Hi @Yarb ! Thanks for the link. I like their oil pan and it is cheaper than the Japanese one.

Do you have any feedback?

• What kind of gasket did you use? Cork, rubber? Sealant?

• Does it come with the oil pickup? I didn't see it in the description. Do they provide new bolts?

• How deep is it vs the stock one? Any issues hanging too low to the ground?

• Any clearance issues installing it?

• Leaks?

• What did you do with the oil dipstick?

Thanks!

Edited July 2Jul 2 by darom

Mine was installed by the builder. Looks like a standard Nissan gasket. He used Allen head screws for the install. Didn’t mention anything about a new pickup tube and the dipstick appears to be the same. You can contact AZC and they can answer any questions you have. It’s a very nice pan.

5 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Mine was installed by the builder. Looks like a standard Nissan gasket. He used Allen head screws for the install. Didn’t mention anything about a new pickup tube and the dipstick appears to be the same. You can contact AZC and they can answer any questions you have. It’s a very nice pan.

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Almost every (almost... every, actually) oil pan we took off an L-series motor had over torqued bolts that dimpled the top flange of the pan. That of course ruins the sealing surface and the pan is thin soft metal so it's easy to dimple. It's also easy to flatten the dimples and it should be done every time the pan is removed and dimpling is present at the bolt holes.

I've had the best luck doing this (making the sealing surface flat and level) and then using the "Frenchy" Dehoux "pinch permatex gasket maker on the gasket" method: a pea of permatex on your gloved index finger, pinch it with your thumb, pinch the permatex onto the gasket. Repeat until applied to entire gasket. That gives the gasket a very thin coat of gasket maker on each side as you go around the entire gasket. Immediately install the pan with gasket and TORQUE THE PAN BOLTS PROPERLY. (I run the bolts in until barely snug then follow up with the correct torque.) Wait the appropriate amount of time indicated for your gasket maker and then add oil.

My L28ET has the two flange pieces for the back of the oil pan but they don't necessarily prevent over torquing damage to the pan. That's why there are so many bolts - VERY little torque needs to be applied. When done properly - with a flat upper surface - just the gasket is necessary. I use a very thin coat of gasket maker as a precaution. (well, OCD...)

I'm probably the guy that really needs that aluminum, finned oil pan - Arizona, turbo, Arizona, lives in the same town... Couldn't dimple that thing.

You are correct… That pan is thick aluminum and the baffles inside are just amazing. Not sure I will make it to the track. It’s a stage 4 build from Datsun Spirit. Eiji did an amazing job.