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Zedyone_kenobi

Front end 'spook' options..

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Have you already test fitted it all to the car? You'll want to have the spook mounting holes drilled before paint. You don't want to drill through the fresh paint.

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DOH, that is a really good idea...I have not got that far yet.. I was sort of just assuming it would all fit...

Body work pro, I am not.

Great advice Arne.

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UPDATE:

Today, with my relatives out of town and my little son sleeping, I managed to do some quick wrenching on the Z. I Managed to get the bumper off and the spoiler. It was, as expected easy. The tube socks on the bumper was a great idea. I forget who gave me that advice, but thanks VERY much! Now that I have all the front parts off, I am going to mix up a batch of POR-15 and hit a few minor blemishes I found that I have no intention on leaving alone. May as well, strike when the cars pants are down! :)

Next the new valances go on and then its time to mount my new spook. Wow, its been a long road. Here is my progress...

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IF all this goes as well as I think it will, I may be selling my air dam.

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If you are not thinking of it already - Coat the inside of the bumper with POR-15 while your at it...These bumpers rust from the inside out..

Mask the edges off, and cover the entire exterior chrome!

Shoot the interior of the bumper with some aluminum paint to cover the POR-15, just as the POR-15 gets tacky to the touch..

If there is already some surface rust on the inside of the bumper - just knock it down with some sandpaper and blow it out, then wipe it down with some lacquer thinner..

FWIW,

Carl B.

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THanks! That is great info! My bumper is in really great condition, but a on ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold right!

Again, I really want to say I appreciate all the help this site has given me.

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One question, since I was in a rush, I did not have time to follow Arne's advice to do a trial fit and drill out the spook prior to paint. I sort of mocked it up, but realized there is no template for how the spook should be mounted. How far up or how far back should I mount it?

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Just use fresh and good quality Masking Tape - over the paint where you intend to drill though. Use a sharp center-punch to start and hold the drill bit in the correct place.

The BRE Spook bolts to the bottom of the Radiator Core Support - with three bolts that go into the existing captive nuts. Look at the underside of the core support and you should see them...

If you look closely at the Spook - it should have three little circles scribed in the fiberglass - where the Spook overlaps the bottom of the radiator core support..

If the body shop sanded and then painted the Spook - you may not be able to find the scribed circles that show you where the bolts should go though...

See BRE's mounting instructions...

FWIW,

Carl B.

post-3609-1415080693547_thumb.jpg

post-3609-14150806935863_thumb.jpg

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Just use fresh and good quality Masking Tape - over the paint where you intend to drill though. Use a sharp center-punch to start and hold the drill bit in the correct place.

The BRE Spook bolts to the bottom of the Radiator Core Support - with three bolts that go into the existing captive nuts. Look at the underside of the core support and you should see them...

If you look closely at the Spook - it should have three little circles scribed in the fiberglass - where the Spook overlaps the bottom of the radiator core support..

If the body shop sanded and then painted the Spook - you may not be able to find the scribed circles that show you where the bolts should go though...

See BRE's mounting instructions...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Good comments, and the 35+ year old instructions are great to see - now. But my recent experience is that the instructions may not be much help.
The BRE Spook bolts to the bottom of the Radiator Core Support - with three bolts that go into the existing captive nuts. Look at the underside of the core support and you should see them...
Correct in theory, but not always so in practice. I tried hard to figure how to use those three core support holes, but could not get there from here. In my car's case, the front valance is too much lower than the core support. The spook has a step molded in it to accommodate the difference, but the difference in my car is much greater than the step in the spook allows. When I mounted my spook to the valance, the step area is at least 1/4" below the core support.

My '71 has never been hit up front, and all the parts there are original. So all I can assume is that the molds have settled/warped/changed over the ensuing 35+ years, or that there are significant production variances between cars, and I caught the far extreme. Or perhaps a combination of the two.

In any case, get a friend and carefully test fit the spook to your particular car before drilling any holes.

If you look closely at the Spook - it should have three little circles scribed in the fiberglass - where the Spook overlaps the bottom of the radiator core support..
Maybe. I bought my spook from CDM about 2 years ago, it came with no hardware and no instructions. It also did NOT have the hole guides scribed in. There was no indication at all of how many holes to use, or where said holes should be located. I can only assume (since CDM is supposed to have/use the original molds) that the mold has been re-worked and re-polished over the years and no longer has the scribe-marks. So you may have to wing it a bit on where to drill. Measure and fit several times....

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Concur Arne.

I just went and looked where my holes should be in my cross member. I did find two through holes, and one with a nut plate in back, but nothing regular.

Arne, did you say you only bolted yours up to your lower valance panels, vs the radiator lower support. I have a little while to figure this out, as I have some POR work to do, but I am hoping by next weekend I can be bolting things back up.

Plus I have the little dilemma of not having half the bolts I need. THe nut plates on the center valance and where the left and left and right valance attach to the bezel are a smaller hole than the nut plates I have going into the fender. So I need to figure out what size they are and pick up about 12. Then once I get all the valances mounted rigid, I can fit the spook. I have about a dozen soft jaws for when I make furniture I can use to hold it while I measure.

I certainly appreciate your help.

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Yes, mine is currently attached only to the valance itself, not the core support. I still fiddle with that when I remove the spook periodically (bug cleaning and waxing). Still can't say that I have finalized mine quite yet.

