Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 4k views
I have a 73 240z. Given our recent spat of cold weather (and an intervening sunny day above 40) I have decided to dig into why the read defrost is not working. I have studied all the various wiring diagrams and most of the ones i have dont even show the defrost. The grid looks good. One side's wire goes to ground, there is about 5k resistance across the grid, continuity generally checks good everywhere i checked it. There appears to be a relay in the actual wiring that does not appear in any of my wiring diagrams. A very nice 14v appears at the hot side wire to the grid when I turn the switch, but it then cuts off and goes to zero. I can hear the relay, but can't …
Last reply by jaltman, -
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I can't stop from a burning a wire, burning a guage and scaring the wife thinking I'm going to burn down the garage in my quest to get my turnsignals to work. Told her not to worry cause I won't let the harley get burned.....anyway I am at my wits end and need an electrician! Need some suggestions and recommendations on who can fix my car's electrical issues in the Austin area. I have been working on this for months and I'm over my head.
Last reply by texasz, -
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how many amps is the fuseable link comoing off the starter? my wireing diagram just names it and does not say how many amps...thanks for any help in advance
Last reply by MrDanno, -
so i recently aquired my first 240z after wanting one for a few years. it needs a little help but im baffled by a problem and its my first z so im unfamiliar with the car. got the car home. its a 1973 240z. had to buy a distributor cap and plug wires (electronic ignition) to get it to fire and had to put the blk/yllw wire on the coil for it to run. the previous owner is deceased so i cant talk to him and ask what he did but he was messing with the wiring for sure. i got it to run (suprisingly well) in the first two days but when i try to move it it dies. it idles excellent and revs up excellent in nutreul, and it moves fine while disengaging the clutch but once the…
Last reply by 1973240, -
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I've searched but no clear results yet. I have an old 280z dizzy that I would like to use on my 240 versus an aftermarket solution. I see mostly zx dizzy solutions but I'm more interested in getting the car running rather than performance at this point. I want to use what I have on hand which is the old dual points dizzy (which is my suspected culprit) or the 280 dizzy. Prob not a popular solution but looking for economical fix for starts. If so any wiring diagrams out there that anyone knows of? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
I would be interested in seeing photos of audio system upgrades and integration with a description of the components. Thanks, Fixitman
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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When I took my car to get it tuned up, the mechanic mentioned in the near future I should consider replacing my cap, rotor, ignition wires, and ignition coil. Granted the car is 40yrs old and everything can use a refresh or an update in components but I'm wondering if its a good idea to get it replaced or rather necessary. I'm going to place a large order from BD and was thinking of getting all the parts at once. The car runs like a champ so I'm not too sure of the benefits.
Last reply by bavarian06, -
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Hey guys, doing a straw poll I guess. I am looking to replace the headlights in my 240z and am considering the Hella's. Anyone have something they really like or are comfortable with. (DOT isn't a concern). I like the fact I can change out the bulb without taking out the entire lense assembly. I see some inexpensive (cheap) projection lenses on ebay but am not convinced and moreso, they look really ugly. Looking to keep it reasonable (Hella's with bulbs are $60ish each) I know that I need to get Dave's harness to keep from frying the switch and fuse panel.
Last reply by bavarian06, -
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Hi Folks! This morning the Z died on the morning commute.... Suddenly lost electricity and not able to start the car. Towed to a nearby rescue station. Battery - recently replaced Alternator - recently replaced What they found: Output voltage at the alternator is 13.5V, but power not reaching the battery. So they replaced the voltage regulator. Still, only 12.7V measured at the battery. They suspect that I have a faulty alternator...after charging me to replace the voltage regulator. Oh, and the really strange thing.... the V meter in the dash is reading ~14V. Dahhh, I hate electrical problems.. What do you think?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So basically a couple weeks back my car started to make a terrible screeching noise. So i bought a new water pump and installed that and it fixed the problem. A couple days later i had accidentally left the lights on and it had drianed the battery. I got a jump and it was running fine but then I went out and while i was crusing down hill my radio started tuning off and on and it eventually died. I jumped it in the morning and drove it home but i realized the amps were at negative when i drove with the lights on so i figured the altinator wasnt charging because i hadn't tightend the V belt enough when i installed the new water pump. So 2 days later i tightened the V belt a…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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So after about two years I thought my Z would be ready to roll today. I charged the battery overnight, made sure it took a charge and put it back in the car. I connected the positive cable first, but when I connected the negative cable sparks started flying. I heard a low kind of humming (or frying) coming from the starter/solenoid. I disconnected the negative cable right away. So what do i do know? Ive never had sparks like that before and haven't done anything to the electrical. What could it be? I know JACK about electrical, any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I just purchased a ZX distributor with E12-80 module off ebay (thanks for the link geezer!) and I got a great deal on it. It's missing a few parts though so I need some help. Thanks to Walter Moore's S130 distributor chart, I determined that I bought a '81 NA unit with an E12-80 module. Here is a picture showing what's missing. The rubber grommet that holds the wires for the module is missing as is the aluminum sleeve at the bottom that surrounds the shaft. I'm not talking about the mount, I'm talking about the sleeve that surrounds the shaft. I've seen some S130 dizzies with a plastic sleeve and some with the aluminum sleeve, but I haven't seen one with no slee…
Last reply by geezer,
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