Rear brake problem and stiffness of pedal

[Reverend]

Well there was fluid on the rear..so the problem must be either on master vac or master cylinder?

[Reverend]

I removed the master cyl.

1. It was hard or even impossible to push pedal when on place but after removing it moved normally and squirted fluid. Is it possible that the master cyl is somehow broken or what is jamming it?

edit.

It only squirts fluid from front brake cylinder. Only drops falling from rear side. Interiors and rubbers were in good condition.

Edited May 24, 2010 by Reverend

[Reverend]

I've installed master cyl repair set (replaces all the rubbers) but i couldnt open the check valves as they were so stuck that i'd have to break the cylinder to get them opened.

Pedal is not that stiff (maybe 20% less) but it still doesn't feel right. We bleeded thoroughly but the rear brakes seem to be inoperable...

[lbpdz]

looks like the "quick & easy" stuff has come to the end of the road - Sorry.

Might want to pick up a FSM and work your way from the back to the front, triple checking everything. Also its a good excuse to upgrade to the braided steel hoses.

Front's will never feel right until you get the rears dialed in. I get the adjusters on the drums close, then use the self adjusting mechanisim. Then bleed the fronts.

Napa and I am sure another load of places will have new bleeders for you, if you have to really bugger yours up.. Take your time and remember to use NEW brake fluid that you have just opened that day.

Good luck and let us know how it all works out. Gentle heat and/or vice grips might help in getting the old bleeders out.

Does the "E-brake" hold at all?

Edited May 31, 2010 by lbpdz

[Reverend]

Recently i've been focusing thousand other things and brakes wasn't one of them. But i do tried to remove the drums and it was impossible (with my tools and expertise). I did manage to free shoes by pressing with screwdriver from the hole in drum. Wheels do spin a little better now but brake pedal is still stiff as h***. Could it be brake booster/master vac that is busted? How can you tell that? More the less how can you repair if it's busted.

Lot of questions, i know and yes i have FSM but i just like to hear this from real Z-experts.

Edit: brakes feel normal when bleed nipple open, that overrules the master vac, at least i think so.

Edited June 30, 2010 by Reverend

[Powerglide]

At least he spelled Brakes properly...didn't call them BREAKS.

[Free280Z]

I think that if where me I would take a rear drum and have a buddy push the brake pedal SLOWLY AND NOT TO FAR, to verify that the wheel cylinder(s) where working. If they move, great, then its one of the other things. If not fix that first.

[Reverend]

At least he spelled Brakes properly...didn't call them BREAKS.

What might you mean by that? :ogre:

Rear wheel cylinders were rusted and i couldn't get them open with torch. New cylinders are on the way. Hope that solves the problem