Aging Man with an Aging Car -- I need help

[wm_e_smith]

Stephen,

All my connectors are looking bad. I'm surprised the car is running as well as it is. I couldn't find one connector that still had a metal clip on it -- it was simply pull off and push back on. So I'll see about obtaining some and replace them all. Will it be difficult to replace the fuel injector connectors without removing the gas supply piping that seems to cover the top of the intake manifold? Or is that an impossibility?

[sblake01]

I replaced my connectors without removing the fuel rail.

[wm_e_smith]

This is more a story rather than a request for help -- prompted by comments by Steven Blakey and myself on another thread about windshield wipers.

Many years ago, I would go across the Mojave Desert from San Diego to Las Vegas in the blazing heat. The A/C would suddenly die. I paniced, got out and checked the fuses. The 20 amp fuse for the A/C was shot. In desperation, I would do the old trick of wrapping it with the "tin-foil" of a cigarette package and make it back home in less misery.

I became use to the problem and just kept replacing the fuse. After many years it finally sunk in to my slow thinking mind that I had better start analyzing.

I noticed that the fuse that went bad was not "blown" but that the metal on the left side of the glass part just came loose, like whatever adhered it to the glass just melted away.

Then I noticed the fuse box clamp thing on the left for the fuse was twisted from all the heat. I assumed, that I had been having a bad contact (less surface area) for the electricity to flow through resulting in extreme heat.

Anyway, sometime ago, I must have twisted the fuse box clamp just right and the A/C hung in for a number of years. But, now, the problem resurfaced.

I notice the area of the fuse box where the heat is obvious is melted.

I'm now thinking about putting in an "inline" fuse thing for the fuse and forgetting the originality. Does anyone have a better solution assuming a new fuse box is non-available?

[sblake01]

Well, I've never had a problem with fuse boxes in either of my cars or the old truck for that matter. I periodiaclly check the fuse box for corrosion, and tension on the clips. I clean them with contact cleaner and then spary them with corrosion inhibitor. The problem at the fuse box doesn't necessarily originate there. It's more likely elsewhere in that circuit. Really tough to trace but you should check all connections on that circuit. Aren't these old cars fun? I once thought of using the fuse box that MSA sells and splicing it into the system in my 810. That fuse box uses the modern type spade fuses. But since the circuitry is different, that would have probably been a nightmare to do so I passed on the idea. If they ever start making one for a 280Z or ZX I might look into it again.

[wm_e_smith]

I'm not gonna worry too much about it. The a/c is working now after my effort with a pair of long nose pliers yesterday. So, I'm happy. When it gives up next time, I'll run down to wal-marts and buy the parts. I'm still amazed that the a/c is hanging in.

My rattling on should probably be on the chit-chit forum --

Adding to my thoughts about the a/c, Id like to clarify that the a/c compressor is not the original one. That situation is another story. When I bought the car in 1979, the a/c did not work. Two months later a snap-on tool truck darted throught a red light and I hit the heavy truck which caused quite a bit damage to my car. When the collision place fixed it up, the a/c compressor was replaced with a new one. So, this time I felt like I was the "rip-offer". Then a few years later, close to home, something started squealing and before I could find a place to stop, the squealing stopped. I stopped and noticed that the a/c belt was burnt completely through and dropped to the bottom. I assumed it was a frozen a/c compressor, took it in, they replaced it. After years of thought, I have decided that I was the "rip-offee". BECAUSE since, I discovered that the bearings in idler-pulleys can lead a novice such as I to believe that drastic problems have taken place. So -- I still wonder. But I'm still amazed that the old car has a/c.

[sblake01]

Mine worked fine until about two months ago. Compressor went out. I think I mentioned in another thread that I was able to find all the parts although I might have bought the last condensor and the last two receiver/driers available in the US for an 810. Compressors, evaporators, and expansion valves you can still get. All I have to do now is isntall them but, as I probably also mentioned, I am a certified MVAC tech.

[wm_e_smith]

Mine worked fine until about two months ago. Compressor went out. I think I mentioned in another thread that I was able to find all the parts although I might have bought the last condensor and the last two receiver/driers available in the US for an 810. Compressors, evaporators, and expansion valves you can still get. All I have to do now is isntall them but, as I probably also mentioned, I am a certified MVAC tech.

I was adding an 'edit' to my last post apparently when you were send a reply.

I've been lucky. It almost a must that a/c works.

[wm_e_smith]

MVAC tech.

Not familiar with acronynm MVAC?

I suppose one of the reasons I am so impressed with my a/c is that it was serviced only one time, about 6 years ago, since I owned the car. And then I had it done because my brother told me I should have it done every year. He's probably right and I really lucked up.

[wm_e_smith]

My mind is wandering -- back to connectors. No local places could order the Bosch connectors, no near by junkyards, no near by BMV dealers, So I resorted to GOOGLE. Found a "telephone-order place" in Massachusetts that has them -- $9.50 each. I told him I need about ten, questioned s&h charges and he told me it wouldn't be much -- probably wouldn't weight more than 1/2 pound.

If interested in the future it's http://www.idcparts.com/ .

[sblake01]

Not familiar with acronynm MVAC?

........

Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning

[wm_e_smith]

Another question which I have always wondered about --

I have always adjusted the valve lash while engine is cold or near cold. Specs give info for hot and cold. Is one better than the other? And, what would you define "hot" or "cold" to be?

[sblake01]

I don't know if it's better but I've always liked to adjust them hot. I would define cold as having not run the car long enough so that the engine is at the ambient air temperature and hot would be after you've run or driven the car up to normal operating temperature.