Starting the Car ( Su Carbs)

[beandip]

I am running a gear reduction starter and they do seem to spin the engine a little faster . It still needs to crank over a few times though . It is just the nature of the beast. You did mention that you are still running points . Burned or pitted points can also contribute to a hard starting . While you are looking at them look at the inside of the dist cap for corroded contacts , and scrape them clean if they have build up. You have been given a lot of good advise here from us all. One thing , DO NOT MAKE A BUNCH OF CHANGES AT ONE TIME. Take it one by one . Because if you make several adjustments and the engine wont run you wont have a clue which one it is . Before you spend money on choke cables . Why don't you disconnect the carb ends and pull the cable out of the sheath . If you find any kinks or bends in it straighten them out . Lube them up and reinsert them and you will see that they will operate vary smoothly . I didn't remove he sheath only the wire. and lube it up as you reinsert it. Gary

[Ramses]

I have a question about my '73. I have '72 SU carbs the choke works properly and I have been having cold start issues ever since I have owned her. The mechanical electric pump is working well, but the dealer installed electrical fuel pump is disconnected. Could this fact be causing the carbs to starve for fuel during startup? I thought the electrical fuel pump was installed by the dealer to help compensate for the crappy flat top carbs that have been removed from my z. I have everything to connect the electrical fuel pump, but I have been apprehensive to connect it because I think that it is weird that it connects to the electrical system where the voltage reg connects to the car. Any ideas?

[biddljj]

Great thread.... I have a 72 240Z that always starts kinda hard when cold.

I live at 8400 feet above sea level so it cold here on a regular basis.

The foot feed clue is a good on. My Z is always cranky getting started but

once running is a happy camper. I also leave the choke at about half for

several minutes during warm up ...

This morning has me taking the truck & trailer to go pick up the Z after seat bracket

welding. I plan to block sand / body work on the Z for paint early next year.

Last week it was exhaust install. This week it's seats. No more moving the Z around

sitting on a kitty litter bucket.

Not just a Z - zdisease

[JimmyZ]

I agree with Kenz earlier post. Make sure the points are in good shape and adjusted. Check the plugs too. Having the points off just a bit or pitted will cost a few extra revolutions when cranking.

It should take a few extra cranks/seconds to get it started but it shouldn't be an ordeal.

Could this possibly have something to do with the crap gas our Z's are being force fed. Perhaps the ethanol in the equation is to blame.

BTW I live in Central Florida. It rarely gets cold. (20-30F at worst) When it does my Z starts in about two -three seconds but runs a little rough for 30sec to 1 minute. After about 5 minutes it's completely limbered up. I use a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW

2c

Jim

Edited November 16, 2008 by JimmyZ