EScanlon

Glad it helped you. The Petersen's book is my latest addition to my Z library, and I got it specifically to look at and address what accessories were available. Although not all-inclusive, it is by far the best listing of accessories I've seen to date. It may be that there is yet another book out there that will complement this one. (Bonus Tid Bit: Did you know there was an outfit called F.A.R. Performance out of Mountain View California that produced a 2+2 seat kit for the regular 240? This was a fibreglass shell with a pair of seats built in to fit in the back area between the rear struts!) Fast comment regarding the "actual" manufacturer of any one of the mags/rims/wheels I mentioned: I hope that no one misunderstand me to say that the ones I posted are THE companies that provided the style mentioned. I mentioned these because the book gave me names and manufacturers, I am sure there must be at least a half dozen more OTHER manufacturers with similar if not identical wheels that could be the "original" sources. Don't forget that this is a BIG country, and the manufacturer and hence the "name" to HAVE in Pennsylvania may have been totally obscure and unknown in Iowa, or Arizona or Washington. Aside all this, if you have some of these older style wheels, or obtain them for your car, you might find that getting the replacement center hubs hard to get. Depending on the look you are looking for, you can get some from J.C.Whitney or find a good full line Tire Store in your area. Here in the Pacific North West Les Schwab is excellent for that. There I found 4 Universal Fit Center Caps. I also found 3 wing "knock off" style caps for the Center caps. Unfortunately, I have not been able to locate a "Z" emblem for the caps. (MSA is NLA) If anyone has info on a nice set of Z emblems for the center caps please e-mail or message me.

Jim: I hate to give you the bad news, but it sounds as though you fried one of the resistors inside the tach. I know this from personal experience. It is replaceable, although that is NOT what I did. If you choose to fix, remove the tach from the dash. Open up the case by first removing the shroud and lens. Next, CAREFULLY remove the indicator needle by a firm and steady pull on the center directly in line with the shaft. (that is straight UP off the face) Next, remove the two screws on either side of the shaft, and you should be able to remove the face plate. Next, go to the back of the Tach. Carefully remove the wiring harness and take note of which wire goes where. Presuming that you have the Loop wire 4 wire connector and not the 3 wire, take a close look at the loop connection on the back of the tach. This has a couple plastic pieces holding a LOOP of wire within. The wire is NOT bared, and the plastic pieces may be and probably are BRITTLE. Disconnect all wiring and then remove the "guts" of the tach. You will notice that the tach is comprised of two circuit boards and the needle mechanism. There should be a resistor between the two circuit boards, and more than likely it is fried. Before you mess with it, very carefully jot down it's color stripe sequence, (i.e. gold, black, red, red, green, yellow etc.). This is how resistors are "sized" and you will need to know this when you go to Radio Shack to buy your replacement. Resolder the new resistor and you should be functioning properly. Reassembly is the reverse of these steps.

Don't take offense, but please read my post further up on this same subject. You'll see why I'm laughing. I've been through this with just about everyone that's seen, worked on, dealt with, etc etc my car. As soon as I figure out how to transfer my photos of the car to the puter and then figure out how to post the pictures here I'll do so, but till then trust me, it's a 71. Using Vic/Brit's chassis number identification chart, the car by VIN # is a 1971, but by Production Date it's a 72. :eek: Using www.zhome.com and here's the URL for those of you who want to read the whole story: http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html "THE SERIES II 240Z's were produced from Jan. 1971 through Aug. of 1971. (identified by the fresh air exhaust vents relocated to the side or "C" pillar of the car, from their prior position on the rear deck lid.) These cars were also sold as 1971 Model Year Cars here in the U.S....So both Series I and Series II Z Cars were sold as 1971 Model Year cars. THE SERIES III 240Z's were produced from Aug. 1971 through Sept. of 1972. (identified by the re-designed center console, and seats that folded forward upon release of the latch). These cars were all sold as 1972 Model Year cars, because they complied with the 1972 Safety and Emissions standards only." and using another post on the same site: http://zhome.com/History/DesignChanges.htm Begin quote:" VIN #........MFG MONTH.......COMMENT (BELOW VIN#) HLS30 48863........10 ...... Last 1971 Model Year Car Build (HLS30 51583 latest reported so far). 1972 Model Year - HLS30 48863 (earliest reported so far). Flip Forward Seats, New Hub Caps, Center Console Redesigned, gas tank door latch eliminated, 5 inch wide wheels made standard, new 4sp. trans. design, rear end moved rearward 35mm (about 1.5 inches). "End Quote So, as you can see, my car is a 71. Now, if you've read this post, my prior post and taken the time to check out the references I gave, you'll note that there are continuous references to "reported". This is due to the fact that Datsun/Nissan unfortunately hasn't given or doesn't have definitive records as to when a given production run ended and another one began. Therefore zhome is resorting to Z owners registering their cars and reporting their years and mfg. dates. Until all the VIN #'s are accounted for, this is the best we can do. Weeks ago, in discussing another member's automobile (which has a Vent on one Pillar but not the other) we entertained the notion of how different items would have their stocks run out before a given date and others after. Additionally, we might consider how the VIN # is assigned. Having worked in an assembly line manufacturing plant, the serial number MAY have been assigned "Upstairs" and not ON the assembly floor (i.e. By a file clerk processing orders and NOT the assembly man who stamped the numbers as the cars came down the line). Or by ....... The point being that while VIN # 43000 (just a guess) was SUPPOSED to be the LAST 1971, MY car VIN # 43274 IS by all the "litmus" tests known, a 1971 Production and Model and Registration Year vehicle. OR (Alternative Argument) NOT NEITHER A 72!

