Re-assembling my '71 Z questions

[ZSaint]

I guess I did not realize that driving a show car 1000 miles a year would hurt the environment. Now, lets talk about killing our wild animals...! (heh, heh)

Thanks for the info on nuts and bolts. I know that LOWES has a great section of metrics. I will look for a large ACE Hardware in Salem. I guess I can use these "larger-headed" bolts and nuts if I have to. It will save me a lot of trouble running up and down I5 to the platers!

[Bambikiller240]

I guess I did not realize that driving a show car 1000 miles a year would hurt the environment. Now, lets talk about killing our wild animals...! (heh, heh)

Antlered RATS are in abundance. (I only kill 1000 a year so it doesn't hurt the environment) :pirate: :devious:

[EScanlon]

I guess I did not realize that driving a show car 1000 miles a year would hurt the environment. Now, lets talk about killing our wild animals...! (heh, heh)

Thanks for the info on nuts and bolts. I know that LOWES has a great section of metrics. I will look for a large ACE Hardware in Salem. I guess I can use these "larger-headed" bolts and nuts if I have to. It will save me a lot of trouble running up and down I5 to the platers!

I'll let you two discuss environmental impacts ad nauseaum.... :tapemouth

Regarding getting the original nuts and bolts plated, ZSaint are you doing that becaue you're planning on entering your car in a Concours Car Show where those things are important, or for some other reason?

I can understand that it looks better, but few people would be able to discern the difference between a properly plated and restored original screw/bolt as opposed to a replacement that meets the fastening criteria required of that fastener.

Additionally, depending on the rust removal method and the subsequent steps before getting plated, the temper of the metal may have been compromised, especially if heat is involved at any step of the process.

For that reason, I would heartily recommend you double check the need and expense for re-plated screws, as opposed to replacing outright with the right pitch/thread. Yes, in some instances there will be cosmetic differences (larger/smaller hex head on a bolt than the thread shaft diameter normally is associated with), but for the most part, I can't imagine a functionality issue arising due to the difference in the head size.

So, match the hardness and thread/pitch to replace, and check your plating process to ensure that the original hardness is maintained and that the plating doesn't change the tolerance of that piece Thick plating on a bolt will require you chase the threads to ensure it will insert into the nut (and vice versa). Combine the two, re-plated nuts and bolts and you may find that they don't mate without chasing threads which might remove the bulk of the plating.

2¢

Enrique

[AChev]

Once I get to assembly (not there yet) I planned on just replacing the most nuts, bolts, and washers. Are there any disadvantages to doing that? It seems to make more sense, as getting them plated and having to figure out what is what seems very time consuming, when a run to the hardware store for some stainless steel seems easier, and maybe even cost effective ( I do not know about the cost of platers)

[Bambikiller240]

, Thanks for granting permission for us to joke around

If the correct color plating is not an issue, it is quite easy to source most bolts and keep the correct hexhead (wrench) size, and hardness grade. Very few of the bolts on a Z are greater than 8.8 grade hardness (which is NOT the same as a US Grade 8 bolt, it's more like a Grade 5) I've attached a document that some may find helpful regarding SAE and ISO fastener grading.

One only need shop the http://www.lawsonproducts.com/website/main.nsf/html/Home?OpenDocument website. 90% of the bolts used in the 240Z are of the "JIS" (Japanese Industrial Standard) form factor which results in the smaller hexhead than the bolts/nuts you will find in Lowes, ACE and 99% of the other retail stores selling metric hardware. There are minimum quantity requirements but in most cases it is not a very large quantity.

[Ed]

First off the most important thing to consider, is the nut/bolt worth re-plating or is it rusted beyond repair?

If your replacing a handfull of nuts/bolts going to the hardware store and replacing those bolts would be cheaper. Re-plating all the nuts & bolt in a restoration can be quite expensive. Most platers have a minimum that they charge no matter what you drop off. Other platers will charge you by the pound. Personally (and having been through this) I replated ALL of the nut's, bolts, washers, links, clamps, headlight assy, etc.. pretty much everything that was originally plated. I've been to the plater seven times at about $50.00 each trip. Were talking $350.00 so far. Would it have been cheaper to replace all those nuts & bolts. I think it would have been about the same, give or take a few dollars. BUT I do have the knowledge that my car has the original hardware. Not the grade 8.8 oversized head replacement. To each his own I say. It is YOUR car.

[AChev]

The bolts that I came across earlier this evening aren't worth replating (as Ed said); many of the fender bolts were rusted and mishapen, so I would not want to put them back on my car ,even when replated. I think I will be doing a mixture of both. Reusing bolts in good condition, replating essential larger bolts, and replacing those not fit for my car. Thanks for the help guys

Sorry, I did not intend to take over your thread :tapemouth

[240 in OZ]

300 point concourse guys reading this; beware if you are thinking of replacing all of your old bolts with new, genuine Nissan ones. Many of the bolts I am getting from Nissan here in Australia no longer have the bolt grade stamped into the head, ie 4, 7, 9.

Joseph

[Ed]

Even the replacement bolt you receive here in the states from either VB or MSA are not genuine Nissan.

[240 in OZ]

You'd be surprised what your local Nissan dealership can provide you, if you know the part number. They dont seem to like looking up part numbers for nuts, bolts washers etc. If you have a part number, there seems to be no problems. Ive even had Nissan Australia get me replacement bolts from Japan.

Joseph

[Bambikiller240]

Even the replacement bolt you receive here in the states from either VB or MSA are not genuine Nissan.

Last time I ordered bolts from MSA (2 years ago) for the Water Pump, and Thermostat housing and Thermostat Cover, they arrived in Nissan bags, but did not have the proper (grade) markings on the heads. I was a little concerned so I ordered another set of them from Courtesy Nissan and got basically the same identical bolts (many missing the grade markings). That is when I switched to Lawson products for my bolt, washer, and nut needs. The plating isn't correct, but at least I know that I have the proper grade and hexhead of fastener for my application.