ZSaint Posted March 5, 2005 Share #1 Posted March 5, 2005 I am ready to start assembling my Z. I have the brakes and struts at the machinists. He is ready to take them to the powder coater. I should have them back next week. I am wondering what order I should put things back on the car. I do not want to put parts on the car that will make it more difficult to assemble. I am going to put on the master cylinders today and attach the brake and gas lines. I will install the wiring harness next. When should I put the fuel tank in? The tub in on a rotisserie so I can get at things very easily. Some of my parts, lines, bolts, etc. are at the platers and should also return next week. Can someone give me a list of how they put their Z back together? I have the Z book but he does not have an "order" or sequence for assembly. (Along with a lot of other missing info!) (I will install the engine and tranny last, of course.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26th-Z Posted March 5, 2005 Share #2 Posted March 5, 2005 ZSaint,There is no "correct" order and of course you don't want to put things on that make it difficult to put other things on. Start with the fuel and brake lines / wiring harness. Once you get to the point of putting the suspension back in, the car should come off the rotisserie because of weight. I don't see why you can't put the gas tank in before you take the car off the rotisserie, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Posted March 5, 2005 Share #3 Posted March 5, 2005 I agree, start with the fuel/brake lines. Then the E-brake, suspension, then take it off the rotisserie. I put my rear bumper on before the gas tank to have easy access to the side bolts. Once you get your Z back on the ground you can finish the brakes and the driveline components. I have my Z on stands to make it easier to work on. I'm now working on the interior and the door window and lock mechanisms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted March 5, 2005 Share #4 Posted March 5, 2005 When I reassembled my first Z (1981) I learned that it's better to install the rubber strap that goes over the diff, before you install the diff. For some reason I didn't, and had to drop the diff to do it as I couldn't get the 2 bolts started on one side.Ed's covered most of it. Engine, Trans, Driveshaft, and Half Axles last IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZSaint Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share #5 Posted March 6, 2005 Some excellent points, gentlemen. I'll remember to put the diff strap on first. The body/paint guy has to finish the front and rear of the car once I get it on its wheels. I will just have to fight the rear bumper on with the tank in place. It is going to be a long haul for me. I am not wanting to put it back together with the old bolts. I keep taking them up to the plater as I need them. I had them all separated into small sacks to keep them straight. When they come back in a bucket, it is hell to find the correct screw, nuts, bolts, flat washers, lock washers, etc. I think I will start using my Sony digital camera for the platers stuff before I throw it in the bucket! It will all work out. I am retired so time is on my side!I am having some concerns about the lines for the tank. What have you guys used to hook up these lines? I know they need to be special hose. What about using some copper tubing for all of the 90` turns/bends? I am thinking of buying fuel lines and then installing a couple of 90` bends to direct the hose through the 'maze'. Any plastic or hard vinyl pieces that will withstand the gas fumes? Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted March 6, 2005 Share #6 Posted March 6, 2005 I am having some concerns about the lines for the tank. What have you guys used to hook up these lines? I know they need to be special hose. What about using some copper tubing for all of the 90` turns/bends? I am thinking of buying fuel lines and then installing a couple of 90` bends to direct the hose through the 'maze'. Any plastic or hard vinyl pieces that will withstand the gas fumes? Any other ideas?You don't have the original fuel pipes and mounting blocks that run down the tunnel and frame rail?I don't think I would use copper. Many folks around here have mentioned that copper will react when in contact with fuel. I'm no scientist but someone will explain it for you (and I). As for hoses, they just need to be rated for fuel/oil. I didn't have any problem getting every size I needed from local full service parts houses. I did end up buying one fuel vent hose from Nissan, the one at the right rear of the tank with a 180 degree bend in it. Everything else was sourced locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted March 6, 2005 Share #7 Posted March 6, 2005 Some excellent points, gentlemen. I'll remember to put the diff strap on first. The body/paint guy has to finish the front and rear of the car