The original FACTORY Wheel was the stamped steel wheel that most of us have removed and replaced. Many dealers had OPTIONAL wheels that were obtained from the same manufacturer and hence these have become known as "Original" wheels, with the mistaken assumption that they were Datsun/Nissan items. Appliance, Cragar, Shelby and Superior are but a few of the aftermarket Wheel manufacturer's, that were very popular in the 70's. Their sales reps would contact the individual automotive dealers and make arrangements so that the wheels would be offered as Dealer Options. Due to the popularity of one or two of the wheel models available, whether because of actual popularity or because the price and markup to the dealer were attractive, THESE wheels have become known as "Original" wheels. ===Side Note===== By the way, the term "RIM", if I recall properly, is in error. Rim refers to the split ring used on older truck wheels, where the rim was pulled out, then the tire could be put on and off the wheel body without having to stretch the tire around the rim of the wheel. This term nowdays, is used to refer to wheels that are assembled, i.e. center / rim and then either bolted or welded. Please correct me if you've heard different. "MAG" on the other hand, is used to denote a limited number of wheels offered in the early seventies which were true blue Magnesium metal (or primarily Magnesium). These were supposed to be much better due to their added tensile strength over Aluminum, and their light weight when compared to steel. Sadly, a wheel with a lot of magnesium in it can be burned up (literally). Nowdays, it's used to refer to one piece wheels with either polished or chromed finish. ===End of Side Note===== The most popular styles were: Appliance's Models: Dish Mag, this is the one famous as the Slotted Mag. Wire Mag, this one is commonly referred to as the diamond / honeycomb / wire wheel mag. Very often seen with a painted / anodized honeycomb and chrome center and outer contours. Steel Spoke, very very common for almost ANY car. Rarely seen on Z's nowdays, but nonetheless a very inexpensive wheel hence sometimes bought after having the car for a while. This one is the typical beefy rounded spoke with the lug nut wheel area being a circle behind the spokes. 4 spoke and 5 spoke designs depending on lug nut quantity. Unichrome: This is a very common and inexpensive option of the time. It was basically a solid steel inner with a Wire Wheel Basket to make it look like a spoked wheel. Shelby: Serpent, as described in the previous posts. The ribs extend from the outer contour all the way to the center cap. Cal 500; other than the depth of the "dish" another "Slotted Mag". Viper Wheel, this one is also known as the "Libra Mag" which must be the name for another manufacturer's version. Diamondback, this is another rendition of the Wire Mag (diamond / honeycomb / wire wheel mag). This one differs in that there is a "step" in the outer contour. Cragar and Superior, were but two other manufacturers that I remember from the era. Undoubtedly there are many others I don't recall or know about. For those of you interested, much of the information was obtained from Petersen's Complete Book of Datsun copyright 1975.

I think they are Appliance's version of Shelby's Serpent Style. Where the Serpent had ribs going all the way to the center cap, the Appliance's don't.

My 71 has it on the passenger side, unfortunately it has been wiped clean by some PO and I can't tell you if it's upside down or not. Months ago, I vaguely remember running into a reference about someone that reproduces these and the other stickers for folks wanting that OEM / Concours look. Anyone know whom / where?

I tried your link and seemed to get lost. So I called Troy Thacker (owner, Too Intense Restoration) and he mentioned that the Trim parts you mentioned are for the 260/280 but not for the 240. The 240 only has the horizontal chrome strip and no wrap around. Thanks, but these weren't the ones I need. Any other leads?

Sadly, the cost of replacing the bumpers depends on the year of the car, not only for availability but also for price. Years ago, replating a bumper would have been considered ONLY for special needs / show cars that needed / wanted extra thick chrome or specialty chroming. Replating a bumper was the last resort, and buying a NEW bumper was the FIRST resort. Nowdays, it's the other way around. Check with MSA, Victoria British and see how much it would cost you to buy new, then go check with your platers. And when you check with the platers, ask if they'll strip, grind, resurface and polish the new chrome. Then you'll know which way to go.

