hmsports

I have four light buckets for sale. Three are right side and one left side. The red one has some bubbly surface rust as indicated. The others just have some chips in the paint. $20 each or $15 for the rusted red one.

I've got a center console from my 72 for sale. $25 takes it. Has one crack between the sliding ash tray and the rear part of the slot for the choke cable. There are a few small surface scratches in the plastic and the shift boot is ripped up. Sorry for the poor picture:

I've also contemplated a set of those. The advantages: Much finer and easier adjustment of toe and camber because of the spherical ball joints. Also, there would be no flex from any bushings. I'm not sure of any weight savings, if anything, they might weight a bit more. The price is what has keep me from buying any. I have started working on some plans to build my own.

Found this one that may be a good starting point for something that looks professional :classic: Custom Fuse Blocks

I've done it with some aftermarket fuse blocks from a local parts store. Granted it was for my race car but wasn't difficult to do. There are several companies that you can get new generic fuse blocks from (costly) but I'm sure you could poke around a local salvage yard and see what looks close.

It sounds like a good experiment to test some temp with both the IR and probe type to see how far off the IR might be. One of the drawbacks of the IR on accuracy is you can't be perfectly sure where the reading is being performed. If you aim the gun off a bit you might get a reading from something close. On tires, at least for checking camber and pressure settings, the IR would perform just fine, IMHO. Now, if you have $300 and a quick pit crew, you might want to get one of the recording probe style that will keep track of all 12 temps automatically for recall later. In fact, some of them record multiple sessions.

If you are looking for exact perfectly repeatable readings then the IR pyrometer probably isn't what you want. For the racing most of us will be doing, the IR pyrometer works quite well. As 2Many has mentioned, what you are looking for are three measurements across the face of the tire. Ideally, the two outside temps should be the same and the inside temp should be about 10 degree hotter. Tires cool down pretty quickly. The time it takes you to drive from the track, down pit-in and stop at your hot-pit spot can effect temps. Pyrometers that require you to physically touch the tire take longer to get a reading. This extra time can lead to a cool down. Again, we aren't INDY teams and we don't need to be that precise, but getting a quicker measurement is best. The IR pyrometers gives those quicker readings. I've used both types and for the last four years have used the IR exclusively -- as well as my friends who race formula cars. My vote is IR.

I tried to rebuild my 71's master cylinder and ended up buying a '72 and swapping my lines. I couldn't get the rear shaft out of the cylinder. Worked on it for quite a long time -- over several days. Here's the picture of the line swap... I used the original lines, just swapped them and carefully adjusted their fit by hand.

Great advice 2Many! I've always ran about -2.5 to -3 up front and -1.5 to -2 in the rear. My rear toe is always dead on but I like to run a little toe out (1/8") sometimes on tighter tracks to help with turn in, but usually run a RCH of toe in most times. The infrared pyrometers are getting pretty inexpensive now - less than $100. Go fast, have fun.

...Play Rugby! I played Rubgy in the Air Force and don't remember any of those guys being homophobic... Anyway, that sport was way too dangerous, that's why I gave it up and started auto-racing.:classic:

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I didn't use the optional mounting kit. Since my car was gutted and I wanted to hard mount my seat, I simply took some heavy 1x3/8 bar stock and bolted two lengths to the seat bottom (front to back). I then took two 1" square tubes and welded them across the floor from the inside rocker to the transmission tunnel. I welded bolts to these square tubes with the threaded portion facing upward to bolt the bar stock on the seats to. Hope that made sense. Now, this is NOT the safest way to do it. What should be done is to use 1" round tube to create a cradle for the seat. This should all be welded to the cage. What this does during a wreck is to allow the seat to shift if the cage moves. By having things hooked to the floor, the seat could in essence be pulled out from below the car in an extremely violent wreck. Or in a less violent wreck, the cage would shift and the seat would not, which could crush the driver with the cage.

A roll hoop is the perfect way to go. Some only come with a diagonal bar. It may be best if you can buy one without a horizontal bar and have someone custom fab one in at the correct height with the seat installed and you sitting in it.

I have use a Corbeau Forza seat for the last three years and find it to be pretty comfortable. The only thing I have problems with is that I'm tall and the support at the front of the seat that bumps up hits me in the wrong spot. Other than that it holds you in pretty well even on the fast banks at Gateway. For the belts, the two heavy eye bolts fit into the original holes in the floor where the stock seat belts bolt. The sub-marine or ball-buster needs to have a hole drilled in the floor. Make sure to use the backing plates for the bolt so it doesn't pull through the thin floor metal. The shoulder belts are best attached to a horizontal bar behind the driver's shoulders. Make sure to follow the installation instructions VERY carefully as the angles for the lap belts and shoulder harness attachments are critical to help avoid spinal injuries. Racer Wholesale has the guaranteed lowest prices on harnesses. I have used the latch type and moved up to the twist-lock style. The latch type are difficult to get all five held in place and them latch them in. The twist lock is much easier -- you can click each belt in one at a time. Best of luck. Rick

You can get some good information from Racer Wholesale in Georgia -- or call them at 800.397.7811. They guarantee the lowest prices and should be able to tell you the best harness to get that you could use with a stock seat. The mounting kits for the lap belt screw into the stock holes where your OEM belts bolt. For the shoulder harness, you will probably have to drill some holes and use their backing plate mount to bolt them on. Be VERY careful at reading the directions when installing the shoulder harness. There are specific angles that you need to be aware of so you don't end up getting a compression injury to your spine in the case of an accident. You may need to fashion some type of mounting bar that goes behind the seat at the level of your shoulders.

