C110 Indicator lense

[240K&Beyond]

Hi Tom,

I found parts of my indicator lense. I have the rear panel ane the metal ring that goes over the plastic lense. The only problem is the lense itself is missing and I cannot find the bugger.

Your welcome to those bits, or just keep it in mind.

[The C110]

:Cheers Bruce, thanks for you offers (= I may keep them in mind depending on where my dillema leads me...But, while i was collecting tmy rear panel i also managed to collect a set of second hand front right/left fender indicator lenses...you can always do with spares :cheeky:

[240K&Beyond]

No worries Tom,

I'm sorry it took so long. Now I have the question where is my Lense? Spares You say, I'm slowly collecting a small stock pile ready for my conversion/play in Dec/Jan. My side yard is sarting to look like a small Wreckers Yard. Hee hee hee.

Cheers.

[The C110]

Hey, i guess if you cant find it you can always get a lense of me now . I was previously living a few houses down from a mate of mine, who had pretty much taken up half of his block [it was 1/4 acre!] and underneath his house with 1600/datsun gear...Hes building a 1600 rallycar in the near future if everything is on track. AH and btw, would you have that wiring diagram lying around for the electronic dizzy, im going to try and wire mine up this weekend - I collected a zx coil the other day for $10 so im set.

[240K&Beyond]

Tom,

I traced out the wiring of the dizzy for you. It's pretty simple.

1) The Brown Wire which connects to the PIN in the Dizzy which points away from the dizzy goes to plus 12 volts. And you might even see a marking under the Pin contact that says "B" for battery.

2) The Blue wire which connects the the Pin which is flat to the side of the dizzy goes to the negative side of the coil. You may see a "C" marked under the Pin for Coil.

3) Last but not least, the positive side of the coil to battery. Now depending on how you car is wired, you should be able to use the existing wire from you coil. Just remember, some cars only power their coils with 8 volts because of a "ballast" resistor.

You new electronic dizzy is not going to run well on 8 volts, so you might have to buy another coil that runs without a resistor. And then simply place a short circuit over the resistor, affectively removing it from circuit and giving you 12 volts again.

Note: You could perform this bypass and run with your old coil, and it will work. For a while ! That is, until you coil burns out ! ! !

Regards,

[The C110]

This thread has already been well and truly thrashed arounnd, but to get back to some previous comments of mine, heres a pic of someone whos done what i want to do...

[Mr Camouflage]

heres a pic of ...... what i want to do...

Nice!!

You gonna go with the flares?

[The C110]

Yeah i should do, ive just got to be careful when cutting up the bodywork for them. Its much more difficult to install flares on a four door obviously because of the extra doors in the way but, it can be done. What do ya think of the colour on that car, not bad eh?

[khughes]

hehe, just cut out the rears on ours.. now i just have to get the damn fibreglass flares to bend back into the proper shape, they are a little warped..

http://www.project240k.com/gallery/categories.php?cat_id=48

no idea if what we did was right, but the flaires seem to cover them nicely.. just need to fibreglass up the gaps left now

[Alfadog]

Wow Kent, big move! Those pictures made me cringe... to think, I'll have to do that soon. yeowch! Thanks for the pictures though, interesting idea to have the inside cut into sections and bent forward... did you think this up yourself or stole the idea from somewhere else?

The pictures will be helpful for when I try to explain to the body shop what I want done!!

Any problems encountered?

[khughes]

no problems really, turned out better than expected actually!

i had been planning to have to weld up little bridges between the inside and outside skins, luckily when we cut the outside skin, we came up with the idea of just bodgying up the bridges by bending the metal (without them, i was worried the panels would vibrate, and flex a lot). now i really only need to cover the area with a couple of layers of fibreglass to keep out the water etc.. and then hopefully find some big wheels to fill up the gaps

[Mr Camouflage]

worried the panels would vibrate, and flex a lot). now i really only need to cover the area with a couple of layers of fibreglass to keep out the water etc.. and then hopefully find some big wheels to fill up the gaps

If you dont weld them up you have seriously compromised the stuctural integrity of the car. Do the shock mounts join up to the wheel arches? If so the wheel arches give the car alot of strength in that area, and now the edge of the wheel arch are gone there is no strenght there. They are just free floating. Might look nice, but you woulnt want to do any serious driving in that thing. Very illegal also.

You really should weld the outer skin to the wheel arch.