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Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z


TomoHawk

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It sounds like a reason to machine an alloy base block, and get out the rubber molding supplies to fashion a cover- with a Z-logo of course!

Have you guys seen the Rock Auto TV commercials?

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xeiyZWGgoQ4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Edited by TomoHawk
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Tomo, as you know, my Z is a '78. I did an HEI retrofit. I mounted the module where the connection box is located for the distributor pickup. I disconnected, removed, boxed, and stored the OEM IM. (It still works, but not very well.) The system works well. I just bought a cheapie, plain vanilla HEI module ($11?) and have had no issues with it. I'm not a high revver, but the module certainly hasn't given me any problems up to maybe 5k, which is about as far as I ever rev the engine. I'm pretty sure I wired it as you diagrammed. No ballast resistor, MSD flamethrower II coil. I mounted it to a power transistor heat sink and made sure I had a really good ground (important). It doesn't look stock, but it doesn't look too bad either. Someday I might give the module its own box, but for now it's just hanging on the underside of the mounted heat sink with the wires clipped on. ;)

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It sounds like a reason to machine an alloy base block, and get out the rubber molding supplies to fashion a cover- with a Z-logo of course!

What? You mean way over-engineer a solution and spend ten times what normal people would consider a "reasonable" amount of time on it? In the end, it works great and looks cool, but it took way too much labor to make and nobody in their right mind would ever pay what it should really cost.

Now you've got my attention!!

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What cost?

Maybe that I just happen to have something in the scrap metal box, and a supply of rubber molding stuff from a ceramics project?

The module needs to have a good heatsink. I might even have a big finned one like Sarah's.

Too much labor? Just about any Z is better than watching the garbage on TV in the evenings, even paying bills.

Remeber that it's THE classic sportscar, not just something ordinary from Detroit. :)

Edited by TomoHawk
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FWIW, I used one of those modules on a 510 I owned. I actually got the module from the junkyard and used it to convert the later model distributor for use on my last 510. My intent was to replace the used module with a new one after I got it all set up. I never did. It worked fine for the 5+ years I owned that car.

Edited by sblake01
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I think the electronics in those modules is pretty generic. I remember reading a Motorola linear parts manual that actually gave the specs of the detail part. Applications listed were auto ignition, obviously. Moto makes a lot of this stuff for oems. So I think many of the mfgs just used that small piece of silicon inside their own package. I've used the Nissan and a GM version with no apparent difference. I think that I will move mine off the dizzy and put a heat sink on it. That's a pretty hot location on that dizzy that must lead to higher failure rates. I have had the Nissan fail in the typical manner intermittent. Interestingly, the symptoms are similar to that experienced when the bearing at the bottom of the dizzy gets worn. Totally different thing, but similar symptoms.

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Just in case you're wondering where the module is located and why it has that shape, it's inside the distrubutor.

post-2169-14150817835079_thumb.jpg

Since the module is attached to the distributors base plate, it makes you wonder why we're making a big thing about heatsinks? A simple sheet metal base on the fender by the coil should give the module enough cooling air. IMO, protecting it from water would be more important.

Edited by TomoHawk
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