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Showing results for tags 'rattle'.
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the driver's side door on my car has been progressively making more noise and visibly shaking on the latch when closed and encountering any sort of bump in the road. when closing the door i no longer get the definitive thump that i do from the passenger side, yet i can't see any mechanical differences between the two latches. both lock and go through their range of motion quite smoothly. the passenger side closes, latches and sounds totally normal. if my window is down and my arm is out the window(i.e. downward weight/force on the door) the movement of the door persists, but if i keep my arm inside(on the armrest) and apply outward/lateral pressure all symptoms disappear. here's what i've attempted so far: -cleaning and lubing latches on both doors(as thoroughly as possible without removing them from inside the door) with no change of results on either side -adjustment of the body-mounted half of the latch. up, down, and outward all had negative effects, and currently both sides are adjusted all the way inboard(as they were before the symptoms started) i've never had to slam the doors to close them fully, the door seals both appear to be oem in great condition(car had a fairly extensive resto in the late 90's), windows roll up/down very smoothly(door doesn't seem bent out of normal clearance). i have the rubber bumpers/stoppers that attach to the body, are there supposed to be any on the underside of the door itself? what's my next step, yall? -
I have 2 videos of the noise, you can see the shorter one here: I think you can see the other by looking at my videos (I only have Internet on my phone at the moment) I bought this car 2 weeks ago, immediatly did an oil & filter change, and I replaced the plugs and wires with NGK ones. I didn't notice the engine rattle until after the oil change, but I then noticed it was present in a video I took the night I bought the car. I adjusted the valve lash 3 days ago while the engine was cold, most were close to the specs, but only 3 valves didn't need adjustment. I also did a cold engine compression test and all cylinders were between 145 and 152 psi. The front three spark plugs look pretty different from the last 3, I'm guessing the carbs are out of sync, they are the stock flat tops. The 4th plug is fouled wet and black, and I'm sure it's not firing because the engine doesn't bog when I remove the plug wire, but it is getting spark. The rattle seems to be coming either from inside the engine, or around where the intake and exhaust manifolds are. It doesn't quite sound like the noise is coming from the valve cover, but I wouldn't rule it out. I haven't gotten a stethoscope or. Timing light yet, but I plan to tomorrow. I have Read several posts pointing to a worn timing chain tensioner, but wouldn't that sound come fronthr front of the engine rather than all the way down it? I can take more videos or pictures, just let me know. Thank you, Matt