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1972 Float Adjustment ...


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15 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

Your explanation is as clear as water. Best in all. Ill use a 9/16 drill bit. 

I don't know how accurate a drill bit will be as the bit will straddle the cover from edge to edge. Your measurement is supposed to be from the bottom of the inside cover-not the edges as they are lower than the inside cover by several millimeters. 9/16" converts to 0.5625 so you will be even more out of spec.

(But what the hell do I know I've been trying to get this car on the road for two years)

Edited by 882993md
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21 hours ago, 882993md said:

Hi JALEX:

Here is a simple way that I set the .55" on my float tabs. Make or find something that is .55" that will sit on top of the float. You can use a wooden dowel rod that you cut down and sand it to exactly .55". I happen to have a sanding drum attachment for my Dremel moto-tool that just happens to measure .55".

1. Place your .55" object on top of the float

2. Raise up the float until the .55" object contact the underside of the cover. You are now exactly at .55"

3. Blow on the fuel inlet pipe.

4. If your breath circulates then the float tang is not pushing the pin and you have to adjust it up to push the pin. (i.e. stop fuel flow at .55")

5. If your breath stops and you can't blow that is good. HOWEVER you must ensure float tang is not bent too far up (i.e. pushing the pin to far in at .55"). You want your breath (fuel) to stop at exactly .55".

6. All of this is performed with the float right side up-exactly like it would be when installed on your carb. Forget the upside down stuff.

7. You also need to fix your float tab angle first. I haven't adjusted my rear carb. float tab yet and it is like a ramp. It should be like a speed bump 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was thinking my explaing wasn't too good, you know being from Alabama and all, but you nailed it! :D

That's exactly what I did.  I found a carpenter's pencil that was .55" wide but those Dremel sanding barrels worked great for you.  Congratulations!  

EDIT: I'm taking credit for good old common sense, sorry.  I got excited.

Edited by siteunseen
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I have sync my carburetors and still have a stumbling problem. I am beginning the process of completely setting up the balance and fuel mixture. I first will set the needles and the float levels. Then the mixture. I have purchased a couple of items to help with the process. The "Float Sync"  setup and I have a color tune tool on order. I removed the air cleaner today and installed the "Float Sync" tubes. I have attached photos of what I have discovered.about my float levels. The "Foat Sync" instruction indicate that the optimum fuel level is 14mm above the base of the "Float Sync" tool. See photos. The front carburetor looks to be much lower than the rear and the rear is just a bit shy of 14mm. I will attempt to adjust and post more photos. I hope this works and that it will help others work through the process as I am doing.

 

front dia.jpg

Rear  dia.jpg

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4 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

The weird thing is that i found both pistons black when i pulled them out. Could this be due to bad calibration of the .55 inch gap?

It just means they haven't been cleaned in a long time. They should probably be cleaned every year or two. Hit them with a couple good blasts of carb cleaner, wipe them off with a shop towel, and then give them one more blast. Same with the inside of the domes. Don't drop them or get them dirty before reinstalling. Don't set them down so the needle could get bent. It's a good idea to wear a gloves, goggles, and P-95 mask when you're using carb cleaner. When you're done setting the floats and tuning the carbs maybe blast the linkage with carb cleaner and finish with some lithium spray grease.

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17 minutes ago, NVZEE said:

So a mechanic was “trying” to tune the carbs and the pistons looked like this? Maybe I’ll butt out now ...

What happened since they were rebuilt by ZTherapy?  Probably messed with to fix all of those other problems?

 

 

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