• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About EhlersRS

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Member Map Location
    Cedar Rapids, IA

My Z Cars

  • About My Cars
    HLS30-21244, 919 Sunshine Yellow with 91k miles
  1. Ziggy, I didn't notice the "Y" and "U" subscripts on my tags until the post of your '72 belt tags. The "Y" on my tags are on the female end lap belts and the "U" is on the male/receiver end lap belts. On the remaining shoulder strap tag, I don't see any extra markings. It also looks like the female lap belts and shoulder strap tags have the same lot number of "2501" and the male/receiver lap belt has a lot number of "0510". The font and text of your '72 belts looks identical to mine, except your model number has a "B" at the end of the "7001". I have no idea what the extra letters represent! If you decide to make new tags for your '72 please let me know. Robert S.
  2. Ziggy, Your work on the early seat belt tags is great! I recently dismantled the belt buckles for rechrome on my 2/71 early Series II and wanted to add the photos for reference. The belts on my Series II were made in 1/71 and the tags have a different style from the '69 tags. At some point I'd like to have new tags made for my belts that match the original design. Robert S. Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  3. Phuong, Congratulations again! I have dreams of one day owning an early '69 car or a Vintage Z. Since that will probably never happen, I decided to embrace the fact I do own a Z and it's a very early Series II. So far it's the 5th earliest Series II still known to exist, so I'm always on the lookout for Series II produced before mine (21244). I look forward to seeing the progress on your new car and so glad it found you! Robert S.
  4. Hey guys, I finally had some time to take some photos of my 'D' caps and center medallions after rechrome. The new chrome turned out great! The back sides will need some rust prevention, so I'm open to any suggestions. I have received advice to spray the back sides with Rustoleum. Obviously, I don't want to apply anything that could potentially affect the new chrome on the front sides. The D center medallions also turned out great. There are two broken posts on the set of medallions, but that's a minor issue. I tried one of the rechromed medallions and a NOS medallion on a cap and the all chrome look is certainly unique. Robert S.
  5. Hello Thomas, I'm not sure how I missed your previous posts, but I also have an early Series II produced in 2/71. My car is HLS30-21244, so it would have been produced very early in February 1971. Last October I sent the heater control panel in for re-chrome and I don't remember anything being mounted in the two screw holes you pointed out. Also, my car was purchased unrestored and mostly original (minus the rust), so if you need any other assistance I'd be glad to help! Robert S.
  6. Considering how bad the wheel covers looked before the rechrome, I'd say they look decent! I like the contrast between the paint and chrome on the original caps. I wonder if painting them would conceal some of the pitting, or at least make it less noticeable? Like you said, these aren't show quality and it's still rare to see a set of original caps on a 240Z! Robert S.
  7. Thanks for the advice on the center "D" medallions. I still have the piece that broke off from the plastic post and I would like to use retaining clips again, but I wanted something else to ensure they don't fall off. I don't know why I didn't think about using emblem adhesive tape before, but that would be a good solution! Robert S.
  8. Thanks for sharing the update! I'm anxious to get my replated parts back from Mike. From his last email the plastic parts were done, but the metal parts were taking longer. Also, when I took the center 'D' medallions off my caps, one plastic post snapped off. I was being gentle, but what do you expect from 45 year old plastic! Since I don't trust the old metal clips, I've considered using this product from 3M to secure the medallions to the caps. Jim Frederick (Z Mecca) said he uses this to reseal taillight lenses. Robert S.
  9. Thanks for the advice on the Eastwood product. These pans are definitely made from a thin gauge panel! Robert S. Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Hey Patcon, This pan came from a guy in NC and I think it was originally on a '73 model. I paid $100 for the pan and $30 for shipping. From what I've seen a pan in average to good condition will run around $200. After the pan arrived here, I noticed there is some pitting on the area you mentioned. I'll decide if it needs repair after blasting the rust off, otherwise I'll just repaint it. Robert S.
  11. Also, keep in mind the splash pan for the '70 - '74 is different from the pan for the 74 1/2 - '78. I think you can still get the later splash pans from Nissan and the mounting holes are located slightly off from the early versions. Robert S. Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. I bought this used splash pan a few weeks ago. It obviously needs to be cleaned up and painted. It would take some work to fabricate a pan with similar dimensions, but no one is making new pans that I'm aware of. Robert S.
  13. Brent, I have a spare battery tray taken from a '72 if you need one for comparison and measurements. Z Car Depot is currently selling new battery trays in steel and stainless: There definitely isn't anyone fabricating the corner / firewall area! Robert S. Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. Hardway, When Marty Rogan was selling his pristine set of "D" hubcaps I posted this from the restoration of my caps: "The cost of re-chroming was dependent on the current condition of the hubcaps. My caps were straight without any dents, but they did have minor surface rust on the back sides and a little rust on the front sides. The cost to re-chrome the caps was $348 (set of 4) and the center "D" medallions was $100 (set of 4). Considering a good pair of "D" hubcaps is around $800 for the set, I thought this was a fair value!" I sent my caps to Mike at Vintage Chrome last October and look forward to seeing the new chrome! As you may have read, he's discontinuing the service, but I'm hoping someone else can take over the business for him. My caps were in better condition than yours in terms of rust, but since these "D" caps are getting hard to find, I think your caps look like good candidates to restore! Robert S.
  15. Brent, Thanks for the advice! It's always helpful to get advice from people that have traveled further down the road. I still have to remove the interior from my car so I'm not able to inspect the inner rockers from inside the car. However, I took a closer look at each end of the passenger side which is probably a little worse than the driver's side. On the front end the rust seems to be contained inside the rocker panels, with some rust creeping past the top weld/joint. From the outside the A pillar where the doors are mounted appears sound, with minor surface rust. Again, I'll have to confirm how this area looks after I get some of the interior out. As expected, the dog legs are shot, but I have new quarter panels. I peeled back the dog leg and like the front, the rear rocker area is rusted through but seems to be contained to the lower rockers. Looking up the rear quarter and inner wheel arch, the rust damage is all down below. I also have new inner wheel arches. In regards to a timeframe to order the full kit, I still have to save roughly half of the price. So I'll be ready to order the kit in late February or mid March. It's definitely more of a slow marathon and not a sprint for me! I was wondering did you use the Tabco outer rockers or did you can fab your own? Your outer rockers look better than the ones I have from Tabco (MSA). I'm thankful for your services because it would be difficult for me to fabricate these parts on my own! Robert S.