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Differencial Welding????


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does anyone know what is that you weld in the differencial to make it positive tracion. and can this cause a problem. does anyone have a picture of how it looks were the welds go.i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

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does anyone know what is that you weld in the differencial to make it positive tracion. and can this cause a problem. does anyone have a picture of how it looks were the welds go.i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

If you do decide to go with a solid rear axle, you want to weld the spider gears together. Blake is correct in saying, if you are using this as a street car you will find it a bit of a pain when turning....especially tight turns.

Tom

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i plan on doing it myself. or should i let a experience person do it.

To weld a diff:

1. Clean, clean, clean, clean, and then clean some more.

2. Put two side axles in the diff and apply a little force in opposite directions on each to take up any slack.

3. Turn up the heat and wire feed and tack weld the spider gears to the side gears.

4. Remove the side axles.

5. Finish welding using a lot of filler wire trying to get good penetration and an even buildup of material. You don't want to unbalance the diff by having a lot more weld in one area.

6. Let it air cool and then wire brush everything.

7. Put the diff back in the housing.

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  • 2 months later...

I've had a welded diff for years, and never broken it. I used to break a lot of driveshafts though. carry spares. (I now have a R200 and that doesn't break driveshafts)

From my experience, just welding the gears together is not very strong.

what I do is cut a small piece of steel (maybe 3-4mm thick) that fits in between the planetary gears, and then weld that on on 4 sides. the steel plates brace the gears together and prevent them from turning, so the welds themselves are not carrying all the load. one of them on each side of the diff and you'll never break it.

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Hi Guys,

I have a 3.9 R200 diff in my 260z and it is fitted with a Phantom Grip LSD that I got from the USA. Works like a Detroit Locker in a straight line and a LSD around corners. It's been in the car now for 2 years and works like a charm. Check their website for prices. Regards David.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Nice zombie post Mr Z. Since we're here...

I have a 3.9 R200 diff in my 260z and it is fitted with a Phantom Grip LSD that I got from the USA. Works like a Detroit Locker in a straight line and a LSD around corners. It's been in the car now for 2 years and works like a charm. Check their website for prices. Regards David.

I know this is an old comment, but a phantom grip does not work like a detroit locker. It works like a (weak) limited slip.

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  • 3 months later...

ive honestly been thinking about welding the centre as the price of LSD's are crazy.

my question is this, would it be 'necessary' to have a lsd/locked diff in a 240k with a rb25det? or will an open diff suffice?

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I would not use a welded diff on the street, as it is noisy at low speed and would be scary in the rain.

If you have gone to all the trouble to build a car with an RB etc. I would think that the cost of a LSD would be nothing compared with what you have spent to get to this point.

Get a nice LSD and enjoy the handling benefits.

Ron

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The OBX helical LSD is only $375. It's a Chinese Quaife copy and the guys at hybridz.org have had good luck with them. They did have a lot of assembly mistakes on the early units, so the buyers were forced to take them apart and check to be sure they were put together right. Some had the gearset backwards. I'm not sure if that is still a concern or not.

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