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rtaylor

Front Pulley removal

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I searched past threads and could find nothing about how to remove the front pulley while the motor is still in the car. I was thinking about using a chain wrench wrapped around the pulley and let the tension of the wrench against the garage floor act as a brake, but I don't know if that will damage the pulley. Are the treads on the crank the normal counter clockwise to remove? Any help will be great guys. This should be easy but it has me stymied.

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I think it's going to be really hard to get the bolt loose with the engine in the car, especially if the radiator is still in. I've always used an air gun with the engine on a stand.

I suppose you could put it in 4th gear, set the parking brake really tight, get a big wrench on it, and maybe if you're lucky, get it loose. However, even if you succeed, you're going to need to put a gear puller on the front to pull the pulley (damper) off the crank and I'm sure you don't have enough room to do that.

And when you put it back on, it will be hard to get it tightened enough. And you definitely do NOT want the bolt to come loose while the engine is running!

Pulling the engine isn't fun, but I think you may be better off doing it.

BTW, why do you need to take the pulley off with the engine still in the car?

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240ZMan's 4th gear suggestion works. If the bolt is too tight you could probably rent an electric impact gun from a tool rental place. If that didn't work you could always put a breaker bar on it and set it up against the frame rail then use the starter to crack the bolt loose. Last one is potentially dangerous, but its doable if you're careful.

Once the bolt is out you can usually wiggle and pull (a lot) and the balancer will slide off. I never had to use a pulley puller on one.

You should definitely be able to hit the torque spec when tightening with the 4th gear trick. I think the spec is only like 110 ft/lbs, but double check that when you're putting it on. Some red loctite might be a good idea too. Sucks when the bolt comes loose. I know from experience.

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Sometimes I use a long braker bar.keep the car on the ground,install the socket and the braker bar so that the end of the braker bar is on the floor or the frame rail.

[aiming to the drivers side],disable ignition coil wire and turn the key!the bolt is a righty tighty lefty loosey so when the engine cranks it will loosen the bolt with out engine damage[or any other damage if done right and safely].at the shop we sometimes have to do that.I know it does'nt sound all that good but it works.

If all else fails and you don't want to do it this way a chain wrench may work...but... you may damage the pulleys.or you could just remove the radiator and have a clear shot with an air gun.[DO NOT LOCK THE TRANSMISSION IN GEAR AND TRY TO REMOVE THE BOLT THAT WAY YOU COULD DAMAGE THE INTERNALS OF THE TRANSMISSION---PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.] although sometimes it works. bolt torque is 87 to 11 ft lbs.

JZM..

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Then there is the Redneck way...

With a rachet that you don't care about on the bolt head, brace the wrench against a board that is securely braced on the frame, and hit the starter a couple of times...

Hey! I didn't say it was a GOOD idea, but know people who have removed front pulleys on other cars that way.

I just use my electric impact wrench. I bought it at a Sears many years ago specifically to remove the front pulley on an old Ford I was trying to repair.

Now that I have it, I wonder how I ever got along without one!

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Oops, Sory JZM!

I hadn't read your post before I replied.

REALLY, I meant no disrespect!

But as you say, the starter will take the bolt out. Not elegant but effective.

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:

Oops, Sory JZM!

I hadn't read your post before I replied.

REALLY, I meant no disrespect!

But as you say, the starter will take the bolt out. Not elegant but effective.

WHY I OTTA:tapemouth !... JUST KIDDIN. IT'S COOL.:)

JZM..

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Daniel. I was installing a new water pump and snapped the head of the long bottom bolt. I have the radiator pulled now. Next I have to pull the air conditioner assembly to gain access. I guess I could just loosen the cooler. I am planning on drilling out the broken bolt and using an ez out to get the broken bolt out. I need to pull the front cover off the engine as the bolt is broken behind the front cover. I have an air impact wrench, will that work? I would hate to pull the motor just to fix that broken bolt.

The ideas of using the starter after disconnecting the coil sounds promising. This car has not been started in 10 years...With the semi warm southern california sun I have a lot ahead of me...

Thanks for all of the input. I'll let ya'll know how this turns out

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Daniel. I was installing a new water pump and snapped the head of the long bottom bolt. I have the radiator pulled now. Next I have to pull the air conditioner assembly to gain access. I guess I could just loosen the cooler. I am planning on drilling out the broken bolt and using an ez out to get the broken bolt out. I need to pull the front cover off the engine as the bolt is broken behind the front cover. I have an air impact wrench, will that work? I would hate to pull the motor just to fix that broken bolt.

The ideas of using the starter after disconnecting the coil sounds promising. This car has not been started in 10 years...With the semi warm southern california sun I have a lot ahead of me...

Thanks for all of the input. I'll let ya'll know how this turns out

Yep, I have had that long bolt snap off on me too. Once the front cover is off, you might be able to grab it with vice grips. Heat the block area around the bolt first. Sometimes the expansion is all you need to back it out.

I was able to pry the pulley off with a large, stout screw driver, after getting the bolt off of course. An impact gun makes easy work of getting the bolt loose.

Good luck,

Marty

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On My L24, the front "pully" is actually two separate pieces. the front piece has only one belt grove, and is trapped under the main bolt. It has two holes in it that line up with socket head cap screws that serve as alignment studs.

The front piece should just pull off with a screw driver, or even by hand.

I mention this, because if you try to use a wheel puller with that part still attached the result is just frustration...

