broken water pump bolt!!!

[cj71z]

Hey guys I tried to replace my water pump today and the long 12mm bolt at around 7 o'clock, looking from the front, broke off deep inside. I found some posts about this subject, but most dealt with the long 10mm bolt. I was wondering if I could tap some threads into the timing cover and use a slightly larger bolt in the meantime. Thanks for the help.

[280~Master]

I have been where you are before. :dead: I broke a bolt off in the block from the water pump. It was about 10yrs ago and what I remember is that it was the longest bolt out of all of them. Don't know if it was 10 or 12 mm. I did not replace it or nor did I tap it. I never had a problem with it leaking at all. I don't recomend anyone do this but it was my first Z and I had no idea what I was doing. :stupid: I would probly get a heli coil kit for this area now. Then use a shorter bolt in its place. Good luck and I know how you feel about the bolt..

[Gav240z]

I've done this before, I removed the timing cover and was able to get a grip on it and turn it out.

Good luck it's not much fun.

[cj71z]

Yeah it doesn't sound like fun...Do you think I can tap threads into the timing cover and use a shorter, larger diameter bolt. Thanks for the help

[VaGuS510]

i also had a simular problem, it probably wasn't the same bolt though. I didn't do anything with it. I had no leaks or anything either. The only thing i may have done was use some RTV around the broken bolt. Good luck.

[Curtis240Z]

Yeah it doesn't sound like fun...Do you think I can tap threads into the timing cover and use a shorter, larger diameter bolt. Thanks for the help

I don't think so because there isn't much extra material on the timing cover. As previously mentioned your best bet is to silicone the gasket, as long as the adjacent bolts didn't break off too.

If that doesn't work then take off the timing cover and remove the broken bolt.

[Ed]

Which bolt broke on you? If you notice on the attached picture there are 5 bolts that hold the pump. The two on the right at the 1 oclock and 4 oclock position are threaded into the cover. The two large and long bolts at 7 oclock and 9 oclock are bolted to the block and then there is the long skinny bolt at 11 oclock which is also threaded into the block.

[cj71z]

Hey thanks for the responses. Curtis, I had the same thought about how thick the timing cover was. If it's too thin then tapping threads may puncture a hole causing an oil leak. Hey Ed, I broke the 12mm bolt in the 7 o'clock position. How well will the pump remained sealed without it? By the position of it I'm assuming it serves as a major contributor to the pump remaining sealed correctly. If I do remove the timing cover, should I change anything while I'm in there? Thanks, Chris

[Ed]

There is a 50/50 chance that it will seal without that bolt. But if you have the time I'd say do it right the first time. Set the timing at TDC, remove the cover, remove the broken bolt and replace them with some stainless steel bolts and use plenty of anti-seize on your bolts when you re-install.

The last thing you want is for your water pump to start leaking when your hours from your home.

[cj71z]

50/50 isn't good enough for me, so I guess I'm going to take off the cover. Is it possible to remove the cover without taking off the head? I thought I read about this somewhere, but now I can't find the thread. I think it said something about getting to TDC, and keeping everything lined up because you have to remove the oil pump and the shaft connecting it to the distributor. Then by removing the oil pan, I can take off the timing cover. Does this sound right? Also while I'm in there should I replace anything line my chain tensioner etc.

[mlc240z]

IMHO, if you're taking everything off anyway, spend the $100 or so and replace the whole timing kit, chain, tensioner, guides etc.

you can always sleep better knowing it's all new even after you fix the 'original' problem.

[Ed]

50/50 isn't good enough for me, so I guess I'm going to take off the cover. Is it possible to remove the cover without taking off the head? I thought I read about this somewhere, but now I can't find the thread. I think it said something about getting to TDC, and keeping everything lined up because you have to remove the oil pump and the shaft connecting it to the distributor. Then by removing the oil pan, I can take off the timing cover. Does this sound right? Also while I'm in there should I replace anything line my chain tensioner etc.

Good to hear your going to do it right. You can remove the cover without having to remove the head or the pan. Loosten the front and side bolts of your pan and just lower it 1/2". Don't forget the two small bolts at the front of your head that bolt to the cover. Use a new gasket set, they are available with new front oil seals. Depending on how many miles and how well the engine was taken care of will determine if you should change your timing chain and such. Carefully inspect their condition. BTW the guides will have grooves in them. Are you using a manual?