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Car dies!


TexasNissanDude

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Hello,

I am a new owner to a 3/74 260Z and I purchased the car on eBay from Tuscon and had it shipped to me, sight unseen.

I recieved the car and on the way home it dies a couple of times. Checked for spark and no spark. :disappoin It seemed as if the coil was getting hot - replaced coil. Continues to run for a few minutes and then continues to die........ same symtoms as before. The car will restart after a few minutes of sitting. Then you can drive it a couple of more miles and it dies again. Check for spark and no spark. I located the ignition module and it obvious it's been replaced (plug cut of and module hardwired into the harness.

I am pretty much at a loss right now and would appreciate any help from you'll. Is there anyway to check the ignition module? :(

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jon

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Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.

It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again.

Hope that helps...

PM me if I can help further...

KCDC

Keith

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Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.

It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again.

Hope that helps...

PM me if I can help further...

KCDC

Keith

Hm, when the switches would go bad on my 510 they would just quit completely............. I guess it makes sense to me now! :stupid:

Thanks for the help! :D:) :classic:

Jon

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Welcome to the club! Where in TX are you located?

Thanks, I am glad to be here! BTW, I am located in Corpus Christi....

I did attend your Z get together in Round Rock last May (I was hoping to win the giveaway Z!!!)

Anyway, if you care to attend a fun get together we are having our SR20 Convention April 1-3...... We are rented Texas World Speedway for lapping sessions and then the BBQ and Car Show is SUnday in Austin...... follow the linky for details!

http://www.sr20forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=65

It would be nice to see a few Z's in attendence also! They do welcome any Datsun/Nissan product.

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Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.

It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again.

Hope that helps...

PM me if I can help further...

KCDC

Keith

ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS, WE NEED MORE COW BELL!!!

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Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.

Keith:

Actually it IS the "whole" Ignition "Switch". what it is connected to, is the Ignition "Lock" (the tumblers, that you mentioned) This part (the electrical switch for the ignition system) can also be purchased from some local auto parts stores. I believe that AutoZone and Poop Boys have been mentioned as sources. IIRC, prices were slightly cheaper than $20 (though not by much).

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Keith:

Actually it IS the "whole" Ignition "Switch". what it is connected to, is the Ignition "Lock" (the tumblers, that you mentioned) This part (the electrical switch for the ignition system) can also be purchased from some local auto parts stores. I believe that AutoZone and Poop Boys have been mentioned as sources. IIRC, prices were slightly cheaper than $20 (though not by much).

Which one do you recommend that I purchase? :ermm:

Thanks for all of you'lls help..... you gotta love the forums.

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Well,

I replaced the ignition coil last night along with the ignition switch. The car still dies after idleing for a few minutes. The guy had installed an electric fuel pump on the car before I got the car.... I am thinking too much fuel pressure? I did a search earlier and it seems as if the SU's only want about 4 PSI of fuel pressure?

I do have some good news though, I replaced my headlight switch and got them working fine and replaced the headlights with Silverstars!

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When it dies, check for spark by removing the coil wire from the middle of the distributor cap and holding it about 1/4" away from a grounded metal surface. If you get spark while it is cranking, then concentrate on the fuel system.

Do a fuel capacity test as outlined in the FSM.

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Hi Tex. Dude, Depending on the electric fuel pump the PO put in? you may need to see if there is a fuel pressure regulator in line to knock down the pressure? above say 4 to 5 psi is too high, depending on the size of the fuel lines? If you are around 3.5 to 4 psi the Su fuel bowl float valves should be able to control the pressure and not over fill the fuel bowls. You may need to check the float level and adjust according, and or the 2 SUs need to be sycronized and fuel adjusted too? Fuel level in the side fuel bowls are rather critical to getting a SU to tune right. You basically need the fuel level in the bowl set right, then the needle jet adjusting nut under the carb is the final fine tuning of the fuel.

So, yes you may need some carb. adjustments but I don't think that is your problem. Bad carb setup may be adding or compounding the problem. If you feel you want to twist on the carbs, check out some of the threads regarding SU tuning, there should be lots here to read from.

Craig

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ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS, WE NEED MORE COW BELL!!!

Not to steal then thread but, I take it you saw Will Ferrell on SNL whenhe did that skit. I play drums/ percussion & thought that was funny as Shell.

What do you call a person that hangs around with muscians?

A Drummer...

KCDC

Keith

Karl - thanks for the clarification...always learning...

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  • 1 month later...

Well,

Here is an update on my car! I finally get it running last night. It wound up being the electronic ignition module or the wiring going to it. I had tried several things including but not limited to

1) checking fuel pressure

2) replacing the ignition coil

3) installing MSD 6AL

4) replaced the electrical portion of the keyswitch

5) checking all the wiring and such

Wound up replacing the distributor with a rebuild one from Orielly's Auto Parts and seems to work great!

Once again, I just wanted to publicly thank everyone for their input! :cheeky:

Sincerely,

Jon

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