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Head Removal Problem


orangething

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Trying to remove the head of my n42/n42 the bolt circled in green snapped on me with one thread showing on the piece removed. Which means it should be below the block surface and not preventing me from removing the head, right? The bolt with the blue arrow felt as though it was cross threaded all the way in, and now that I have it backed out as far as it will go it just continues to spin. Ive tried prying up on it while turning it, ive tried tightening it again, ive tried beating on it in frustration...right now I have vice grips on it trying to pull it out. I dont know if they put a long bolt in a short hole and it mushroomed out on thebottom and is preventing me from getting the head off or what. I have hit it with a rubber mallet and have a pry bar wrapped in paper towels inserted in the intake port trying to yank on it, but the darn thing wont budge. And yes, I have removed the two head to front cover bolts. Does anyone have any helpful advice? 
 

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Did you get the two small ones in front, to the front cover?

The bolt that spins probably has a ring of rust and/or sealant that won't let the wide threads past (edit - actually it's probably stuck on the  hole in the head gasket)..  You can clean it off later but if the bolt just spins then the threads aren't holding the head down.  Probably not the problem.

The head gasket can be sticky.  I hope that screwdriver or prybar isn't stuck between the head and block.  That would be bad.

Edited by Zed Head
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I just had this adventure last fall.  

The end result was slowly using a pry bar between the lip of the head and part of the block where the PCV tube come out. I also used plastic wedges when I started to get separation.

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Use  several, maybe made of wood or larger in diameter, to spread the load.  One small prybar focused on small contact point is what will cause damage.  Wrap a rag around the blade of the bar if you don't have any old shovel handles or water pipes.  You should be worried.

Has it separated at all?  Any gaps?

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Wow, what a process. No it hasn't moved at all. I'll give that a try, I have a few pry bars maybe try to find some plastic wedges.  Guess I shouldve searched first thats a good post gave me a few things to try

9 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

I just had this adventure last fall.  

The end result was slowly using a pry bar between the lip of the head and part of the block where the PCV tube come out. I also used plastic wedges when I started to get separation.

 

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I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free.  Easier with the engine out of the car.

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5 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free.  Easier with the engine out of the car.

If you could find those over hangs, use a piece of wood or pipe pointed down and put a jack under it.  Put a little pressure on there then come back later and check it, then if it's not broken free more pressure.

My '77 was a PITA but a '72 just lifted right off???

Start at the back, the head gasket won't be as squished down.

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Have thought of installing the exhaust manifold back on, then slide a large breaker bar between the head and the exhaust manifold. With all the surface area of the manifold on, I would think it should be safe to apply some pressure from the top pulling towards the passenger side.  I would make sure the bolts are pretty snug to keep from bending them. 

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Alright, got the head off tonight. 

Ended up putting the hoist on it and having my girlfriend stand on the back of the hoist with me. After a few tries it popped off. :beer:

The bolt that kept spinning I hit with pb blaster and got out with a punch. But the bolt I snapped off in the block I couldn't get out with freeze off and vice grips. Probably gonna have to have someone weld a nut on it. 

Thanks everyone for the advice! 

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For future reference. When I ran into this problem many years ago, I was told to set the engine so both #1 and #6 pistons were down and then stuff as much small diameter rope into #1 & #6 cylinders then hand turn the engine with the crank bolt. I had tried all the ways mentioned, but this was the one that got it off.

 

Sent from my K88 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

 

 

 

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