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Todays progress

A case for and against cheep tools

This afternoon I removed the rubber bushings from some of my suspension components.

I used cheep tools from Harbor Freight. I have had a 6 ton shop press for years, So earlier in the week I popped over to Harbor Freight and picked up a bushing/bearing driver kit and a few things that were on sale (a cotterpin assortment, a metric grease fitting assortment, a couple of flourescent lights, and some other odds and ends).

I looked at what I had, and realized none of the drivers in the bearing driver kit were large enough to handle the bushings in the Mustache bar, I checked a few of my sockets, but I had loaned out my large ones. Then I thought all you need to do is punch a hole in this bushing. i had picked up a $2.50 9pc hole saw kit, and sure enough, the 1&3/4 40mm blade was a good fit. I placed it teeth down on the bushing and placed a 2" pipe nipple under the bushing and pressed most of the rubber out with ease, withing 5 minutes, both sides were finished. I took the bar outside, and poured a little MEK on the remaining rubber, and left it to work.

Next, I removed the bushings from the front suspension arms in two parts

First I pressed out the inner sleeve that the bolt goes through. I just used a 2" pipe nipple at the base of a 6 ton Shop Press and used the ram of the press to push out both center sleeves.

Then I used the 1&3/16" x 1&5/16" bearing bushing driver insert (it actually is stepped and the smaller step fits into the outer sleeve while the larger step come just to the outside of the larger sleeve) between the ram and the bushing collar-it pressed the first one right out. The second one was not moving. As I added more pressure, I started to hear things snapping, so I stopped, backet off the pressure, and found the frame of the press had succumbed to the pressure-I have had this press 10 years, and abused it well beyond what i expected for the $60 I paid for it, so I was going to go down to Harbor Freight and get a better one-I found a 12 Ton on sale for $80-but a phone call to the local store revealed that they did not stock that one. So I had one side that was complete and one side that was related to a typical spindle pin. I tried the three pieces in the vice and squeezing, but no dice. This was not going to beat me!

Then I put som PBBlaster on the sleeve, placed the 2" pipe nipple on a 1/4" steel plate, put the bottom of the bushing inside it, and took the bearing driver insert, mounted it on its drift, and wailed on ity with a 3# hammer. Ten minutes later, the sleeve was out.

Other than the $60 press, I used a blade out of a$4.99($2.50 on sale) hole saw kit, a driver out of a $9.99($5.99 on sale)Bushing/Bearing kit, a pipe fitting, and $6.99($3.99 on sale) hammer.

I know I could not have beat the hole saw through the rubber, but after securing the mustache bar in the vice, I probably could have used a drill with the hole saw and cut it out. Beating out the other suspension arm bushing would not have been very hard.





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Replacing the 30 year old bushings makes the car handle better, The bushings deteriorate through time, and really were not all that firm to begin with. using urethane throughout the bushings will take a great deal of the compliance out of the suspension and allow the components to react sooner rather than later, meaning the transient responce will improve, and the feel of the car will be considerably "tighter!"

I am using adjustable bushings to allow for more allignment adjustability so that hopefully I have more adjustment to "dial in" the car.


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I bought the Energy suspensions set off Ebay for about 135 with shipping-it has every bushing in the suspension.

I also bought the adjustable pieces that go at the spindle pin and the front that is pictured in my first post in this thread-they came from VB, and do the "wrenches" must be ordered as well


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Now that your press is dead, what are you going to do to press out spindle pins and such?

FWIW, before the Spindle Pin Tool was arround, I spent a full day pounding out the first set, before I gave up and took the second set to the machine shop. My machinist had to use his 30 ton press (and a torch) to get my spindle pins out of the second set of A-Arms.

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I pulled the pins when I wrote the other thread- they are out!

I have accumulated all of the parts for a puller-but until I need to pull another one, I will wait to put it together.

Today I will be out by Harbor Freight so I will see what kind of press the store has in stock-they have things that aren't in the catalog, and they don't stock everything in the catalog.

This afternoon I will do the final sandblasting of the suspension components, and prep them for paint.



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As I added more pressure, I started to hear things snapping, so I stopped, backet off the pressure, and found the frame of the press had succumbed to the pressure...

Will, I've been there before, especially with tools from Harbor Freight. Well, not really the tools, but more the equipment. I'm on my 2nd 6" vice and will be returning it for my 3rd! I don't have a press, so I use the vice for pushing out bushings. I broke the 2nd vice here about 2 weeks ago! :eek: Luckily, Harbor Freight has taken them back no questions asked. When they stop, I'll break down and get a good vice. Can't expect too much when I only paid $32 for it.

I also bought the adjustable pieces that go at the spindle pin and the front that is pictured in my first post in this thread-they came from VB, and do the "wrenches" must be ordered as well

I bought my own wrench for my front camber bushings instead of the one from VB. I use a 1-1/2" open end wrench cut down to 7" long. It was $7 at the local Northern Tools store. FWIW....

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Between yesterday and this evening, I have all most all of the suspension ready for a final wipedown and paint

Every piece except the (struts/bearing carriers-which have been completly stripped for brake upgrade/bearing replacement) has been glass beaded, and treated with MetalReady.




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My 240Z came from the "factory" (dream factory, that is) with four wheel steering!


Unfortunately, both sets are the same length! the second pair came from the '76.

I just spent a few minutes to clean the second set up for storage.

I also cleaned up several sets of the front and rear suspension hardware.

Here are some pictures of the pieces that are not authentic, but may be interchangeable-though not called substitutes by Nissan.

The differences in the racks(between '76 and '72) are the '72 has two places for grease fittings-while the later rack has none. The rack bushings are wider in the '76 than in the earlier one, the '76 appears to be made up of more parts than the earlier one.

The differences in the front crossmember are the later version is made of two laminations of steel throughout, three at the jacking pad. While the earlier one is a single ply everywhere except the jacking pad, and immediately at the welded on appendages. These differences are noted just from eyeballing, but I will make measured comparisons in the next week.



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And here we have todays progress.

First, I finished the modifications to one of the spring perches to make it fit on the coil over collar-didn't get to the other one-I must get some more bits for the lathe-yet another trip to Harbor Freight.

Second, I started working on refinishing my wheels-the first one anyway.

The gold is coming off, I haven't figured out what color I want yet-playing with the idea of just buffing out and polishing the whole thing, or painting the mesh to match the car.

Third, I modified a set of turbo ZX wheel caps to fit my wheels, what do you guys think? With the polished lip it should look Zweet!


PS, the sticker on the treaded collar was left in place just for Carl, it is a notification that "this product contains chemical known in the state of California to..."






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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...


Here is the next installment-the TIG is waiting for parts so I can finish the floors, so I used today for restoring the quarter windows.

There is a before and after shot of the right and left windows.

1) I took them apart.

2) Cleaned everything,

3) Polished the glass (with the Eastwood kit) to get rid of the slight scratches, and the water spots.

4) Stripped the old adhesive off with paint stripper

5) Buffed out the stainless

6) Replaced the glass to frame seal

7) Replaced all of the hardware with stainless steel

8) Did not use weather strip adhesive in putting them back together-I will finish the weatherstripping when the car is ready for them.



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