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Honda Strut Bar/Brace for Z

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Howdy,

I was asked about my comment about buying a Honda strut brace that could be modified for a Z. I can't remember where I first saw the posting on the Honda Strut bar (92-95 Honda Civic Front Strut Brace), someone on some forum said they had just bought one on ebay for their first generation Z and they posted the forum below. You must drill a hole. I havent received mine yet so don't know how easily this is done. But they are cheap. I just hit Buy-It-Now for $7.50 and then shipping was $15 (plus the $2 insurance). I've posted some comments from zcar.com.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=433913&t=403545#reply_433913

Here's a listing from the place I got mine. You might want to check it out. They sell same, or similar at Schucks, but they're about $38.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33591&item=2459201458

Gary

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A strut bar is a strut bar....

The important thing is that the holes on the ends fit the bolts on the struts and the thing clears the engine while letting you close the hood.

For a few bux, you could make one from stuff at the DIY store (3/4 inch aluminum pipe) that works just as well.

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I should add that the mounting holes in the strut bar not just fit, but you gotta make suere that the geometry of the struts is correct before you put the strut bar on. I mean if the struts are leaning in on the top (already flexed!), you should get the out to the right place first. Otherwise the steering might be off and there's no use in using a strut bar on a car with bad steering.

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Ok so when they talk about drilling do they mean the strut brace to accomododate for the Z or do they mean drilling into the top of the struts on the Z?

If I have to drill into the 240z body I'm not interested.

Otherwise it's still damn cheap even after shipping to Australia and changing currency.

Should see what ridiculous prices there asking for this equipment in Australia.

For a commodore let alone a ZROFL

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This looks very interesting to me, but I'd like to see a picture of the set-up in the car. Does anybody have a pic showing the bar installed on an early Z? The price is right, but the shipping seems a little high. Any other thoughts on this?

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Obviously the strut tower braces serve a purpose for keeping your car firm in corners. One for the rear strut towers and one for the fronts. I guess if you're just getting one for show it really doesn't matter how strong it is but if you're looking for strength, don't skimp. Just my .02 cents.

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I understand the strength issues. In fact I made the bar I use in the rear of my car. Although it doesn't actually mount on the strut towers themselves, it bolts directly into the body just in front of the rear struts. And it's just as strong.

http://www.geocities.com/vintagericeracing/Harness_Mount.html

But I figure if I can get this Hon-duh bar to work for the front, all the better. I couldn't make one near this cheap! Just trying to find out for sure that it will work. But I tend to trust my eyes before I trust just a few person's words. No offense, GaryZ240.

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Howdy Kmack & the rest of Y'All. I went back to the zcar.com site that I linked in my original message and found this picture -- for some reason it didn't seem to load the first couple times I was there. Also, I asked for further info on modifying. From the picture it looks like you drill one hole and one hole that is used on the Honda doesn't get used for the Z. Looks pretty good to me, altho I am no expert. From the setup it appears that it would function just the same and as well as one bought specifically for the Z and as we have all stated, the price is right. Who cares that shipping is $15 (really $17, when they add insurance), it is still less expensive than buying it in the autoparts stores I checked out and considerably less expensive than getting at MSA or any Z-specific bars I've seen listed on ebay.

I rec'd the strut bar yesterday, but haven't had time to do much more than eyeball it and it looks well made. If I mess up on the drilling I guess I'll have my first project for my Community Schools welding class -- Yes, at age 42 I'm going back to take that shop class I should have taken in high school. Boy can ones priorities change.

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Originally posted by GaryZ240

If I mess up on the drilling I guess I'll have my first project for my Community Schools welding class -- Yes, at age 42 I'm going back to take that shop class I should have taken in high school. Boy can ones priorities change.

Thanks for photo, GaryZ240. Looks like it will be something I can use. And don't feel too bad about the welding class. I'm doing the same thing right now and I've been welding for the last 8 years!:stupid:

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Just thought of another question: Is this type of bar adjustable? I realized that I have my strut towers slotted on the front to give more camber adjustment. They are slotted about 3/8" max. The bar looks adjustable, but I can't quite tell for sure.

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I think if it was adjustable, it would defeat it's purpose: to be really rigid. You might be able o do both if you made it really heavy-duty, but then it wouldn't look to slick.

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If the strut bar has rod ends, then they should be adjustable. Rod ends do something else for you too. Rigidly mounted strut bars will flex from bending forces. Rod ends prevent the bending forces from being applied to the strut bar, yet allow the strut bar to do it job.

