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Question on this car


oskidunker1

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220638771421&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123

The car is about 60 miles from where I live.I bid on it but was out bid.Any idea what this might go for? Is this a car you guys would reccommend?

Also he is requiring a wire transfer as the only method of payment. I feel a bit uneasy about this.Has anyone done this and what are the risks> i.e you wire the money and then go to pick up the car and it is not there.

Edited by oskidunker1
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I think this car will go for 7k (at least). That is a really nice car. Is there rust or, just chip on bottom of FR quarter panel?

I am sure you could arrange another form of payment (cash?) since you are within a short driving distance.

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Patience grasshopper! 60 miles away, I would be on my way to inspect that car. I am a little suspect on the car - the rot or ? on the front fender, sloppy mask job on the vin plate. If you win the car, go with cash or bank check(better if seller accepts that). I cant see any reason for wiring a payment on a car so close!

Edit: I missed where the seller stated that the paint was done awhile ago and that there was some rust spots poking through. Seems like an honest dude. Contact him and see what he has to say. That is a very nice car from what I can see!

Edited by oldhemi
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I think this car will go for 7k (at least). That is a really nice car. Is there rust or, just chip on bottom of FR quarter panel?

I am sure you could arrange another form of payment (cash?) since you are within a short driving distance.

Think that might be optimistic...if restored less than 7k miles ago, how do you get rust that quickly on the fender...

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Wire transfers are just another form of "Irrevocable" payments. i.e. you literally deposit money into their account.

The pictures show a bit of photo manipulation. Pixelation of the colors may be due to a cheap camera, or low resolution, but may be due to enlarging a small, low grade photo with a program that can't handle colors well.

The rust on the lower fender is due to the cowl drain going to that area. The drain tube should be extended OUT of the car. Repairing that will probably involve some metal cutting and some filler, which means the fender will have to be repainted.

The current dash in the car IS the one with the dash cap. The one in the box appears original, but hard to say from the angle of the picture.

The data plate in the engine compartment is missing.

Looks like they addressed a LOT of things, and it looks very promising from the photos given. Won't go into price, as I'm not looking to buy or kibbits it's value.

I agree that you should arrange a good look/see. It might be a slightly flawed (fender, dash, other items) gem in the rough, or a true Cinderella story.

2¢

E

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Come on now, its only 60 miles away. Take a few hours out of your day, go look it over and decide for yourself what the true condition of the car is. We certainly can't make a determination with any degree of certainty by looking at pictures on a monitor. Some people have a knack for making cars appear better in a photo than they actually are. Forget about wire transfers, that's not an issue if you do buy and pick the car up in person.

Edited by geezer
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From someone who bought a car he found on ebay after it didn't sell take a look. If I bid what I thought it was worth I would have been taken. I talked the price down $3000 and got what I felt was a fair price. Go look at the car figure a good price and place a bid. More than likely you will get it, ask the sell if you can pick it up within 5 days with money in hand. I'd use travelers checks if you can they have guaranteed funds, that he can cash at any bank, and they are not reimbursable without signing them over, a lot safer than cash. Money orders are no safer than cash. So if he states money order or cash only just pay cash and watch your back.

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E, the R/F strut data plate is there. I got deceived the same way; the earlier photo just didn't go far enough down. One of

the last photos spefically showed that plate, and one or two

photos later we saw it was numbers matching by a photo of the

engine casting showing L24-085210.

All in all it looks like a nice, legitimate car. The owner didn't

seem to be hiding anything, and I see a stack of receipts to

verify what work had been done. If the car were not 3000 miles

away, I might take a look at it myself.

Edited by Kathy & Rick
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Ok, so the car was listed on an eBay classified ad for $11,500 the first time it was on eBay with this seller. The second time it was an auction bid up to $9,600, which shows as sold. In the current listing, he says it is relisted due to a non-paying bidder, however he has not left negative feedback for said non-paying bidder. Sometimes, this can mean that the seller used a second account, or had a buddy, bid up the auction and ended up winning it by mistake. Not sure if it applies here, could just be that the seller is afraid to leave a negative as he doesn't want a negative from the non-paying bidder. However I would be more cautious trying to purchase this car via eBay.

If you can go look at it, and bring cash or a cashiers check, it might be worth checking out.

Edited by DougN
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Hi

First I agree with everyone that the car has to be physically inspected - and very closely at that.

Looking at the pictures - I would have serious doubts about the quality of the paint and body work done -especially when you see the the lower fender bubbling up already. That is something you simply have to go look at in person. If the car really needs to have it's paint and body work redone to bring it up to reasonable standards for a Classic Car... then the value of the car is cut at least in half.

For the sake of discussion - lets say that the paint and body work were actually first class - then in that case, looking at all the other work that has been done -- if the car drove out well - - around here it would be an easy $10K to $12K as it sits.

On the other hand - if you have to take it all apart again to have the paint and body redone properly - or if you just looking for a Z to drive and enjoy that is simply "presentable".. then around here it is a $6K to $8K example. In California - ???? High unemployment rates, bleak outlook.. you might well find far better for the same money. Although I agree that it looks like a pretty nice Z.

You don't have to take cash - if the man will accept a wire transfer just do that. All you have to do is talk to an officer or the head teller at your bank before you leave. Tell them what your seller is requiring and ask if you can call them directly, after you have inspected the car and after you have decided to buy it. They will be more than willing to work with you - if they aren't - - take you money somewhere else.

Once you get there and decide to buy the car - you go with the seller to his bank, get his bank's routing number and his account number - then call your banker, provide the information and ask them to wire the money at that point. Usually it takes no more than a hour or two... There is nothing hard nor complicated about it.

Make sure you get a Bill Of Sale marked as Paid In Full - signed by the seller, in addition to the title. As you will not have a document of payment like you would with a check. The bill of sale should contain the VIN, the color and mileage of the car.. or a statement that the mileage is unknown.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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As if often the case with cars of this type and this condition the seller realizes it will probably only appeal to someone that doesn't want to spend countless hours and $$$ on a full blown restoration. So having said that decide how much you will spend, go take a look at the car, make the guy an offer. No one ever has a problem with cash so if it were me I would have it in hand. If this is what YOU want then no price speculated on in this forum will change your mind. Any car like this will not come flawless if it were the person would not sell it as it would have taken a substantial amount og time and $$$$ to get it flawless. You only live once, why not live with a 240Z

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I purchased my last Z off of Craigslist. The three before that I bought off Ebay.

Go look at the car. It looks like a nice driver. You can research the value on line from a variety of resources.

Around here a 240z in the condition it appears to be in would go for between $8K to $10K.

I have no fear of buying a car from a on line site but before the cash trades hands I WILL look it over in person and I will already know the most common defects to look for.

If you want the car, I hope it's as nice as it looks and you get it.

I'm thinking about buying another 300zx.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/1852487971.html

Edited by ensapp
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No undercarriage shots and rust through on paint - if I were you, I would have to see it in person.

Looks really nice otherwise (ignoring the torn seat, non stock S/W and dashcap, but I am a sucker for the colour and fresh paint.

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