Today, I was able to get the transmission back into the car. Because I am one-handed at the moment, I purchased a transmission jack, and I enlisted the help of a friend. This thing is quite the beast - 1000 lb. capacity and it has two telescoping lifting sections (rods). It cost more than I wanted to spend, but I couldn't force myself to buy a cheap, garbage version. I guess as I get older, I'm going to need more assistance for jobs like this one. So, this is a nice thing to have available.

I should be able to finish putting the rest back together and take the car for a test drive tomorrow.

I have had the cheap tranny jack for years and I hate it. The double rods are nice. Buy once, cry once. you made the right call!

I was able to get everything back together on the car yesterday. The new yoke (with a new bushing in the back of the transmission) was a very snug fit. After double checking I torqued everything, I was able to take the car on a test drive. What a big difference! I got up to about 80 on some interstate and the severe vibration, which previously could be felt with a hand on the transmission tunnel, and seen in the blurring rear view mirror, was gone.

Now, I can get back to the small list of things that I have to do to finish this car:

• install inside rear tail light trim panel

• install front right kick panel

• clean and glue in tool compartment liners

• repaint tail light trim panels (for better color match)

• install NOS glove box hinge/inside panel

• install rear hatch trim panel

• repair and install factory radio, or install guts of a new radio in the old radio case

Edited May 31May 31 by inline6

I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done.

Instead, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified.

Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video.

Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?