hmsports

Camber plates allow you to adjust the vertical angle of your tires. Positive camber is when the top of your tire lays outward and negative is when the top of the tire lays in. As a car corners, the chasis will roll to the outside. This changes the camber angle of the tires. Most performance and racing cars have between 1/2 and four degrees negative camber. This helps during corning to keep a greater area of the tire patch in contact with the road surface -- which helps to reduce understeer and extend tire life. It also may increase fender clearance on larger tires.

Several sources: Arizona Z-Car Motorsport Auto Ground Control ... Good luck.

I have managed to salvage the dash harness as well as the forward harness. All three harnesses (rear, dash and front) complete for $100.00. There is one contector for one of the rear side marker lights that needs to be replaced and one of the front light connector blocks needs a wire re-patched in. Other than that it is in very good condition. I also have a complete set of gauges to sell. Oh, I also have the flasher switch and other toggle switch too.

When you have the car started and in gear and let off the clutch, does the engine bog and die? Start by jacking both sides of the rear of the car and placing safely on jack stands. Try turning each wheel by hand and inspecting the half-shafts underneath. This should tell you pretty much where the problem is.

Toe-in 1/8 --> This is fine. It will help you track straight. Any toe out is usually bad as the car has a tendency to wander. Any more than 1/8 toe in may cause excessive tire wear Camber left -1 right -1/4 --> This is inconsequential for the most part. At least it is negative camber (top of tire leaning inward) which is better than positive camber. You may find that your left front tire may wear on the inside edge slightly faster than the right front -- or the right front may wear on the outside faster -- solution -- rotate tires every 3-5K. Caster 3 1/4" --> I'm not quite sure about this number -- as far as it being how far out of spec -- sorry.

How about 'pay some else to do it' for a choice:classic:

I always use a socket wrench on the crank and set the engine to top dead center -- including the cam to top dead center. Then I adjust the intake and exhaust for number one. Then I turn the engine using the socket until the valves for number two are both closed -- then adjust them. Keep doing this all the way back.

Here's a very good PDF file with complete instructions from G-Force on the correct way to install harnesses: Harness Installation Instructions

There's a great article in the latest SCCA Sports Car Magazine about the useful life of belts. Sun has the foremost effect on belts. It seems that belts can lose more than 50% of their elasticity in just 6 months with direct sunlight -- especially when it is focused through glass. I know that I'm going to carry a towel in my car to cover my belts. If you want new belts, the guaranteed lowest price can be had from Racer Wholesale. They have 5 point harnesses starting at $59.00.

2Many is right on as usual here. The rail looks to be plenty strong -- the fact that it is sectioned and welded is of no concern as long as the welds are good. Yes, 2Many was talking about the weld to the floor which is more important because that is what hooks the rail to the body and needs to be strong to transfer and carry loads correctly. Over time as the body and rail flex a two sided weld will stay together but the single sided weld can seperate.

From the dash back (rear harness). Needs one new connector for the right rear side marker light. Other than that it is in very good shape. $75.00 (rear harness only) This is for a 1971, manual transmission 240Z. I may have the dash harness and the engine bay harness available also. Make me an offer on all of it. rick@hmsports.com

I don't think you could fabricate something like that on a stock Z tranny. You could spend between $5K and $15K on a sequential transmission from someone like Quaife or Hewland if you are so inclined.

Pull the valve cover off and see if a rocker arm has popped off. I've also had valve keepers pop out and then the springs and hat were rattling around with the valve just dangling in there getting pummeled by the piston.

Sounds like your floats are not adjusted correctly or the jets in the bowl lids are stuck open. Take off the float lids and check the jets to make sure they are free and not stuck.

I've always simply run a long bolt through a large diameter flat washer then through one of the end links of the lifting chain and lastly into the rear-most header hole in the head -- and at the other end, replaced one of the fuel pump bolts with a similar set-up. Done this at least a dozen times without ever hurting the head or threads.

A coilover is simply a name for springs (coil) that fit over an assembly like the Z strut towers. Most race cars -- and many street cars -- use adjustable coil over kits so they can adjust ride-height, corner weights and easily change spring rates. Here's a picture of a Tokiko coil over setup: Tokiko Illumina are simply a brand and make of strut inserts (shocks). Another (better) brand is Koni.

I haven't started working on it yet but since I'm mounting the seat to the cage and I can shift the steering column to the right about 4 inches, I think I shouldn't have any clearance problems. I'll keep you posted.

As the 'slow' build progresses, I will be posting complete and detailed pictures on my web site. I'll post the link once things get rolling. One of the first sections will be dedicated to the roll-cage build -- I'll be sure to include many pictures.

You know that MOPAR started out as the engineers saying they were going to build a car with <I>MORE POWER</I>, but the southern drawl quickly changed that to <I>MO' POWR</I> and then it was much easier to say <I>MOPAR</I> :classic:

Always been partial to Miller myself -- good ol' Rusty (the crusty dude)

Just got my Kirkey Ultimate Road Race Seat today. Here's some pics of the excellent quality throughout... Back detail. Some billet machined aluminum and the rest is punched/beveled aluminum sheet for extra strength. Very comfortable! Side with lower mountings. All billet machined aluminum. My Jr. road racer -- 4 1/2 years old -- (can't get too mad at him for his choice of drivers)

For sale - '72 heater blower assembly. $25.00

I managed to scrape up a small bit of money so I'm starting to build my 72 E-Production car :classic: Ordered 100 feet of 1.5" x .120" DOM tubing for the roll cage, 25 feet of 1" x .120" Chromoly tubing for my custom control arms and my new seat (I needed the seat first so I can make sure my cage is built to fit). I purchased a Kirkey Ultimate Aluminum Road Race Seat from i/o port racing in CA. Next step is to take my new Millermatic 175 over to my crew chief's shop to build the cage. I'll post pictures as I progress.

I always use an aluminum Griffin radiator -- as 2Many states, the Chevy version so the water ports are in the correct location. Check with Afco-Behrents -- they have the best prices - $179. I have never had cooling problems with my car -- even at 6800 RPM for 40 minutes at a time. I do run a small oil cooler which helps. My water temp is always less than 200 degrees.

One of the most impressive Rue Goldberg's I've ever seen!