Hi @Yarb ! Thanks for the link. I like their oil pan and it is cheaper than the Japanese one.

Do you have any feedback?

• What kind of gasket did you use? Cork, rubber? Sealant?

• Does it come with the oil pickup? I didn't see it in the description. Do they provide new bolts?

• How deep is it vs the stock one? Any issues hanging too low to the ground?

• Any clearance issues installing it?

• Leaks?

• What did you do with the oil dipstick?

Thanks!

Edited July 2Jul 2 by darom

Mine was installed by the builder. Looks like a standard Nissan gasket. He used Allen head screws for the install. Didn’t mention anything about a new pickup tube and the dipstick appears to be the same. You can contact AZC and they can answer any questions you have. It’s a very nice pan.

5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Mine was installed by the builder. Looks like a standard Nissan gasket. He used Allen head screws for the install. Didn’t mention anything about a new pickup tube and the dipstick appears to be the same. You can contact AZC and they can answer any questions you have. It’s a very nice pan.

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Almost every (almost... every, actually) oil pan we took off an L-series motor had over torqued bolts that dimpled the top flange of the pan. That of course ruins the sealing surface and the pan is thin soft metal so it's easy to dimple. It's also easy to flatten the dimples and it should be done every time the pan is removed and dimpling is present at the bolt holes.

I've had the best luck doing this (making the sealing surface flat and level) and then using the "Frenchy" Dehoux "pinch permatex gasket maker on the gasket" method: a pea of permatex on your gloved index finger, pinch it with your thumb, pinch the permatex onto the gasket. Repeat until applied to entire gasket. That gives the gasket a very thin coat of gasket maker on each side as you go around the entire gasket. Immediately install the pan with gasket and TORQUE THE PAN BOLTS PROPERLY. (I run the bolts in until barely snug then follow up with the correct torque.) Wait the appropriate amount of time indicated for your gasket maker and then add oil.

My L28ET has the two flange pieces for the back of the oil pan but they don't necessarily prevent over torquing damage to the pan. That's why there are so many bolts - VERY little torque needs to be applied. When done properly - with a flat upper surface - just the gasket is necessary. I use a very thin coat of gasket maker as a precaution. (well, OCD...)

I'm probably the guy that really needs that aluminum, finned oil pan - Arizona, turbo, Arizona, lives in the same town... Couldn't dimple that thing.

You are correct… That pan is thick aluminum and the baffles inside are just amazing. Not sure I will make it to the track. It’s a stage 4 build from Datsun Spirit. Eiji did an amazing job.

I installed the AZC pan, very nice piece. No leaks yet - I used a cork gasket with a few small blobs of black RTV in the areas suggested by the FSM.

It might be in my head, but the engine noise had quietened down since the pan installation.

I do have a question out of curiosity, Why do you choose to use a cork gasket. I am definitely not a resource on gasket types used but I personally have not seen an old cork gasket that they used in the 70’s era on a Datsun. I realize I’m opening myself up to criticism.

Edited 3 hours ago3 hr by Yarb

Yarb, it is the gasket I found at Rockauto. I think it is a cork type. Steve from AZC recommended to use the RightStuff gasket maker. I used it in the past, it seals well, and is a major pain in the neck to deal with if you want to remove stuff. Steve mentions it in his note with his oil pan that the best way to install the oil pan is with the engine out of the car :-) I wish it was my case.

With an oil pan installation, the clearance on the 280z is tight already. The oil pickup on the AZC pan creates an issue trying to install the pan without jacking up the engine to give more room. If I use an RTV like RightStuff, I would swear that stuff all over while trying to install it. It would be a mess.

What I did is to put a thin layer of black permatex onto the AZC pan and glue the cork gasket to it. Give it a few hours before the final installation. Now I can move the oil pan around the oil pickup with all my bolt holes nicely lined up etc. The gasket wouldn't move it I bump it against something. Apply some black permatex in 4 areas the FSM talks about, and you are all set.

I don't think it would matter if it was a cork type gasket or a rubber one. I just need some material to seal the oil pan against the engine. I am sure some other guys have a different way to deal with it.

If my engine was out of the car, flipped over, I would be happy to lay a nice bead of the RightStuff and carefully place the AZC oil pan on top of it. I am sure there would be no leaks since this stuff truly seals.

I appreciate the explanation and truly feel your pain doing this in the vehicle.