Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,090 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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I have a 70z that for some reason decided to not start. At first I thought it was the battery. So, I replaced that but now the car cranks well but wont turn over. I pulled the plugs and cleaned them to make sure they wern't fowled up. Fuel is getting to the carbs 'cause when I pull the needles out they are wet. So, I cant figure why it wont crank over. It had been fine up until now. Help!
Last reply by AxtellZ, -
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- 6 replies
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Hi all, here's the deal. 10/74 260Z with 72 SU's, otherwise stock. The last month or so, when i turn the key to "start", i get an audible "click" from the engine compartment, but the starter does not activate. Sometimes it works the first try, other times i have to turn the key 3,5, or 10 times before it kicks.. I've cleaned/greased/tightened the battery terminals, as well as the starter connections- sometimes it behaves, others it doesn't. As I haven't had a helper with me, i haven't been able to turn the key AND listen to see whether the "click" is from the starter or from some other relay or such. Any ideas?? Could it be the starter itself going bad, or more likely i…
Last reply by halz, -
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Hey mperdue I was looking at your site (and wincing at your rust) when I noticed that you were having a go at gasless MIG welding. I thought I might be able to offer a bit of advice. I've been successfully MIG welding for about four years now. I've never tried a gasless MIG as the wire is so expensive it seemed to make more sense to pay for gas, and I'm told it's a lot easier to weld with gas. I started to try and learn on a little machine like the one you describe and hated it. It may have just been my particular machine but I could not get a half decent weld out of it. I concluded that MIG welding wasn't for me and I reached for the old oxy torch. Then my dad boug…
Last reply by Rob, -
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Guess I'm just a dope. I can't figure out how to remove the hazard light knob. Can anyone help out ? Thanks.
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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My amp-meter was almost pegged all the way to work this morning, so I went over to the local Autozone to see if my voltage regulator was bad. We ran the diagnostic, and the machine said the problem was a "bad diode pattern", which the mgr interpreted as a bad alternator. At idle, the ampmeter is right in the middle, but bounces when the turn signal is on, dips when headlights are on. Past about 2,500 RPM or so, the ampmeter is reading about +50 unless I turn on the headlights, which knocks it down a little bit. They said my alternator is only putting out about 30 amps right now when it's supposed to be 50... They can get me a new alternator tomorrow, which is fine. I'm ju…
Last reply by BadDog, -
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Please checkout the pic. Does anyone know what rims these are, size etc. They seem to fit the era of the car nicely. Also generally what is the max. rim/tyre size a 240z can have? Thanks, Les
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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I have a 73 240 that had a auto tranny in it that I am putting a 4 speed into. I am using a 72 4 speed. I also have a 71 parts car. The 72 tranny did not have the shift linkage attached to it so I thought I would just use the linkage from the 71 parts car. I just found out that the 71 linkage is differant than the 72. I didn't want to use the 71 tranny because I didn't want to move the shifter location. Does anyone know where I can get the proper linkage for the 72 tranny? Will some other make or model linkage interchange? Any help is appreciated because after 2.5 months of waiting the shop is finally putting it togather today. Thanks, Mark
Last reply by Phacade, -
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i have been having a problem when the car is cold. once it is started and begins to come up to temp-the gauge continues past 180 and goes to around 210 before settling back to 180. it doesn't do it all the time and usually just when the car is completely cold. i have done the following to troubleshoot; replaced the t-stat [twice], ensured that i don't have air in the system [letting come up to temp-once antifeeze starts to circulate, then top off]. i have also run w/o the t-stat [temp seems to stabilize around 145-150, and don't experience the problem. i don't want to damage the head by seeing this temp spike each time i drive. does anyone run w/o a t-stat? if i do…
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 6 replies
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Hey Z folks, I'm having an electrical problem with my '72 240. Here's a brief history of the car, the problem, and the attempted troubleshooting. The car: 1972 240, all stock except aftermarket AC, exhaust, radio. I'm second owner and added the air and radio upon purchase 7 years ago. AC professionally installed by custom shop that specializes in AC add-ons to classics, street rods, etc. Radio by me, very clean, careful install. Car has been fine for 6 years with all items working well until 4 months ago. The symptoms: Cars runs GREAT until temperature reaches approximately 180 degs. At this point cars starts skipping, stumbling and the tach needle wavers +/- 10…
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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Howdy folks, my name is Mac and I just inherited a '73 240z. I need some help to get this car running. Here's the deal: This car ran well and was well taken care of up untill the P.O. parked it (still running fine) about four years ago. It was started and ran poorly about a year ago, then had the fuel tank drained and the (SU) carbs partially disassembled on a hunch by the PO that it might be the carb's fault for the poor running, I'm thinking just bad gas after three years in storage?. What should I do first to get this thing running? Do I need to address the fuel system or just fill the tank? OK, about the carbs: Right now just the floats are off the carbs, …
Last reply by hmsports, -
has anyone tried carfax.com? i did, and it said the vin needs to be 17 digits long. as far as i know, zcar vin #'s are only 10 digits. were the car histories just not recorded 30 years ago?
Last reply by Shiin, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
i've had my 240Z for just over a week now and the engine started to sputter today....if i'm at a red light at idle the car will sometimes start to drop in revs and then just die...and when i accelerate it feels if the engine isn't running at it's full potential...it sputters as the revs go up and it feels as if i'm running on less than 6 cylinders...i also have trouble starting the car now whereas i always noticed that it used to start really easy before...easier than any car i've started before...i used to turn the ignition for like a 1/4 second and i'd let go and it would fire up....one problem i had since i purchased the car was that when i'm accelerating it usually wo…
Last reply by driftmunky,
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