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Restoration of HLS30-12070


CW240Z72

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On 2/17/2021 at 7:17 PM, CW240Z72 said:

That’s correct. There are a few variables that can alter the print quality, but the individual layering will always be visible. 

What kind of money needs to be spent for an adequately sized 3d printer?  And is that technology moving so fast that, what is $3000 today, will be $800 in a year?

Edited by inline6
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2 hours ago, inline6 said:

What kind of money needs to be spent for an adequately sized 3d printer?  And is that technology moving so fast that, what is $3000 today, will be $800 in a year?

$200-$300 will get you setup with a quality printer with a print size in the 200 mm x 200 mm x 250 mm range. For me that’s perfect for what I use it for. Prototyping mounting brackets, small NLA trim pieces, emblems, you name it. I’ve also printed larger pieces in sections, then glued them together.

My 72 Z I am printing a center bezel for the dash to house the Vintage Air controls and my Haltech keypad. I don’t like the aluminum delete panel look, and this will have the shape of the stock bezel but fit the new controls. 

You can glue, body work, and paint the pieces to form very strong and seamless parts. 

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Just remember PLA basically looses its shape above 60°C. If you want to use it in the engine bay / interior (summer) annealing or a different filament is a must. In your print above the belt tension is too low and/or the print speed is too high (shifted layers). 

Your restoration is inspiring! 

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2 hours ago, Dens240 said:

Can you show a photo of your A/C hose penetration through the firewall? Are you using bulkhead connectors in that location?

I'd still like to get up there and see this build in person!

Welcome anytime. Right now I am using the holes previously drilled into the firewall for the AC lines. I’m using the same evaporator that came out of the car, since whoever installed this system previously did a good job routing the lines. Of course, the lines that came in the kit I bought are too short, but you can get an idea for how they’ll look once installed. I’ll add edge trim on some of the battery tray flanges prevent rubbing too. 
 

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6 minutes ago, CW240Z72 said:

Few updates on the Z. Tonight’s progress includes mounting the rebuilt pedal box assembly, brake booster, master cylinders, and last of the hard lines.
 

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Man, I know I keep commenting on this build, but you need to sell passes to the club members like a Disney ride to come see this thing when you're done.

Thanks so much, this keeps me motivated on my 73 build.

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22 minutes ago, DC871F said:

Man, I know I keep commenting on this build, but you need to sell passes to the club members like a Disney ride to come see this thing when you're done.

Thanks so much, this keeps me motivated on my 73 build.

I am finally uncovered from 4” of snow here in north TX. Been an absolute roller coaster for us southerners more accustomed to 105 F temps, not -5 F. 
 

Hopefully late spring/early summer I will have the Z road worthy. Been itching to get back to car shows and sync up with other Z folks in person. Also debating on making the hike to ZCON this year with the Z.

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Rebuilding the factory antenna. The mast was broken on this Z when we got it, but fortunately the remains were left in the car. Tore the unit down and determined the motor was beyond repair. Luckily I have three other complete units (also with broken masts) to use as donors. Pulled two assemblies apart to build one functional unit.

 I also have 3 NOS series 2 masts on hand. With the only physical difference I could see between the two was the end tip, I was able to unthread the pointed tip off the original, and create a “series 1” antenna out of the later one. Rebuilt, greased, and tested, it’s ready for install once I can locate another 2 piece bulkhead assembly that fastens the antenna to the body. 


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2F3AD838-AABC-4177-9F61-44DBA2B36FE3.jpeg

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47 minutes ago, CW240Z72 said:

Rebuilding the factory antenna. The mast was broken on this Z when we got it, but fortunately the remains were left in the car. Tore the unit down and determined the motor was beyond repair. Luckily I have three other complete units (also with broken masts) to use as donors. Pulled two assemblies apart to build one functional unit.

 I also have 3 NOS series 2 masts on hand. With the only physical difference I could see between the two was the end tip, I was able to unthread the pointed tip off the original, and create a “series 1” antenna out of the later one. Rebuilt, greased, and tested, it’s ready for install once I can locate another 2 piece bulkhead assembly that fastens the antenna to the body. 

Good info.  I suspected that some creativity could be applied to take a mix and match of early and later antenna parts and get a functional "series 1" antenna.  I'm on the look out for suitable donor parts.  You mention series 2 masts.  Do you know when the antennas changed from the point end?  My car is a 6/71 series two, and I honestly don't know at the moment which tip the original antenna came with.  The antenna did not come with the car.  

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3 minutes ago, inline6 said:

Good info.  I suspected that some creativity could be applied to take a mix and match of early and later antenna parts and get a functional "series 1" antenna.  I'm on the look out for suitable donor parts.  You mention series 2 masts.  Do you know when the antennas changed to the point end?  My car is a 6/71 series two, and I honestly don't know at the moment which tip the original antenna came with.  The antenna did not come with the car.  

That’s a great question. I honestly do not know of when the transition happened. What’s odd is my original 75 280Z had a pointed tip on the antenna. For the late 71/72 cars, I have seen both. I suspect the change happened then, or it was a frequently replaced item with aftermarket units. 

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