once I get it on its wheels. I will just have to fight the rear bumper on with the tank in place. It is going to be a long haul for me. I am not wanting to put it back together with the old bolts. I keep taking them up to the plater as I need them. I had them all separated into small sacks to keep them straight. When they come back in a bucket, it is hell to find the correct screw, nuts, bolts, flat washers, lock washers, etc. I think I will start using my Sony digital camera for the platers stuff before I throw it in the bucket! It will all work out. I am retired so time is on my side!I am having some concerns about the lines for the tank. What have you guys used to hook up these lines? I know they need to be special hose. What about using some copper tubing for all of the 90` turns/bends? I am thinking of buying fuel lines and then installing a couple of 90` bends to direct the hose through the 'maze'. Any plastic or hard vinyl pieces that will withstand the gas fumes? Any other ideas? DONT USE COPPER LINE FOR FUEL OR BRAKE OR ANY THING ELSE ON YOUR CAR. The vibration will cause it to fail . I am not sure what tank you are refering to . If its the evap tank , you can use a couple of 1/2'' 90s to make a bend for the vent from the top of the fuel tank and run a 5/8'' FUEL line from the tank to the filler neck, if you are doing away with the evap tank, or run it up to the evap tank. Personally I removed the evap tank and all the vent line except for one. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Posted March 6, 2005 Share #8 Posted March 6, 2005 I keep taking them up to the plater as I need them. I had them all separated into small sacks to keep them straight. When they come back in a bucket, it is hell to find the correct screw, nuts, bolts, flat washers, lock washers, etc. I think I will start using my Sony digital camera for the platers stuff before I throw it in the bucket! It will all work out. I am retired so time is on my side!Take each bag of nuts and bolts and in your notebook write down where nuts & bolts go write down the size, length, pitch and a description of the bolt/screw. Measure the washers ID, OD, thickness. Same for the nuts. Then throw it in the bucket. I've been to the platers seven times, when I get the nuts & bolts back I inspect each one and then put it back in their corresponding bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hls30.com Posted March 6, 2005 Share #9 Posted March 6, 2005 Lay them out on a sheet of notebook paper as they are removed(at dissassembly) label the sheet, take a picture and dump them in the bag. The 8.5x11 frame size, and the lines on the paper make sure the photo will have good detail and an axcellent frame of reference for later identification. also gives a great before and after for the notebook!Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZSaint Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share #10 Posted March 6, 2005 My bad! I did not do that for the first 2 buckets. Now I have a table full of nice iridite-plated material that I am having to use as I need it. I started to size them and measure them later.I am thinking of doing away with the vent tank. I am guessing I can just leave one vent on the top, right beandip? Do you exit that vent line outside the car? Do you need a filter on it?That is what I did on my '73 Duster. I just vented the line and put a 180` bend in it. Did away with the carbon cannister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bambikiller240 Posted March 6, 2005 Share #11 Posted March 6, 2005 That is what I did on my '73 Duster. I just vented the line and put a 180` bend in it. Did away with the carbon cannister.So much for helping to protect our environment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted March 7, 2005 Share #12 Posted March 7, 2005 My bad! I did not do that for the first 2 buckets. Now I have a table full of nice iridite-plated material that I am having to use as I need it. I started to size them and measure them later.I am thinking of doing away with the vent tank. I am guessing I can just leave one vent on the top, right beandip? Do you exit that vent line outside the car? Do you need a filter on it?That is what I did on my '73 Duster. I just vented the line and put a 180` bend in it. Did away with the carbon cannister.YOU HAVE MY EMAIL ADDRESS . GARY I removed the evap tank because I dident want fuel in the cabin and wanted to eliminate as much as possable plus eliminating the stail fuems. easy to do . Zs built for the UK or Canada dident have the tank to start with . A great place to buy the nuts and bolts for the cars is ACE hardware of all places. In Salem I dont know there location but there is a ACE in Ptln that has a esxtensive assortment , the best I have ever seen . Even stainless and chrome plated. Still here to help !Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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