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Yes, the strut bar is adjustable on both ends. It does this by screwing in or out on a threaded bolt, with a nut to lock it in place. I still haven't modified mine, just checked it for fit and looks like it will work just fine. Hope this helps. Gary

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Thanks for all the info. Looks like I'll putting in an order for one in the next few weeks. But I have some other stuff to sell first...

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so this can only be done on the front i assume because i dont see anything for the rear. I guess if i can find somtin about the rite length i can do the rear also. but i guess know one knows. Does anyone know?

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I don't know where this idea came from, but on my 78 it doesn't work. A friend down the street has a couple of Hon-duhs and had one of these bars for a 93 Civic laying in the corner. I took it home, drilled the holes and my hood won't close. My opinion:

Waste money trying to make something fit that wasn't designed for you car or buy the right part. You make the call! Fortunately, this guy owed me on for getting his car running last weekend!

post-3797-14150793569685_thumb.jpg

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I'm surprised somebody else didn't mention this already-

BEFORE you even start measuring your car for a brace or bar, you need to make SURE your chassis is in albsolutely PERFECT ALIGHMENT! Otherwise, you'll be locking it into whatever ****-eyed geometery it's in. That's what the strut bar's job is, but NOT what you want to do with it. You want to lock the (properly aligned) chassis so it doesn't change/move when you turn.

BTW- .02 cents is $0.0002!

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A front and rear strut bar keeps the vehicle in a "square" (for lack of a better word). Thus keeping body roll down to the very minimum. Of course beefier struts and springs can only enhance the purpose of the strut bar, as far as stability.

Vicky

I guess I should say 2 cents, right?

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Originally posted by TomoHawk

I'm surprised somebody else didn't mention this already-

BEFORE you even start measuring your car for a brace or bar, you need to make SURE your chassis is in albsolutely PERFECT ALIGHMENT! Otherwise, you'll be locking it into whatever ****-eyed geometery it's in. That's what the strut bar's job is, but NOT what you want to do with it. You want to lock the (properly aligned) chassis so it doesn't change/move when you turn./QUOTE]

YOU mentioned it earlier in this thread. My car was recently aligned. 4 wheel, I do it once a year. I was just curious (and skeptical) about this Honda strut tower thing and when I saw an opportunity to try it for free, I went for it. Even if it would have worked it just seemed too flimsy for a Z. I question its necessity on a street car anyway.

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Things in your vehicle will stay "square" with a strut bar installed ONLY if the vehicle is "square" to begin with. You can't "square" things using the strut bar- they aren't meant to correct the vehicle's geometry. You'd need an alignment machine, or to replace bad struts or whatever was bent to fix things.

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I think that the weight difference between a hondu (about 2,000 lbs) and a Z-car ( about 3,000 lbs) would make a difference in how the Hondu strut bar works on either car. The Hondu bodies might even be a little stiffer than a Z ( no offense) because it has a modern design and materials, which I would assume to be lighter and stronger.

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Originally posted by TomoHawk

Things in your vehicle will stay "square" with a strut bar installed ONLY if the vehicle is "square" to begin with. You can't "square" things using the strut bar- they aren't meant to correct the vehicle's geometry. You'd need an alignment machine, or to replace bad struts or whatever was bent to fix things.

When I mentioned "square", I was reffering to the handling of the car. The strut bar can reduce frame twisting. I do, however, understand what you are talking about.

Vicky

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Originally posted by TomoHawk

I think that the weight difference between a hondu (about 2,000 lbs) and a Z-car ( about 3,000 lbs) would make a difference in how the Hondu strut bar works on either car. ..............

Many of us have 240Z's which weigh less than 2500 lbs. Not sure where you are getting the weight of the Honda (NOT doubting you either!) but the difference wouldn't be as great as you mentioned., and any extra chassis stiffness will help.

Now, IF the hood will close on a 240Z is another matter. (I hope it will)

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Regarding someone else's statement about whether it is "needed" on a street car depends on how one drives their own car.

"Granny" doesn't even need the full power and handling built into the car from the factory, but "Mr. Autocross / Streetracer" needs/wants all the power and the chassis as stiff as he can get it.

Different strokes for different folks!

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I was assuming that a car like Hondu Accord weighs aboutthe same as my Ford Escort- about 2200 lbs). On the other hgand, my 280Z weighs about 2700 lbs. , and it "feels" like it's a that heavy from the steering wheel.

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