Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Recommended Posts

    1 hour ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

    It is just a zinc based primer to protect the bare metal until I am ready to paint it properly.

    Does that mean you remove the zinc primer and respray the 2k epoxy? Or do you just paint over the zinc?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    On 3/3/2018 at 9:02 AM, wheee! said:

    Does that mean you remove the zinc primer and respray the 2k epoxy? Or do you just paint over the zinc?

    I will sand a lot of it off when I go to put the 2k high fill primer on, but some of it will still be there, but it won't be an issue for very small areas.

     

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I will sand a lot of it off when I go to put the 2k high fill primer on, but some of it will still be there, but it won't be an issue for very small areas.

    I found the degreaser would start to remove the zinc primer and I was concerned the top coat would not have a good base to adhere to in those spots. The 2K epoxy is super well bonded to the sheet metal.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    5 hours ago, wheee! said:


    I found the degreaser would start to remove the zinc primer and I was concerned the top coat would not have a good base to adhere to in those spots. The 2K epoxy is super well bonded to the sheet metal.

    The tiny areas which are remaining should not be an issue, as the surface will be keyed again with 80 grit and then high filled, I am not concerned.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Nice work on the rear bumper Jeff! Did you butt weld the ends to the main bar or did you lap weld them?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    19 hours ago, wheee! said:

    Nice work on the rear bumper Jeff! Did you butt weld the ends to the main bar or did you lap weld them?

    They already step in and overlap, so I just lap welded them. Butt welding would require far too much work to beat out the recess to line up with the rest of the bar, and then it probably wouldn't be as strong anyway ;) 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    On 3/10/2018 at 4:02 PM, Home Built by Jeff said:

    They already step in and overlap, so I just lap welded them. Butt welding would require far too much work to beat out the recess to line up with the rest of the bar, and then it probably wouldn't be as strong anyway ;) 

    As usual nice work. I gave up on my metal bonnet also. So no great defeat there just common sense. Going with carbon fiber. Has a more natural shape and will never rust. I probably would have butt welded the bumper. Sandwich areas are always the first to rust. A bit time consuming but no beating. Just cut out the recess and trim to fit.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    6 hours ago, esmit208 said:

    As usual nice work. I gave up on my metal bonnet also. So no great defeat there just common sense. Going with carbon fiber. Has a more natural shape and will never rust. I probably would have butt welded the bumper. Sandwich areas are always the first to rust. A bit time consuming but no beating. Just cut out the recess and trim to fit.

    That is true. I avoid lap welding wherever I can for that very reason. I will have to flip it over at some stage and do something there to make sure the rust is slowed at least. May be hard to cut the end of it off now that it would have to be done from inside the bar. I will sort something out ;) 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I am planning on the same type of mod, fitting the bumper to the car and then butt welding the ends on. I will match the ends as close as possible, cut them flush, then tack them while mounted to the car for position. In my climate, rust will take hold of any crevice...

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Butt weld is better, but I would not worry about it too much at this point (thick metal).  But, I would seam seal the back side to help keep moisture out.  

    Edited by David F
    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    3 hours ago, David F said:

    Butt weld is better, but I would not worry about it too much at this point (thick metal).  But, I would seam seal the back side to help keep moisture out.  

    I was thinking of doing something like that. Just making sure it is neat and last a few more years.

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Jeff

    I repaired, (or at least attempted to) the drivers side dogleg. After I got the part welded in I sprayed it with a coat of rust coverter to avoid surface rust. A few days later I went over it with filler but it wasn't skin coat, it was finishing filler. After 3 months or so it began to seperate. I thought about that when you put rust converter on yours. Will seperation not occur if a skin coat is used first? It seems the proper way to apply filler be it skin or finishing is to apply it directly onto bare metal. Please keep us updated on any issues you may have with your finish. It was pretty easy to chip off the filler on my car after seperation began. Maybe it was something to do with my application.  My plan is to sandblast it clean and then reapply. Since colder weather is aproaching there will you be able to press on with body work?

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    2 hours ago, esmit208 said:

    Jeff

    I repaired, (or at least attempted to) the drivers side dogleg. After I got the part welded in I sprayed it with a coat of rust coverter to avoid surface rust. A few days later I went over it with filler but it wasn't skin coat, it was finishing filler. After 3 months or so it began to seperate. I thought about that when you put rust converter on yours. Will seperation not occur if a skin coat is used first? It seems the proper way to apply filler be it skin or finishing is to apply it directly onto bare metal. Please keep us updated on any issues you may have with your finish. It was pretty easy to chip off the filler on my car after seperation began. Maybe it was something to do with my application.  My plan is to sandblast it clean and then reapply. Since colder weather is aproaching there will you be able to press on with body work?

    You can't just put body filler over anything. The old rule of thumb was body filler must go straight over bare metal, but with some of the new epoxy primers you can put filler over the top of them. You still need to make sure you sand them up well too to 'key in' the filler. It is always less it best with filler too.

    So you shouldn't put it over any old rust converter. Only an epoxy primer designed for it. 

    Edited by Home Built by Jeff

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    @Home Built by Jeff, hey I went through and cleaned up your links for ya.  There were some double and triple videos in the posts.

    Sorry it's a little confusing to post videos here.  Easiest way is to copy the link from Youtube in the "share" option on the bottom right of your videos.  After posting them, it should show a video directly in the forum.

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    39 minutes ago, Mike said:

    @Home Built by Jeff, hey I went through and cleaned up your links for ya.  There were some double and triple videos in the posts.

    Sorry it's a little confusing to post videos here.  Easiest way is to copy the link from Youtube in the "share" option on the bottom right of your videos.  After posting them, it should show a video directly in the forum.

    Thanks. I don't know why it was doing that, as I was just pasting the one link straight into the text box and it would come up with multiples. I couldn't work it out with my small brain, so thanks for sorting it ;)

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    On 3/24/2018 at 4:51 PM, Mike said:

    @Home Built by Jeff, hey I went through and cleaned up your links for ya.  There were some double and triple videos in the posts.

    Sorry it's a little confusing to post videos here.  Easiest way is to copy the link from Youtube in the "share" option on the bottom right of your videos.  After posting them, it should show a video directly in the forum.

    It has just done it again. No idea why as there is only one link?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I believe the bonnet (aka hood) stay on left is further evidence the S30 was designed for North America :)

     

    It goes back even before the  first 432R that raced in Japan on Jan 18, 1970 (below) ,,, with triple Webers no less.

    hood stay.jpg

     

     

    Edited by 240260280
    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    39 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

    I believe the bonnet (aka hood) stay on left is further evidence the S30 was designed for North America :)

    You're a little early with your April 1st joke.

    Hopefully you won't get clipped by any passing traffic when you are messing about with your bonnet/hood stay. I mess with mine whilst I'm standing on the kerb.

    • Like 2

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    43 minutes ago, black gold man said:

    Were is it on other JDM cars.

    In the place that most suits "the USA", obviously...

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now