The tie rod connects to the steering rack and at the end of it is a ball joint. The tie rod ball joint is bolted into the steering knuckle which is a short arm that faces forward and part of the spindle. Here what the tie rod end looks like: Oh, and Michael, it is amazing what you can find using Google :classic:

...because I saw two 350 Zs within a mile of each other! Who would believe one 350, let alone two in Florissant Missouri. The first was the cinnamon color (Nissan calls it Le Mans Sunset) driving North on Hwy 67 and then about an hour later a black (Nissan calls this Super Black) one pulling out of the parking lot and zooming up the same stretch of road. My wife didn't much care for it but I thought the black one looked pretty hot!

I'm thankful for a lot of things this year... ...one thing I'm thankful for is the friends I have made through this great site! Happy Thanksgiving!

The problem with the part from Advance Auto is that it is made to weld to a solid rear axle at the bottom. You can get performance inserts and springs from MSA that are straight bolt ons. If you want to do some modifying (cutting/welding) you can contact Ground Control and get their coil-over setup. $$$$ Here's the link to the Advance Auto enter the part number C2051 into the item box...

That bites -- been there. It is usually up to the scrutineer on the legality of it. I think as long as it doesn't interfere with your vision they may let it go. Worst case is that they mark it in your log and tell you that you have to change it.

Look to pay near or over $4 per foot for 1.5x.120 DOM... I like the petty bar. It can help especially in a rollover or flip where you come down hard on the top front of the windshield. Both of my cars that have been in pretty substantial front collisions -- one at 105mph - had absolutely no intrusion into the driver's compartment partially helped by the fact that I had firewall supports. I won't race a car without them. Make sure they are perpendicular to the a-pillar bar and have as large a backer plate as possible (100 square inches by the GCR). Make sure the plate is multi-angled and if possible, extend it toward the transmission tunnel. This will help since on the driver's side it will rest right behind your feet. I may have some 1.5x.120 sitting around. What lengths do you need? What car are you building -- 240,260,280? What is the minimum weight. I think you can use the 1.5x0.95 if you want. You know, if I can get my car built and 2Many gets his back together maybe we can have a 'Classic Zcar Club' road race for bragging rights... Rick

phi22b@ck, I've had to work on my windshield to get it out once the cuts were made also. Just keep slicing to make sure it is completely clear. You may have some old glue stuck from a PO or the rubber just grabs hold of the glass. Come in from behind with a single edge razor blade to release the back side. Be careful is all I can say :classic: By doing a precise silicone glue and fillet job, you can be assured of a weather proof seal. I always take the cut rubber out and place a bead of black silicone on the metal side before reinstalling it. This makes sure no water can get in there. My cars have always been outsiders and I have never had a problem with the windshield leaking. St.stephen, While I agree that if you had a street car, buying new rubber would be the correct thing to do but on a race car, the $49 could be put to use on a performance enhancing extra. I'm not discounting your post -- you always have some great things to pass on -- I'm just looking at things from a no-budget race angle. Rick

Remember when sex was safe and racing was dangerous? Anyway, according to the GCR, any lines (oil, brake, fuel) that pass through the driver's compartment must be either braided or covered in metal. I don't have a problem with braided lines. I use them no problem. If you want to be extremely safe, you could run some type of conduit with rubber lines (or braided) inside. I think this would be overkill. Install some 90 degree fittings coming out of the fuel cell into the braided lines and then another 90 degree fitting like you have shown in your diagram. From there, you could have another set of 90's that go back down to your pump and return line. I think that would be much cleaner and safer than just bending the braided line. If you clamp the line down to the bulkhead, make sure to use rubber coated clamps. It may also be a good idea to take an old bicycle inner tube and cut it to make a rubber strip to lay between the braided line and bulkhead for the full length of it. I usually error on the side of too much safety. When I was involved with local Nascar red-neck stuff I saw a lot of really dangerous (read stupid) things. ----- To put the picture in the post, I ftp the picture I want to my web server and then use the IMG button up above the entry box to point to the picture. If you don't have a web server to post the picture to, you are kind of out of luck. Plus if my server is down, or I delete the file by accident, the little x will show instead of the picture.

The grommets are more just to keep things from getting cut. If you notice fumes, you may want to put a little silicone around them later. I'm not sure where your fuel pump will be but if it is under the car, you may want to put some 90 degree fittings on the nipples (no, I'm not talking S&M here -- but it does remind me of an old girlfriend) so you can keep things out of the driver's compartment. The only problem is you would have to drill some holes in the 1" frame to get them to route out the side. Keep the pictures coming. Keeps me sane to at least see someone else be able to work on their car. Rick

Nice installation! As far as the bulkhead, you can just screw a flat piece of sheet metal to the 1" rails. Make a raised box with a lid around the fill in the middle. You can run some braided steel fuel lines out the lid -- don't forget to use rubber grommets. One note though, you might want to move the oil bottles to the other side if you are using them for ballast