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I am reading through the FSM and all the materials trying to track down what i can find. Using AI is extremely helpfull as it walkthrough alot of troubleshooting and ruling things out. Right now i believe ive rules out the fuel system, the injectors are all functioning and sensors because its stopping after a running for ~9 seconds regardless of its tempature, hot or cold. The last thing for the ECU troubleshooting is the Tachometer. I am getting a signal from the coil at the tach, but i dont know if the ECU is getting that signal. That would explain after the ignition start sequence it doesnt see any RPM and doesnt tell the injectors to fire causing the engine to stop quickly every time. I am trying to find a pin that the ECU would recieve this information but cant find one.

I understand that, AI is a smorgasbord of articles massaged into one. He mentioned he was searching AI. The reason why I asked the question.

Yarb, the 1980 EFI book is the official Nissan electrical troubleshooting manual. It's basically the FSMs stripped down to the bare essentials and combined in to easy to use charts and instructions.

The most reliable source is the FSM that can be downloaded on this site

So what do you recommend? Keeping the 1.5 ohms pertronix and 1.5 ballast resistor i the circuit?

I'm reading through some stuff and looking at information the AI and it brough up the thermotime switch. it functions at start up for exactly the amount of time my engine stays working.

Besides cgsheen1's suggestion, tapping on the injector bodies will often break them free. In your case though it might take a while to get all six free. The engine will run on three cylinders. Sounds like you don't have any injectors working.

Are you saying that it still will not continue to run? That you have to do this trick over and over? That would make sense. Each "Start" squirts some fuel in to the intake manifold. The cold start system would be working corectly. Not a problem. Still sounds like your injectors are not opening. Pin 1.

1980 EFI Bible.pdf

@Toiletduck34 Where did you find this reference material?

sorry im refeering to the cold start valve. I thought i wasnt getting enough fuel after the initial start and checked the fuel pump and its sending fuel, the filter is staying full. there has to be something that stops sending a signal of some sort after the start procedure because I ran a test. Test: started the car and let it run for 8-9 seconds. the moment i hear it start to fail i click over the egnition for just a moment. the starter grinds for a milisecond... BUT the engine continues to run. I did this 4-5 times to let it run for ~1 minute and it idle perfectly. ****maybe im only getting gasoline from the cold start valve... when it stops im not getting anything from the 6 injectors.****

There is no cold start sensor. You're at a good point to read the Engine Fuel chapter.

Sean, you need to improve your reading and comprehension skills. My messages are clearly meant to help the guy find you. And my second message implies that it was his fault you didn't want to reply to him. Both messages are in your favor. Why DM a guy who doesn't respond to a customer's messages? And why try to help a guy run his own business? Not my responsibility. You're way off base and not making sense. Good luck with your business.

Shut the <blank> up

i added a new fuel filter a few days ago. I ran the old fuel out with the pump and added about 5 new gallons, ran that through until it cleared out. it should be good enough to keep it running. Im leaning towards now the cold start sensor and the thermal switches. still trying to understand all these system. these sensors are ~50 years old, im sure they arent working perfectly. I think im to the point i know the engine is good. i want to tear this entire engine bay apart, clean, replace and start from fresh.

The op had the wrong contact info and posted that. I apologized. Stfu? Okay I'll remember to do that in future post. Kindest regards Pip. Cliff

I've been stuck on this album for a couple of weeks now. I'll put on something else and after that finishes I'll say to myself... Let's give John Hiatt - Walk On another play.

How long since a new fuel filter up front on the passenger's side? Sounds awful familiar of a clogged up tank. You can run a hose before the pump to a gas can to bypass the tank as an easy test

I can still learn! Yay? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toilet_Duck Toilet Duck is an American brand name of toilet cleaner noted for the duck-shape of its bottle shaped to assist in dispensing the cleaner under the rim. The design was patented in 1980 by Düring AG from Dällikon, Switzerland.[2][3] It is now produced by S. C. Johnson & Son. The Toilet Duck brand can be found in the United States, United Kingdom and other countries around the world. In Germany, it is known as WC-Ente, previously produced by Henkel,[4] and now by S. C. Johnson (Germany).[5] In the Netherlands and Flanders it is called "Wc-eend", in France it is sold as "Canard-WC" and in Italy as "Anitra WC". In Hungary it used to have the name "Toalett Kacsa". Meanwhile, in Spain, it is sold as "Pato WC", in Portugal as "WC Pato", and in Mexico, Brazil, Colombia, Argentina and Chile as "Pato Purific" or simply "Pato". In Indonesia, it is one of the "Bebek" (duck) line of products, such as Bebek Kloset, Bebek Semerbak, Bebek Semerbak Flush, Bebek In Tank, and Bebek Kamar Mandi.

Close up any vacuum leaks to the intake system. All air has to pass through the AFM so the computer knows how much fuel to add. And the big screw with the wide washer head on the throttle body is the idle speed screw. It lets air past the throttle blade. You can adjust it by hand to raise idle speed while you troubleshoot.

Well you don't know me as a music snob, just a greasy guy from Alabama, but you need to listen to that album. I'm going out on limb without google.com but that's the last one? P.s When I was young you could flip the needle over for a new one.

its not near close enough to get into the intake. I did test the injectors and they are coming up with 12V now. When i tested them i was testing while cranking thinking both sides would be (+, -) but both sides are showing 12v. i can make it leak anywhere on the fuel rail and it seems to work. its really odd. i dont know how the fuel pressure regulator works but maybe i have too much pressure? Ill check the RPMs. EDIT: RPMs shows, i can keep revs around 800-1000+ and it runs for 10 seconds then stops every time. I engine has warmed up and I tighened the all the hope clamps so gas isnt leaking out and it still runs. Maybe whatever cobwebs were cleaned out since its been sitting for 10+ years. will continue to read and troublshoot.

Which clamp? And where is the fuel leak ending up? Maybe it's getting pulled in to the intake system. At least you know that you have spark. Does the tachometer show engine RPM when it is running?

UPDATE: Thank you for that information. I have unplugged everything I could from the Neutronics device, though I'm not sure if it's affecting anything. However, I've made a big step forward: I can now get the engine running for a short period of time! I don't understand why, but hopefully it makes sense to someone here. Here's what happened: I decided to clean the cold start sensor. While I was putting it back on, a neighbor came over to talk, and I forgot to tighten the hose clamp that connects to the fuel rail. I started the car, and it ran—but with a fuel leak. If I tighten the clamp back down, it won't start at all. I checked the fuel return line to ensure it's flowing, and it's fine. When the engine does run, the RPM is very low. If I increase the throttle to approximately 1500-2000 RPM, it runs perfectly for about 9-10 seconds and then instantly dies. This happens every time without fail.

Actually (I think) this only true if all of the injectors are disconnected. It's a parallel circuit for the 280Z EFI. Batch fire injectors. CO pointed that out way back when I mentioned getting voltage on both sides. Or it might be if the injectors on the same transistor are all disconnected (there's two, either 3 + 3 or 4 + 2). The later sequential systems wouldn't do this. Anyway, I have seen 12 on both sides, which was confusing. But can't remember the conditions under which I was measuring. There are other tricks to test the injectors and the injector circuits. Like tapping coil negative to ground three times. But, it's best to do the simple stuff first, probably.