Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 2.3k views
I found this neat page about building your own meter. It uses dual LM3915s for extra resolution, but your are on your own to make one- no PC board is available, unless someone wants to draw one up. Also, you get to chose your own sensor. The only odd thing is the way it's calibrated and how you read it, but it looks like it could be useful. Pelican Technical Article: Building an In-Dash Air-Fuel Monitor
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 19 replies
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Hi, maybe I can get a bit of additional insight into my issue 75 280z, stock EFI. Starts up wonderfully from cold. I can turn the car off, and start up again within about five minutes, and it's fine If I leave the car to sit for about 10 - 15 minutes, then it will start up, and run extremely roughly for a couple minutes, occasionally dying, before evening out eventually. It seems like if I move the AFM wiper slightly counter-clockwise, the situation alleviates somewhat, which indicates that adding fuel is helping. I would think that that would point away from any issues like a weeping injector, bad thermocline valve keeping my csi open too long, etc.... I'm sort of …
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I've bought a cheap universal off ebay but it, like others, leaks down after awhile. I've read Zed Head say that the Aeromotive Tech guys said theirs does it too and Wade Nelson put a check valve in the line before the fuel rail on his. I've found a retired Nissan mechanic that's getting mine fine tuned now that he's put that adjustable FPR on. So if my new Bosch pump has a check valve in the pump wouldn't I want another in the return line? I have brand new injectors so I hope they're not the cause. Or has someone found one that doesn't leak down? I need more pressure because of the larger fuel rail and some other things I did. And probably the drift? in the ECU Fa…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
hey all. i had a random day off from work yesterday and i decided to fix the fuel leak around the injectors that leaks when the car is cold. i guess when the car heats up the rubber expands and solves the leak. the most consistent leak was at the bottom of my #2 injector, where the metal cup and the green plastic meet. the other two leaks were along the fuel rail. all injectors were clicking. i was going to town when i got stomped. a couple of the screws on the injectors are either galled or really tight. the bottom ones are really tough to get to and i found a broken retainer, looks like its plastic?. i thought maybe i could just cut the hoses and take the rail out firs…
Last reply by no.never, -
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Anybody know what the rating is for the fusible link on the fuel injection harness is rated for?
Last reply by pakmule87, -
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I'm planning on using this in my 280z. The car is fitted with SDS fuel injection management, stock injectors, stock cam, stock 280Z intake & exhaust manifolds, stock exhaust (no cat). I'm hoping that I will notice some difference in power, but I know gains will likely be marginal due to the restrictive stock equipment and non-modified intake & cylinder head. I'd like to install a set of OEM 280ZX turbo fuel injectors. If switched to the fatter injectors, the mixture can be adjusted with the SDS programmer based on the injector flow rate, so I'm not concerned about fuel/air ratio problems. Any advice...? Thanks
Last reply by chaztg, -
First of all I have been out for a while and just getting back to my z car. Quick summary I had some electrical issues that were causing the car to run at 18V. This has been fixed primarily with a newer internally regulated alternator and a little rewiring. Thanks to all. Next issue appeared to be gas delivery. The car, after some checks, appears to be running lean. Previously I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter (not really related at least when replaced to the lean comment). I noticed when I removed the old filter that there was a lot of small brown particles on one side of the filter, clean on other. Both the pump and filter have less than 1000 miles on…
Last reply by bhermes, -
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There is a lot of information, and even a current thread, about using any number of the various gas tank restoration systems. These systems typically involve acid stripping the inside of the tank and then coating with some paint / epoxy type coating. I have two tanks that are in terrific condition. When I look inside the tank (as well as I am able to) the surfaces seem to be electroplated in some way- maybe zinc. Does anyone know how our tanks came from the factory? Was the inside untreated metal? Personally, I don't think so. Was the inside electroplated? If so, with what? Have any of you guys considered having the tank acid stripped and zinc electroplated instead of usi…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I just had my tank media blasted, boiled, and sealed. While doing so I delivered a Competition Engineering sump to be installed as a part of my fuel system upgrade. When I got it back, instead of drilling out three - five holes in the floor of the tank and welding in the sump, they cut out the bottom of the tank the size of the while sump. As a result the sump is now not baffled. I don't like it and am not happy with it but the vendor basically said, "Too bad unless you want to pay us to fix it." I took my tank and left. I have a real concern about the sump not being baffled properly and in low fuel situations allowing for fuel starvation. Am I right to be concerned or am…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 23 replies
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2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 17 replies
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I'm planning on replacing all my fuel injectors on my 76. I see the price for new injectors ranges from about $45 each for BWD brand at Advanced Auto to over $80 each for some brands. I've used Echlin products on my other vehicles over the years and I see NAPA has Echlin injectors for the Z for about $65 each. Anyway, is there any reason why I shouldn't go with the BWD (Borg Worner) injectors vs paying a lot more for other brands? BW usually makes good products, although may be not as good as Echlin. And I'd rather stay away from rebuilt or remanufactured ones and the core charge. Thanks Gary
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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Ok so i havent tried to start my 1977 280z in abut 6 months and it use to run fine, but now when i try to start it she trys to stay running but there is a sound of like pressure releasing and it kills the car as soon as that happens, im only one person so i cant see where the sound is coming from, the only possible idea i have had so far is that the fuel pressure regulator is shot but i checked the fuel psi after the filter and there was about 39 psi, but im new to working on these older vehicals im more into newer imports but this car was just passed down to me and i have big plans for it so any help would be nice.
Last reply by siteunseen,
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