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wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

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Almost two months and a few thousand dollars later, I am seeing the light at the end of the garage tunnel.... A few more sheets to go up on the ceiling, a little more vent work and a coat of paint and the interior shell will be done! After that, I will set up a couple benches and a shelving system and install the overhead fluorescents and the car project can finally begin!!!! whew....

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Mark, You are a hardcore hobbiest that for sure. I admire your dedication and enthusiasm.

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Inherited a set of gently used Dapper HID headlights from another member that went another route! Lucky me! Add those to the parts shelf....

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WorkBench is in. Power supply and paper masking roll set up.

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Moved the car outside to clean up under it...

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Still a lot to do and clean up!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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Now you got me curious. What is that gadget left of the window? That down to the left of the "Dad's garage" sign. Cool sign btw.

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The controls you see are for the sprinkler system. Top one is the remote rain gauge. They were already in when I bought the place so I had to leave them where they are. There is also a thermostat for the furnace and then the power panel. Below that is the 240v welding circuit.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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The teardown begins... the first things to go are the ugly 5mph bumpers!

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Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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The bumper shocks will be the mount points for the rotisserie.

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I don't think the bumper shocks and mounts are designed for that vector.  A lot of weight hanging from a pretty long lever arm.  Might work, but if it doesn't you'll be very disappointed.

Edited by Zed Head

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I would have used the shock mounting holes instead of the shocks, but a stripped chassis is not very heavy

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I agree. The stripped chassis is easily supported by the shocks. I did not make the rotisserie and it worked perfectly fine on the car in the video. Couple that with the fact the shocks will be discarded once the build progresses in favour of the replica 240 bumpers.

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Pulled the taillights and some interior panels from the hatch area. I am totally blown away that there is no rust and almost pristine spare tire area.... Pics to come. I am thinking that this area will need little more than a wipe down for restoration... I will probably respray the original colour in places, but I was expecting a lot worse...

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Took the spare intake in to work for some rough hacking and smoothing. Getting it ready for the eventual pallnet fuel rail.

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Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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Little more progress.

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Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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Small steps. Took apart the front grill area. Most of the screws were seized. Had to drill them out.

Removed the hood, muffler and small engine parts. Now just have to detach the driveshaft... Looks kinda cramped in there!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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it is - you have to rotate the propeller shaft to get the u-joint to open up for a wrench. pita, but doable.

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Mark, try using some visegrips on the screw heads if the slots strip out. Sounds like you're having a good time!

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Mark, try using some visegrips on the screw heads if the slots strip out. Sounds like you're having a good time!

I tried that on the ones that had visible head room. Most were inset so it was drill them or nothing. Drilling worked fine and was not too bad, just time consuming. I assumed there would be a lot of stripped and rusted bolts. The PO had also replaced a lot of factory bolts with wood screws etc....! Scary.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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it is - you have to rotate the propeller shaft to get the u-joint to open up for a wrench. pita, but doable.

I was hoping I could get an impact in there with a u-joint socket... Oh well. Might need to jack the back end up a little higher too. I don't like working with the jackstands maxed out. Luckily I have lots of scrap wood to build some platforms out of. Thanks! :tup:

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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One disappointment was one of the front indicators was corroded badly on the inside. The entire reflector surface was a rusted crumbling mess. I will need to source a new one of those. Or switch to 240 indicator lights...

I still like the look of the 280 ones though.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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One disappointment was one of the front indicators was corroded badly on the inside. The entire reflector surface was a rusted crumbling mess. I will need to source a new one of those. Or switch to 240 indicator lights...

I still like the look of the 280 ones though.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

I had the samd problem with mine I repaired the reflector section in a thread on this forum. If you can"t find a good set or repair yours pm me.

Chas

Edit: link added http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47973-280z-front-turn-signal-refresh/

Edited by EuroDat

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Small progress again with the intake. Tapped in new ports for vacuum on the back of the manifold. Added a port for the brake booster under the manifold to come out above the heat shield. Still need to get the welding done!

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Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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I had the samd problem with mine I repaired the reflector section in a thread on this forum. If you can"t find a good set or repair yours pm me.

Chas

Edit: link added http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47973-280z-front-turn-signal-refresh/

Thanks for the link Chas! I will check the reflector again. I think ALL the metal is gone though.... Just the plastic left.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

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