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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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45 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

I am pretty impressed that you have two 'reasonable' looking filters here.  Of the 6 carbs that I had at my disposal, 4 of the filters were completely disintegrated.  And, I think your two are better than mine.

It will probably be about a month before I put the carbs on so I have a little time to piece something together before then. Below are pics of the SST 60, 80 and 150 mesh.  The 150 mesh appears to be more like the brass mesh size.  The 80 mesh (in the middle) is actually pretty nice because it has reasonably small holes and is still somewhat stiff. The 150 mesh has opening size of .0041" while the 80 mesh is .006", 50 mesh is .011".

 

I was surprised as well. I was never going to use these as I have a 70 with 4 screw carbs. The PO of the 73 had bead blasted the entire carbs and said they were rebuilt, but a quick inspection indicated they were not rebuilt just cleaned up visually. I had never thought any of the flat tops were worth much for resale. I still kept them thinking some parts might be needed by someone. 

I would think the 180 mesh you have is closer to the stock mesh. As for the filters being unnecessary, I disagree.  All cars, new and old ones have some sort of fuel filter. To each there own I guess. 

I might have to try these on eBay.......

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I know you're probably restoring so want things to look right.  So maybe an extra filer is not describable.  But if the new filters, which are invisible once installed, don't filter to a finer level or the same level as the "strainer" aren't they kind of pointless?  I wonder what the material on the inside of the strainer is?  This is from 1972, I can't find earlier stuff.

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This was my reasoning for suggesting the finer mesh

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Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now.  The back side was pretty corroded.  Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed.  With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

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31 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now.  The back side was pretty corroded.  Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed.  With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

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What techniques are you using?

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+1 on technique, I've thought about using vapour blasting to clean the wheels (remove all old brake dust/road grime etc..) and then have a fresh surface ready to polish. Looks like you're using a mechanical method to clean these?

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Technique is pretty old school.  No vapor blasting here.  

For the Back side which was pretty caked, I attached an old wire wheel from my bench grinder to my Makita angle grinder.  It worked great.  Plenty of power and RPM's.  It cut through the corrosion pretty quick without eating up the aluminum.  Then I Used my cordless drill with the little conical wire brush attachment and got the crevices.

For the front, I used small wire wheels on the slots.  Then I used sandpaper, then polishing compound, then Mothers Power Ball to finish out.   I used 220 grit on the road rash that was on the lip.  Otherwise it takes forever to smooth things out.  Then I used 500, then 1000, then 1500 grit on the entire front of the rim.  I sanded mostly in a radial direction.  Then used the Dark Gray polishing compound with polishing wheel attached to my $18 Harbor Freight 3000 RPM corded drill.  After that I went over it again with the finer white polishing compound.  After that I used the Mothers power ball along with the Mothers polish and then wiped clean.  It takes about 2 hours per wheel going through the whole process.  Also use the sandpaper and polish on the slots.

So, that's it.  

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Any concerns about using a steel brush on the aluminum wheels and causing rust stains?

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Any concerns about using a steel brush on the aluminum wheels and causing rust stains?

Never thought of that. (not sure if I've ever seen that) Would only be an issue for the back side. Maybe I'll hit it with some gloss clear just in case. Wouldn't hurt and would actually make it easier to clean

Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's.  That's pretty hard to find.

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Edited by motorman7
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1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's.  That's pretty hard to find.

 

For those that are curious,  when I purchased this Z new in 1973,  it had Bridgestone RD150 175SR14 tires (per the original spare Motorman7 has just cleaned up).  In my desire for authenticity,  and since Bridgestone no longer makes the RD150, I started searching for any Bridgestone tires of the correct original size. 

Bridgestone does not sell that size in the US anymore, but they do in Europe and Australia.  (B330 EVO 175/80 14 models)  I contacted several sellers in the UK, but none would ship to the US.  Finally found a seller on the eBay UK site, who would ship from France!  Only took a couple of weeks to get here.  I have the other two at my home in N. California, and will be taking them to Motorman7 in a couple of weeks.

In my signature block below is the car in 1973 with those beautiful shinny wheels and the RD150 175/80 14 tires:

Edited by jayhawk
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I am glad they sell them in Australia! I was wondering where I was going to find 14" wheels for my 71 date stamped Topy's to suit my white 71 240z.

My Australian delivered 70 240z, HS30 00150 was fitted with "Aunger Hotwires" and not the steel topy's (I believe dealer fitted) and so the spare tyre is actually of that era. I'll have to check but I believe it's a bridgestone. Kats has already noted I have a "432" style spare wheel tie down for it in the rear. I think HS30 00051 also had jelly bean wheels like these (probably Aunger branded) new from dealer in place of the original caps + steelies.

