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Backup switch help


ddezso

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I am finally getting to the underside of my car project and have noticed that there are two switches sticking out of my transmission that are disconnected and look the same.

Although my car is a build date 11/70 the engine is from a 74 and I cant ID the tranny. I believe the s/n is in a location not visible while in the car (is that true?).

My backup lights do not work and it is quite obviously because the backup switch is not connected. I have attached 2 pictures and have 2 questions.

First question is there are no disconnected electrical connections that I can see anywhere near these switches. Can anyone explain where I can trace the electrical cables from and to to find where I would connect the appropriate backup switch?

Second question is which are these two switches? Various manuals I have show a 'neutral safety switch' which might be present since I cant ID the tranny but I dont think my year of Z used that feature (explaining why it would be disconnected).

The first picture shows the switch coming out towards the front of the tranny on the right side. The second shows the switch that is just below the shifter near the start of the propeller shaft near the speedo connection.

I want to replace the backup switch and find where to connect it electrically.

Any pointer would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Derek

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Derek,

Hope this helps. Here's a picture showing where the harness for the backup light originates on my car (5/70), this is right under my battery. I tried to take a picture of the transmission but it came out to dark to see anything.

I believe I have only one electrical connection on my transmission. If needed, I can take a clear picture from underneath the car sometime tomorrow.

Bruce

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The backup light wires on both my cars (10/70 and 7/71) both come from the same spot that Bruce's picture shows.

The backup light switch is the one on the right side of the transmission. The other one is probably a top-gear-indicator switch, which were commonly used in the late '70s for emission control. They would often vary the ignition advance depending on what gear you were in. You can safely ignore that in your case, I should think.

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The switch closest to the bellhousing is the reverse switch, and the one by the shifter is the neutral switch (labeled as "Stop switch" on the 1972 FSM wiring diagram.) Wiring comes from the engine harness right where it is secured to the passenger frame rail--a thin wire bundle should disappear via the trans tunnel containing two paired sets of wires. Just checked my FSM, the reverse switch wires are red or red w/ black trace, and neutral/stop switch is green with yellow trace. 1970 may be different. Obviously, both of yours are disconnected. You probably have a later 4-speed based on Bruce's comment, but I'm not sure on that one....

The switch comes out pretty easily with a crescent wrench (18mm, or thereabouts). The inner aspect of the switch has a spring-loaded plunger that is depressed by shifter's input shaft as it rotates when you shift over to the third fork, which breaks the switch and causes the lights to come on. Test the contacts with a continuity tester setting of your multimeter. If Continuity is broken by depressing the plunger the switch should be salvageable provided you can make clean wiring connections to the harness. You will probably have to solder on new wire and connectors after cleaning the contacts, and find some sort of rubber sleeve to protect it from road grime.

Good luck,

Steve

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Derek,

Hope this helps. Here's a picture showing where the harness for the backup light originates on my car (5/70), this is right under my battery. I tried to take a picture of the transmission but it came out to dark to see anything.

I believe I have only one electrical connection on my transmission. If needed, I can take a clear picture from underneath the car sometime tomorrow.

Bruce

Off topic...Bruce, where did you get the mounting hardware for your brake/clutch lines? As you can see from my pic (didn't realize I double-posted, sorry!) mine are pretty well done for. Did you fab them yourself? Are they painted or plated?

Thanks,

Steve

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Off topic...Bruce, where did you get the mounting hardware for your brake/clutch lines? As you can see from my pic (didn't realize I double-posted, sorry!) mine are pretty well done for. Did you fab them yourself? Are they painted or plated?

Thanks,

Steve

Steve,

They're yellow zinc plated. Mine were pretty rusted also but they came out looking like new. When I stripped my car I took most of my hardware/brackets/etc. to a local Plater. They had a decent size barrel and I had it all done for their minimum lot charge, $88.00

Bruce

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Arne,

The first pic is of a manual trans--I don't understand the basis for your statement. Additionally, The 1972 and 1973 FSM under "TM" (manual transmission), step #6 under removal and installation states (paraphrase): Disconnect electrical connection for reverse lamp switch and neutral switch. The presence of both switches is confirmed in the wiring diagrams for manual transmission cars. My original 1972 4-speed, as well as my later 5-speed have both switches.

I think it may represent a variation between series I and later cars.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good news - I got the existing switch connected to the wires you folks referenced and the lights work!

I did buy a new switch but didnt need it. I'd still like to put it in but the existing switch is totally stripped and in there tight.

Any recommendations to get out a slippery round metal switch? I tried vice grips and they even spin around on it. They werent the best grips. Any other ideas? I know if it aint broke don't fix it but I have a shiny new switch I'd like to get in there for fun...

Thanks...

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Mine took a deep socket to get it out. I think a 17 or 18mm...If I read the FSM wiring diagram correctly, the neutral switch is connected in the same circuit as the door and seatbelt warning switch and will set off the buzzer if you put the car in gear while not wearing your seatbelt (or if your door is open, I think. Been awhile since I drove my Z....)

Good luck,

Steve

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While I am posting I'd like to show you all the latest pics of my engine compartment. It is really coming along. Yesterday I removed everything from the right side of the engine block, cleaned it, and painted with the blue paint from Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports using a paint brush (there is no way I can pull the engine and do it properly). I think it turned out pretty good.

Check out the first pic from before I bought the car and the latest pic from yesterday. All of this work is paying off....

Just thought I'd share...

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While I am posting I'd like to show you all the latest pics of my engine compartment. It is really coming along. Yesterday I removed everything from the right side of the engine block, cleaned it, and painted with the blue paint from Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports using a paint brush (there is no way I can pull the engine and do it properly). I think it turned out pretty good.

Check out the first 2 pics from before I bought the car and the latest pic from yesterday. All of this work is paying off....

Just thought I'd share...

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