Fuses should be removed and checked every now and then anyway, especially on these old cars.

Here's some others I found.

@fusion 1976

@carcrazyken  76

@280z762021

@76280z

@bhermes

@Barefootdan 75

@Cruzzar 75

@ernesto75

 

 

Edited by Zed Head
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Posted (edited)

build date 5/75 turn signal fuse forth up from bottom left side of fuse block.

Note this was not the same as the hazard, I presume since the hazards work regardless of ign switch (turn signals need to be ign "ON").

Edited by Dave WM
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Thanks Dave.

Just to confirm. You're saying that on your 75... When you pulled the forth fuse up from the bottom (which is also the forth down from the top) that your turn signals stopped working?

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LOL. "We gotsta know."  Thanks Dave.

So we have a confirmation that the documentation for the 75 seems to be accurate. The 76 is still the odd-man out with the conflicting documentation, but 75 looks good.

And by the way... I believe the fuse for your hazards is two down from your turn signals.  Labeled "Dome Light". I believe that one runs the 4-ways too. 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

LOL. "We gotsta know."  Thanks Dave.

So we have a confirmation that the documentation for the 75 seems to be accurate. The 76 is still the odd-man out with the conflicting documentation, but 75 looks good.

And by the way... I believe the fuse for your hazards is two down from your turn signals.  Labeled "Dome Light". I believe that one runs the 4-ways too. 

I was starting to cramp up, otherwise I would have pursued the hazards. Getting into those tight spaces is harder the older you get. 

As an experiment, I am going to try using the IR gun to see if I can pick up the heat off the fuses to see which ones are active. Just a tiny bit easier than popping them one by one. You may note the small O rings on the right hand side, 2nd from the bottom. That is the AC fuse. That one runs hot if you use "MAX" ac. Now the manual calls that "emergency" or something level of cooling. So I guess they realized it was a weak point. My fuse box is in good shape and I have done my best to clean the contacts. the heat is generated at the ends of the fuse connection (the springs). My use of o rings was an attempt to tighten this area up, over the years I am sure it has lost some tension. I have considered trying to replace those spring ends, maybe solder the crimp connections if that is adding heat (the spring ends are crimped to the wires on the bottom of the fuse box), but i have found since adding the o rings the issue is manageable. The problem with the excess heat is it will over time melt the plastic top right over the fuse. since the o rings the melting is not happening, but you do need to check to make sure the O rings are holding up over time. 

Edited by Dave WM
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1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

I was starting to cramp up, otherwise I would have pursued the hazards. Getting into those tight spaces is harder the older you get.

Great. So you're saying it's going to get worse. That's fantastic. Can't wait.

As or the IR gun, I think you would have better success with an IR camera (FLIR?) instead of the gun. I don't know if the guns are pinpoint accurate enough to highlight the small area of one fuse. You're really looking for the differential between one fuse and another and I don't know if the gun would be good enough for that.

Physics says there would be power dissipated any time there's an ohmic connection passing current. So don't forget the fact that the fuse clips are crimped onto the ends of wires. That's another ohmic connection. And one that you can't clean like the fingers on the clips themselves.

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its those crimps i was considering soldering, maybe next time I have a reason to pull the fuse box. They looked very good last time I had it off, I was thinking about it, but I can't remember if the spring clips were fastened to the fuse box (in which case heat from the solder iron may be an issue) of if the removable (perhaps snap in like).

Oh and yes it was the 2 from the bottom left side "Dome" light fuse that was for the hazards. The IR gun was not a good idea, as you mentioned the resolution was not good enough to narrow down to the exact fuse. I agree the FLIR would be perfect, a nice diagnostic tool to have. I have a youtube friend that uses one all the time looking for too hot parts on PCB's and point to point chassis.

 

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To add to the confusion... from the microfiche... It appears the issue is mid model year 1975...

54Q-1 is for model year 1977-78

54F-1 is for model year 1975-1976

 

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