Old Body man here, DON'T use Wood as a backing for the sand paper. The possibilities that the panel you are working on is "perfectly" flat and that the wood you will be using is also "perfectly" flat are close to impossible. Use a Hard Foam or Rubber piece as a backing pad. This is what we used in the body shop I worked at. The main reason NOT to use something hard, is that it will NOT conform to the panel, and you will end up sanding IN grooves which will exacerbate the appearance of the chip repair. The BEST method is to use a medium hard foam piece, and sand using a DIAGONAL short stroke, moving from one side to the other, then on the return move (side to side) sand again in a diagonal maner but perpendicular to your original stroke. You want to "crosshatch" sand. If you choose to sand using your hand, use the heel of your hand and NOT your fingers. Lastly, it is far better to use 500 short LIGHT strokes than 50 short HARD strokes. 2ManyZ's tip about a wood block is correct for an EXPERIENCED body man / painter, but sadly, NOT for an amateur / newbie. Where experience teaches you to let the panel guide the sandpaper, the new guy tries to make the sandpaper / block combination force the cut. Just my 2¢

MrMoonshine: One of the nastiest things about rust is that, like an iceberg, you only see the top of it, and the bottom can be HUGE! Additionally, only taking care of what you see, is like stepping on the one or two termites that fell out of the light switch hole when you change the face plate in your home. Too many times have I seen "surface" rust be rust-through. Or seen "mild" rust turn out to be serious panel weakening ready to provide Flintstone brakes in a vehicle rust. The sad fact about the 240 Z is that the engineers used very thin sheet metal in order to keep prices down, as well as doing the Japanese market "no one keeps cars longer than a few years" mindset in mind. (Did you know that there are a couple outfits that import engines and other components from "junked" Japanese mainland cars to the US, simply because in Japan they don't restore / maintain older vehicles?) Additionally, since this was their first serious directed attempt at penetrating the US market, they were not aware of many of our "quirks" and idiosyncrazies. (In Japan they do in fact, own their cars only for a few years.) So, bottom line, do the "hard" work now, it will prevent it from being IMPOSSIBLE later.

The plot THICKENS! It seems that you have an Early 71, this indicates that you did indeed have the PLASTIC Vapor tank. As to why the metal one won't fit, I would venture that the original support brackets for the 70 and early 71 were the same, and hence were made for the vent holes being in the hatch and not the roof pillar. In late 71 and on, as evidenced in my car, they did start using the metal tanks. And the reason for all the confusion, is that even though your other points, vents on the pillars and not the hatch, point to a series II you still have a lot of the series I in your car that many of the series II pieces won't fit. I'm in the same boat (remember Royce telling me I had a 72?), unfortunately, I can't help you with this part, I do have access to a Z boneyard, but finding the plastic tank may be a big problem. I will check, but can't guarantee anything since as you know, the part is old, and being plastic may not have survived well, and cost and IF there's one to be found. Have you checked with the guys at MSA or Victoria British or some of the other places who advertise Z parts? Lastly, you said you tried to fit a 72 tank. What exactly was the problem, can you work around it? If you were to modify the inner support beam could you get it to work? if so I can send you pictures of my inner beam and even dimensions. Sorry to have lifted your hopes so high only to say sorry. You might also give this guy a call; he has a boneyard in Arizona and the possibilities of a tank in his area being in better condition may be higher: Zcarsofarizona@aol.com his phone number is: 480-510-8164 Feel free to use my name, who knows it might be worth something.

I'll check, but a verbal description of it would equate it to a very ripe papaya fruit seeing as you are in San Diego, and with a last name of Serrano I figure you might --hablar español. Imaginate el centro de la papaya cuando esta bien pero bien madura, un color naranja pero todavia amarillento. Or for those of us who don't speak spanish. Imagine the center of the papaya when it is very very ripe, an orangish color but still slightly yellowish. If you don't know what papaya is, imagine a dark tangerine.

Tim what is the mfg date of your car. This way we can pin down which tank you need. Mike: Is your 71 240 a late series I or a series II, what is its manufacture date? This way we can get down to the nitty gritty details. This is good detective work by all guys.

Someone with the CD Microfiche please double check what I found on the old style Microfiche. Part Number 17350-E4600 Used until 6/71 17350-N4601 Used between 7/71 and 7/73 17350-N3400 Used between 8/73 and 8/74 17350-N4600 Used between 9/74 and 11/74 These are the part numbers for the tank in question. So, the question to Tim is when was your car manufactured? Not the registration year, the year and month listed on the drivers door jamb. My guess, is that unless he has a Series I 240 which he hasn't said he does, he can use the metal tank which is the one used between 7/71 and 7/73. I'm thinking that Mike couldn't use it cause he does have a Series I. Mike can you answer?