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On My L24, the front "pully" is actually two separate pieces. the front piece has only one belt grove, and is trapped under the main bolt. It has two holes in it that line up with socket head cap screws that serve as alignment studs.

The front piece should just pull off with a screw driver, or even by hand.

I mention this, because if you try to use a wheel puller with that part still attached the result is just frustration...

I'm wondering if your car had A/C installed at one time.

The 240z's that I've owned have had a "two groove" pulley that was manufactured of an inner and outer piece bonded together, but which could not be separated without destroying the part. The spare L24 I picked up had this same pulley, with the addition of a "3rd groove" like you describe bolted onto the front to drive the dealer installed A/C system.

After removing the additional "3rd groove", I couldn't get the original pulley off the crankshaft snout by hand, so I used a pulley-puller to avoid possible damage to the pulley itself, or the woodruff keys.

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I believe it has dealer installed AC considering the build date. (However I have all the original Datsun owners manuals and one of them is for AC, surprisingly enough.)There are two pulleys; one with two groves, the other has one. The outer pulley has 2 bolts that connect it to the inner pulley. When I removed the outer two bolts that pulley then spinned freely but would not come off. I need to get my head down there so I can see what is going on. I purchased a front pulley puller. Got the AC cooler off last night so I could try the impact on the main bolt, but ran out of time to do anything else, what with my one year old demanding attention. Next weekend I will get back to it...

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Randy, on my '73 with the dealer installed AC I too had the 3rd pulley. However, it turned out that the middle pulley was the one that lined up with the AC compressor. So I left the outer (3rd) pulley off. I figured less mass on the crank was a good thing.

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I took all of the suggestions and used my impact on the front bolt and it came off smoothly. Then I used a pulley puller and the pulley came off smoothly as well. Next, the distributor was pulled and this weekend I'll pull the oil pump which will then allow me to get the darn front cover off. What alot of work just to fix a broken bolt, but now I have a better understanding of the componets that sit in front of the block.

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I am now in the process of putting the front pulley back on. I notice that there is a keyway on both the pulley and the crank. But I looked in the box where I placed the pulley after removal and found no key. Here's a really dumb question, is there supposed to be a key installed, and if so, since it has mysteriously vanished, where would I get one?:stupid:

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YES YOU NEED THE KEY!! I would guess that it would only be available from the dealer, or possibly MSA, but I have never tried to buy one.

Good luck,

Marty

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Yes, you need the key! A "real" auto parts store should have them. Here in CO the larger Napa stores carry them. The Autozone/Checkers don't. I don't know how they are sized, but I'd measure the keyway on the crank as well as you can and then buy a few of them around that size. They're not expensive and once you're back home you'll be able to see which fits best.

Perhaps others can be more specific, but that's how I'd solve it.

Good luck!

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Yes you will need a keyway. Most part houses have keyway selections. Just take your pulley/balancer into the store and get them to match it up. You may want to check the floor and wherever you carried the pullies. It probably fell out sometime after you pulled the pulley. Interesting way to learn about the L6 engine!

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There is supposed to be a key. A Woodruff key is what it's called. Actually there are three. One for the timing chain gear, one for the oil pump gear, and one for the pulley. They're all the same any you only need the front one. 00926-51600 is the part number and last time I needed one (8/04) the Nissan dealer had them. It's a 5x16 woodruff key if you want to try a hardware store but I think you'd be better off with OEM.

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Thanks guys. I checked with the local Nissan dealer and he has one in stock. Thanks for the part number Stephen, that helped alot!

All my learning experiences seem to be "interesting" ZSaint. Funny how it works that way...

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I too suggest the OEM key. A nice snug fit in the crank and pulley keyways is important, a little slop could make a mess over time. Be careful when installing the pulley that the key doesn't get pushed up/back in the crank slot and bind the pulley or "bugger up" the grooves. If the key is firmly seated in the bottom of the crank keyway and the key "flat" surface is parallel with the crank you'll have no problem.

I would also wonder where the original key went. Perhaps a quick inspection to insure it didn't drop into the pan?

Enjoy the project.

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Jim you raise an issue I had not even thought of. I could swear that I did not drop it in the driveway when pulling the pulley. I just reinstalled the front cover and water pump. The motor is not out of the vehicle. If the key dropped it would have slipped down the inside of the front cover into the oil pan? How would I do an inspection? pull the front cover back off and try and get a magnet inserted down the space between the front of the block and the pan? The woodruff key should be magnetic, right?

Would it do any damage if I left it in the pan? This all started because of a broken bolt on my water pump. Oh woe is me

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I don't recall the amount of space at the front of the pan to work with trying the magnet trick. AIR, a small flexible magnet may work and yes, the key should stick to it nicely. If it did fall in and you have not had a lot movement in the area, it probably isn't far.

As far as leaving it in the pan (if it is truly there) :ermm:

I'd be uncomfortable if it was my car.

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Yes, it has a woodruff key. I would search: 1) the slot in the crank where the key *should* be, 2) your pulley, or 3) the ground where the puuly was removed. Don't assemble without the key.

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Randy, I notice you live in Pomona. I'm assuming California. I lived there from 1961 to 1980, attended elementary (Arroyo), middle (Junior High in those days-Marshall), high school (Ganesha), and college (Cal Poly) there. My stepmother, brother, sister, and son now all reside in diffiernt parts of that city so I occaisionally still spend time there.

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