240z dashboard vin tag

[Namerow]

I may be difficult to replicate one of these tags to OE standards...

• The plate itself is made from stamped-out piece of aluminum sheet
• The black top coat has a satin-ish semi-gloss appearance, with a barely noticable top-to-bottom 'grain'
• The 'HLS30' characters were produced by leaving the shiny top surface of the aluminum plate stock exposed.  The characters have no 'lip' around their edges (i.e. the entire top surface feels smooth), so the black overcoat must be just mil's thick.  Masking and painting won't replicate this.  I think the overall process used originally would have consisted of some kind of silkscreening.  Maybe somebody else with experience in a print or photography shop knows better.
• The five (or six) digit VIN numerals were produced by the die punch cutting through the black top surface of the plate and penetrating into the underlying aluminum.  There doesn't appear to have been any paint used to highlight the 'trench'.  Once again, what you see is the exposed aluminum of the underlying plate stock.
• You'll need to find a metric number punch set with the correct font style (?) and the correct size (seems to be 7mm x 4mm).

It sounds to me like Mike at Banzai has priced this out quite fairly at $450 (to do it right).  If that's too steep for your budget, maybe you could just use the VIN tag that Grannyknot has sent you.  Given the car's salvage-title history, it would seem to be mainly just for show (although your local constabulary may not share this view).  The VIN that's stamped into the firewall is the definitive identifier of the vehicle and it should be backed up by the number stamped into the plate in the engine bay.

[hatepotholez]

5 hours ago, Namerow said:

I may be difficult to replicate one of these tags to OE standards...

• The plate itself is made from stamped-out piece of aluminum sheet
• The black top coat has a satin-ish semi-gloss appearance, with a barely noticable top-to-bottom 'grain'
• The 'HLS30' characters were produced by leaving the shiny top surface of the aluminum plate stock exposed.  The characters have no 'lip' around their edges (i.e. the entire top surface feels smooth), so the black overcoat must be just mil's thick.  Masking and painting won't replicate this.  I think the overall process used originally would have consisted of some kind of silkscreening.  Maybe somebody else with experience in a print or photography shop knows better.
• The five (or six) digit VIN numerals were produced by the die punch cutting through the black top surface of the plate and penetrating into the underlying aluminum.  There doesn't appear to have been any paint used to highlight the 'trench'.  Once again, what you see is the exposed aluminum of the underlying plate stock.
• You'll need to find a metric number punch set with the correct font style (?) and the correct size (seems to be 7mm x 4mm).

It sounds to me like Mike at Banzai has priced this out quite fairly at $450 (to do it right).  If that's too steep for your budget, maybe you could just use the VIN tag that Grannyknot has sent you.  Given the car's salvage-title history, it would seem to be mainly just for show (although your local constabulary may not share this view).  The VIN that's stamped into the firewall is the definitive identifier of the vehicle and it should be backed up by the number stamped into the plate in the engine bay.

I'm still in the process in developing this vin tag. The "HLS-30" is not exposed aluminium, it looks to be a silver paint similar to a silver sharpie. I purchased the aluminum plate, I have a similar punch set I'm just trying to duplicate the HLS-30. My buddy will powder coat the plate to a semi-gloss. I will then go to a decal shop and ask for an exact copy, place it over the aluminum plate use the punch set and clearcoat the whole plate to give it the smoothness. 

I haven't been in a rush to get this done as I'm focused on the carbs and driveability also as noted before, this isn't mandatory to have as the car is titled in my name and has plates/insurance I just prefer to have it.

 

 

[siteunseen]

Mine are white paint I'm pretty sure.

[cascubadude]

Thanks for the replies guys.

@hatepotholez I was thinking anodizing for the plate, but powder coating would be easier.  Let me know how you make out.

In CA if you get pulled over with no dash VIN plate that = no car anymore.  Like many things it is up to the officer that pulled you over, but I have heard of it happening.

For me I want to get as close to the original as possible since I am probably going to at some point do a full restoration on my Z since I have #214.  My salvage title does hurt the value by 20 to 40 percent (probably closer to the 20% side given the low vin), but that isn't a huge concern for me.  Since it has been in the family for over 30 years that is where it is going to stay so value is relative at that point.

@siteunseen I think the style of the tag has to do with the year of the car.  The tag hatepotholez has is from a low vin car which is what I need to replicate.  You can see the numbers on your tag are even a different style.  The 2 on your tag does not have the "tail" like on the tag hatepotholez has.  I really appreciate the pic though for comparison.

@Namerow  I was not aware anyone quoted replicating these tags before.  I must have missed that but I will certainly look into it.

 

Thanks again guys.  The info is invaluable.

[hatepotholez]

@siteunseen I beleive as @cascubadude mentioned, I received a lower vin plate which doesn't exactly match your stamping and coloring.

 

@cascubadude, I didn't know that's how it works in CA that sucks! 

[grannyknot]

@cascubadude Sorry, that was my only vin tag.

[RS02]

My car was a savage title and someone took my dash vin tag. And they scratched the door jamb plate for some reason. Haven't got around to fix that but this thread is definitely interesting. I'm keeping this for future reference.


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