I've got to great lengths to find appropriate date stamped steel wheels for my cars. Although I may clean up the dealer fitted "alloys" like you have done here.

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2 minutes ago, Gav240z said:

I am glad they sell them in Australia! I was wondering where I was going to find 14" wheels for my 71 date stamped Topy's to suit my white 71 240z.

My Australian delivered 70 240z, HS30 00150 was fitted with "Aunger Hotwires" and not the steel topy's (I believe dealer fitted) and so the spare tyre is actually of that era. I'll have to check but I believe it's a bridgestone. Kats has already noted I have a "432" style spare wheel tie down for it in the rear. I think HS30 00051 also had jelly bean wheels like these (probably Aunger branded) new from dealer in place of the original caps + steelies.

I've got to great lengths to find appropriate date stamped steel wheels for my cars. Although I may clean up the dealer fitted "alloys" like you have done here.

Hope they still sell the Bridgestone 175/80 14 there.  I found them in Australia in searches last fall, but now only UK dealers are showing up in my searches for those Bridgestones.  If you cannot find those tires there, send me a PM and I'll find the  eBay UK link I used.

When I bought my Z, the dealer gave me a $10 credit for each of the original hubcaps.  He was a new owner of the dealership, and later found out he already had an attic full of those 240Z hubcaps.  I wonder if that attic is still full....  (but I still like the slotted "mag" wheels better!)

Good luck!

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Got my parts shipment in from Zcardepot.  Firewall insulator, glove box, emblems, spindle pins and lots of small rubber parts.  It's the little details that make everything look great.  Still having a hard time getting the pics to come out well.  I have to use the flash, otherwise all I get is reflection.

 

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Put most of the front suspension in, except for the sway bar bushings.  Also put in some of the other attaching hardware.  Here are some pics.  Pics look a little better with the natural light.  May try and get the rear suspension in tomorrow.

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Edited by motorman7
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3 hours ago, Gav240z said:

Where did you get those dollies under the front wheels from?

Got those from Harbor Freight for $48 after the 20% discount with coupon 🙂.  They had cheaper ones, but these ones had the wheel locks which I preferred.

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The engine bay plate cleaned up good. What did you use? I have heard toothpaste works good...

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10 hours ago, Patcon said:

The engine bay plate cleaned up good. What did you use? I have heard toothpaste works good...

I used this stuff one the engine bay plate.  I like this stuff a lot and use it on the rain gutter trim and similar items.

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Put the rear suspension in this evening. Borrowed a couple tires for the rear.  Two more Bridgestones will be here on Saturday, so this is temporary. 

Lighting is funny as always.  The undercoat looks gray.  It is actually flat black.

 

 

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Beautiful work. It's so fun to be putting together clean shiny parts!

Didn't want to clutter up that other thread, but thought you might like a pic of the last shift knob I made:
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Forgot to mention... I took a couple minutes to look into the possibility of modifying the hex cap to be able to use injector filters instead of the original carb filter, and I came to the conclusion that it's not feasible. Using a custom cap with a recessed area to accept the closed end of the filter seems like it would work, but the problem is the other end. There diameter of the injector filter is just too small and interferes with the raised lip down inside the carb body that's supposed to align the non-cap end of the filter.

On ‎2‎/‎12‎/‎2019 at 11:37 AM, motorman7 said:

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I was looking at some old pics from other cars for unrelated reasons though and turned up a pic of a variable valve timing oil filter. This is from a 2006 Hyundai 4-cyl Tiburon. Not the right size, but maybe could be modified to work. Or I wouldn't be surprised if there was something out there in a different car (with oil controlled variable valve timing) that has something that would be closer.

Here's the one from the Hyundai:
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A nonpareil knob there Capt'n!   LOL

 

 

Regarding the HMB46W (flat top) fuel filters:

In post #265 Rich said  

Quote

"Also need to look into getting new fuel filters.  Do they exist?  Surprised those are not in the rebuild kit."

They do/did exist and are/were in the rebuild kit.

Nissan Part No. 16010-N3302

Hitachi Kit No. AJ52-1904

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A complete rebuild kit for both front and rear carbs.

This is the only one I have found and I feel extremely fortunate to have it.

Probably not many of these around now, but you west coast guys may have better luck finding a source out there in the "Land O' Plenty".

There may be some in Australia and New Zealand, as the 260z was sold there for many more years than in the USA.

At least now you have the part numbers to assist in your efforts to find them.

Good Luck!

 

 

Edited by Zup
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@Zup Wow, that kit is impressive to see.  Those filters are probably worth their weight in gold or more.

@jayhawk will bring these filters by on Saturday and we will check them out.  The collar is a bit long and it is not 'crushable' but we will check the fit.

 

 

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