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Auto>Manual Conversion - what to replace?


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Hey guys,

OK so the auto to manual conversion is looming (I am planning 1st or 2nd weekend of January) and in preparation I'd like to gather up all the bits that I know I should buy/replace. So far I would consider:

- Clutch

- Spigot bearing (from Nissan?)

- Flywheel (get it resurfaced somewhere probably the best bet?)

- Clutch alignment tool (need to buy to put the clutch in properly, yes? Available from any Repco/Supercheap type store)

Does anyone know where I should/could buy these parts from? I'd prefer good quality stuff - a meatier clutch if not too much more expensive too. I heard there was a good and cheap clutch man in Brisbane? Should I get anything else other than those 4 things? How about some device to drop the gearbox onto once it's unbolted?

Sorry if these questions are really simple - I've never done something like this before and I don't know anyone who has so you guys are all I've got. Like the collective father I never had LOL

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If you're using a 'B' type 5 speed, you can use the clutch parts from a 2+2 or a ZXT. It's a little bigger than the standard Z clutch. 243mm vs. 225mm. Don't forget about the hydraulic stuff, master cylinder, slave cylinder, lines, etc. and the pedal assembly and hardware that goes with it.

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G'day Alfadog, I just registered into the Classic Z car club, by the look of your picture I take it you are refering to a 240K. This being the case I can help you. I have done this conversion numerous times (Being a 240k fanatic). The best thing about 240k's is that everything is so easily converted. Tailshaft, speedo cable, cross-member and mount are all interchangeable. Repco sells the spigot bushes(abt $5). Be carefull buying clutch kit, there are 2 different height Throw-out bearing carriers and the pressure-plate needs to suit. You will need (of course) a mastercylinder (repco), line (second hand) and slave cylinder(repco). The pedals are easy, the clutch pedal mount is already there, just slide it on. The brake pedals can be swapped. Rpm do a heavy duty street clutch kit at a reasonable price. I don't usually machine the flywheel (I'm a tight arse) but any machine shop can do it. One thing to remember is to join the Neutral safety switch wires together, otherwise she won't go. A clutch aligner is handy although not completely nessesary, any old datsun imput shaft does the job. If you need any other info just ask. I can also help you out with parts, I have a datsun graveyard, with abt 10 240k's. Datsun240kman@yahoo.com.au

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Welcome to the forum Mark!

Another K man, this is great; weve got a decent community going now :D Id be interested in any pictures you have of your so called 'graveyard'! Do you have an 'ultimate' 'k that youre working on at the moment? Theres a few parts that id be interested in if youre selling any? Ill PM you? Regards,


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Stephen - thanks, is there a way to know if I have a B-type 5-speed? I have the blue parts car now so pedals, master cyl, lines etc. are all there. I'm mainly just looking for what is worthwhile to replace while it's all out.

Mark - First, welcome to the forums! It's good to have someone like yourself who is obviously very knowledgeable about these cars to help some of us out. I have my auto car and a parts car that is manual. Does the tail shaft have to be swapped over? Speedo cable should be the same if I keep the same diff, shouldn't it? I will get the spigot bush from Repco, thanks. In regards to a clutch kit... two heights - which is the one I need? I have the master and slave cylinders in the parts car too so that should be OK. Good to know pedals are easy to swap in!

Thanks for the info. If anyone else has anything else to add I would appreciate it!

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Alfadog- Tailshafts are the same, so that's O.k.

You will need to swap the speedo drives from the auto to the manual if you leave the auto diff in. (The speedo drive is the piece the cable screws onto in the box end, the 10mm bolt holds it in.) You may want to consider swapping diffs anyway. The 3.9 ratio from the manual gives you better pick-up than the 3.5 ratio from the auto.

As for the pressure plate height most 240ks use the lower one, It's only normally a problem if someone has mucked around with it and put a clutch from a Z car or 260C etc. Just compare the new one with the old one before you start. I would just order a 240k clutch and see what happens.

One other little thing you could replace are the gearstick bushes, as the are normally a bit sloppy. You will have to get those from Nissan, and try and talk to someone there who's prepared to look them up on microfische, some spare parts people don't like looking for the old stuff.

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Tom- I'll try and get some photos together, this could take a little while, my computer skills are not up to scratch yet. I am working on a project K but it's a little slow going. It's been painted and is on the way back together. As for parts I can help you out there No worries.

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Good thing about Japanese cars - all the hookups are there, even if not used. The firewall will have the holes for the unused parts, but they'll be covered and need to be punched-out. Sounds like you have a really knowledgable supporter to help you along.

This link will take you to a drawing of all the Z transmission types A, B, and T-5.


I also recommend changing out the rear end to match the tranny. When I switched from 4 speed to 5 speed, I lost some low end due to the mis-match but gained high end. Also, match your clutch to your driving. Racing clutches are no good for the street. I went with a bigger disk, but softer springs to make it easy on the leg for my mainly city driving.

Good luck! Gee, I haven't pulled a tranny in ages . . . .

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Lachlan, how's it all going?

I'm back in the country now, so glad to give you a hand if you like. I've done a few gearbox swaps in 1600's, so it's pretty similar.

I always align my clutches with a vernier, and haven't had a problem getting it all together.

For clutches, ring Jim Berry (07 3847 9999) and have a chat. He will build you what you want, for a fraction of the cost of most others (he supplies Rigoli, MRT and others with their "off the shelf" kits). If he doesn't have an off the shelf item, best bet would be to take yours in and he'll rebuild it to whatever spec you need (as opposed to what the fully sik magazines will tell you that you need). Also take in the flywheel, and he'll machine it for you. As Mark said, not really needed (I've never done it) but recommended for longevity and performance of the new clutch.

You'll only need a jack, and probably a couple of extra pairs of hands to remove / refit the gearbox (just be aware that the auto is one heavy lump). don't forget to drain the coolant out of your radiator before disconnecting your exhaust (needed to tilt the engine far enough back). On that note, you'll need a new exhaust manifold gasket too (pretty cheap).

Hey Mark, welcome to the forums. I gather you'd know Dave Gaines pretty well, then??

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