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Tackling 2 leaks, rad and front main


rcb280z

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Bummer. That's what happens when you torque the crank pulley nut down without having the key and damper all situated correctly before applying mucho force.

The key is supposed to be able to rock in the slot and find it's proper "happy" location. But if you get it rocket too far before you start fitting parts together, it's possible to rock it backwards and get it cockked into a position where the force is normal (perpendicular) to the install direction, and as you found... You can crack the brittle damper.

So I got a question.... Where is the chunk(s) of cast iron that snapped off the back of the damper? Is that stuff inside your front cover now?

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Yeah Capt, I thought everything was lined up, for what I could see. Not sure how / what to do different with the new one. Kinda worried.

14 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

The key is supposed to be able to rock in the slot

I believe this is what gave me the trouble, too much movement. Even Tom Monroe in his how to rebuild your Datsun states you have to tap it in place for the key to seat into the keyway. I could pull mine out with a magnet, thats how loose it was.

I should have stopped and pulled the damper back off when it started to get tight while bolting it in place. But I didn't and it cost me a perfectly fine damper.

The cast piece that broke was still connected. When I pulled the damper back off to look at things it was attached but ready to break off. It just took the flick of a finger to break it the rest of the way. 

I admit that it was all my fault. I should paid better attention to what I was doing and really don't understand why I didn't. One of those, woulda, shoulda, coulda moments. I ASSumed it was going on ok and that's that.

I've got a new balancer, oil slinger, woodruff key, and front seal coming. Everything is OE except for the balancer.  

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Well I know it won't make you feel that much better, but you're not the first one to do this. A local buddy of mine did the exact same thing to his pulley. Glad you didn't lose the chunk behind the front cover. That would have just added insult to injury.

I've messed with lots of keys of various designs working on machinery in addition to cars. Most of them are snug (tight) enough that they don't fall out with gravity, or a magnet, but that's not always the case. I'm not sure a new key will be any tighter, but you'll find out when you get your replacement.

So, to help make sure if doesn't happen again... First, put the pulley on with NO key, just to get a feel for how it goes on. You should be able to feel and hear it clank against the hard stop shoulder on the crank. Pinching the slinger and all that... I've heard some of the pulleys are so tight that you have to use the center bolt to actually jack the damper into place, and I'm not sure how I feel about that.

Get a feel for how it SHOULD go on, and then make sure the key slips gracefully into the slot inside the damper. If the key won't go into the slot on the ID of the damper, then it'll rock out of position when you try to put the pulley into place. Just take it easy and remember, you're not the first!  :)

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I had a similar problem with my cummins when I replaced the injection pump, the key tends to move (pushed back) when the sprocket is inserted, the solution was using some retaining fluid (locktite) let it dry a bit and install sprocket, worked like a charm.

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