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Hi Arne:

hummmm..... When I was at Les's shop around 1999 - he had just begun to reproduce the Spooks.. I bought four of them because I was so happy to get high quality reproductions, rather than having to rebuild mine for the fifth or sixth time. Plus I knew some of the guys around here would want or need one sooner or later, and Les needed to move a few to pay for the initial costs of startup..

Anyway - I still had one on the shelf. I went out and took a look and sure enough the circles that indicate where to drill for the core support are clearly present. I'll see if I can get a clear picture tomorrow with some indirect sunlight. {hard to get clear picture of an all shinny black surface with a flash}.

Even in 71, in order to get that first couple of bolts threaded into the captive nuts - one had to push up with one's right hand with a lot of pressure - and start the bolt on its way in with your left hand. Just holding the Spook in place - it is about 0.5" of more below the core support. As it is flexed up and the three bolts are tightened down - it spreads out to the sides a bit as well.

Not knowing much about the design of fiberglass structures, I don't know if this pre-stress is intentional or not. I do know that the original held up on my Z without showing any stress cracks etc - at least until I destroyed it on parking stops..

Like I said - that was around 99 - so things might have changed since then..

FWIW,

Carl B

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You bring up an interesting point Carl, start from the center first, like applying vinyl decals, and work your way to the corners. Good point, and probably worth highlighting.

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Hi Arne:

hummmm..... When I was at Les's shop around 1999 - he had just begun to reproduce the Spooks.. I bought four of them because I was so happy to get high quality reproductions, rather than having to rebuild mine for the fifth or sixth time. Plus I knew some of the guys around here would want or need one sooner or later, and Les needed to move a few to pay for the initial costs of startup..

Anyway - I still had one on the shelf. I went out and took a look and sure enough the circles that indicate where to drill for the core support are clearly present. I'll see if I can get a clear picture tomorrow with some indirect sunlight. {hard to get clear picture of an all shinny black surface with a flash}.

Even in 71, in order to get that first couple of bolts threaded into the captive nuts - one had to push up with one's right hand with a lot of pressure - and start the bolt on its way in with your left hand. Just holding the Spook in place - it is about 0.5" of more below the core support. As it is flexed up and the three bolts are tightened down - it spreads out to the sides a bit as well.

Not knowing much about the design of fiberglass structures, I don't know if this pre-stress is intentional or not. I do know that the original held up on my Z without showing any stress cracks etc - at least until I destroyed it on parking stops..

Like I said - that was around 99 - so things might have changed since then..

Definitely no circles on mine, the black gel-coat was beautifully smooth in the mounting area.

The prestress bit is good to know, would have been even better to know when I first installed it, I'd have tried a bit harder to do it. The gap you describe sounds right to me, which is reassuring. At least I know mine is normal.

I'll probably take a stab at using the core support holes again, with this new info. My fear is that I may have mounted mine a touch too far forward now.

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I hope it's not too late, you may have other options than the Spook ;)

fred2.jpg

It's a JDM spoiler from RS-Start

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I hope it's not too late, you may have other options than the Spook ;)

fred2.jpg

It's a JDM spoiler from RS-Start

Caen, where did you get it and what did you pay?

Chris

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I bought it from RS-START in Japan and had it shipped to me by a friend over there. The expensive part was the shipping. Can't remember how much it was 18 month ago

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Hmmm. just had a look at there homepage and i cant find it, it might be that funny google translation that make it had for me.

Please see if you can remember, i really like it.

Chris

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Is this it? http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.rsstart.com/&ei=VSH_Sc-ROpi8swOXqIXWAQ&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3DRS-Start%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1G1GGLQ_ENUS326%26sa%3DG

It guess it won't link directly to the correct page, but go to "Fairlady Z S30 Parts", then Fair Lady S30, S31FRP Parts"

It looks like it is 26,250 yen.

-Mike

Edited by Mike B

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Ah, thanks Mike, i didn't know it was called a FURONTOSUPOIRA :stupid:

We must get Caen to make a mold;)

Chris

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Update: The Z is coming back together slowly. I managed to take off early today to get some time with her, and installed the driver lower valance and the center valance. Pics below

Its taking me forever, as I am cleaning all the threads and POR-15 anything that even appears like it has rust on it. My next POR job is inside the bumper as recommended.

One question though. I always thought, the lower center valance was pretty flat. I have the one with the holes and retaining nuts attached to it as 26th Z described earlier.

But it appears to curve more than I thought. Is it possible this is the wrong center valance?

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Arne, when installed how long horizontally is your center valance, as you have a 71 too correct?

Disregard that drop of tranny fluid in the background

I seriously think I have a european center valance, and I am betting its too wide for my car.

If you look at this image posted earlier, you can see the center valance is straight to the corner valances, not curved like mine.

Its also apparent it follows the bumper curve, which this does not appear to do.

attachment.php?attachmentid=28705&d=1236915428

I am getting this sinking feeling I just payed 250 bucks to get a part painted, and its the wrong part.

If this is in fact true, I may have to have a word with my vendor who sold me this as fitting a US built 71

Edited by Zedyone_kenobi

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Don't know how long mine is, but the curve of yours looks right to me, or maybe even a touch flatter than mine. Here's a picture

from prior to paint of mine that shows the curve. Note the joint between the center and the corner piece.

Edit: Oh, I see what you are saying now. I'll have to wait until I get home tonight to measure mine. Since yours has

the holes in it, I figured it was a euro-valance, but I wouldn't have thought that it would be any wider than the US valance.

attachment.php?attachmentid=19701&d=1189911765

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Looks like yours is pulled up too high in the center. Are you sure your center mount bracket is correct and correctly mounted?

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