71 240Z AT; Mfg: 9/71 VIN# HLS30 43274 All numbers match. Console: Ash Tray / Cigar Lighter Fuse Cover Combo, Choke & Accelerator slots with no warning light from choke, Rear Window Defog Switch to rear of choke, Bi-Lateral Parking Light Switch Opening to right of Rear Window Defog Switch. Seat Belts: No retract and no indent in floor to accept retracts. Shoulder belt attaches via slotted hole, hangs from hook below quarter light window. Dash: No indent for Hazard Light Switch. Hatch: Round openings for original duct work covered with round rubber plugs. Original outer seal was 3 piece. Fuel Door: Round Keyless Latch Seats: No recline, round knob adjusts angle. Tool Storage: Hinged Openings in rear deck. Luggage Straps. Trust me on this one, it's a 71 Enrique

You definitely want to make sure between 905, 918 and 110. 905 Red (till 8/71) 918 Orange 110 Red (from 9/71 on) Too many times have I heard people say that their car was Orange and they meant Red, and others having heard that the original red was very orangish in hue mistook their true Orange as being Red. If the sticker on the radiator support is still legible (mine isn't) then check the code on it. Or pull up your carpeting or part of your vinyl covering on the tunnel to see.

A common problem with the Z distributor, whether point or electronic. The Vacuum Advance Plate which is plastic and houses a few ball bearings, is the plate on which the internal portion of the dizzy rides on. When the vacuum advance pot actuates and pulls on the rod, this is what allows the dizzy to advance timing. These things do go dry and brittle over time and eventually break, releasing ball bearings all over the inside of your dizzy. Depending on where the dizzy plate ends up when it busts, you could be right on, slightly advanced or .... And then it depends on whether or not you have enough vacuum to move the plate. When it went out on mine, my car went from peppy to DOG, and it would cough and sputter and backfire and geez....all sorts of crud. I was thinking I had blown the engine. Took it to a mechanic, figuring the worst. He did a complete tune-up, wires, timing, changed the advance plate, adjusted valves and presto zesto......zoooooooooom! 2¢

My 71 240 manufactured 9/71 (#920 Gold for anyone that has checked the Paint Code post) HAS a Metal Recovery Tank. Is it possible that the CD shows that up to a given month, they were plastic, then they were metal with a design change even later? I took one out of a 72 and it's identical to the one I have.

I used a paint from my R/C Boat Models. It is not only Water Proof, it is also Fuel Proof. It is Pactra Formula One Clear Polyurethane. Shinier than Semi-Gloss, yet not as shiny as Gloss.

Not sure of the formula. I believe it contains something similar to those high-gloss floor finish waxes, but not sure. Now that may cause some concern from everyone out there, but in the 8+ years of using it on my Acura have not had a single problem with it. I came across this product years ago when I was restoring a 77 Thunderbird with a vinyl top. The vinyl top was so sunburnt and abused that the owner had given me the ok to remove / replace or not or whatever I could do. Since I HATE replacing vinyl roofs almost as much as I do welding / brazing upside down (above me), I went about restoring it as best as I could. First I got the strongest vinyl cleaner I could, from a Marine Products house. Then after going to 6 different shops, and talking to 3 different boat maintenance places, I bought the Clear Guard. Yikes what a difference!! The cleaner removed the burnt and dried vinyl, but the Clear Guard was the kicker. It restored not only the GLOSS but ALSO the color. When I gave the owner his T-Bird back, he asked me how hard it had been to replace the vinyl. When I told him that I had not replaced it just restored it, he thought I was BS'ing him, and insisted I tell him the "truth".

Even the owner's manual recommended that the clock be periodically adjusted. They weren't supposed to be a chronometer as much as they were supposed to be a reference tool. There's a guy that sells both refurbished original clocks or the Quartz Clock from later years retrofitted into an early Z shell. Some one else correct me, if I recall his email was zclock4u@aol.com Give him a buzz and see, it might be worth it to put a new clock or refurbished.

I agree with 2manyZ's; using steel wool on chrome should only be done as a last resort, and then, depending on the damage, I would use a 000 or thereabouts grade. You might also check into a product by the POR15 people, called Artisan Metal Polish. In my opinion, one of the easiest, fastest and shiniest polish for the money, time and effort. You can also check some of the other brands/products but it all boils down to the current condition of your chrome. If you have just surface rust, and by that I mean NO pitting of the chrome, then most of the chrome cleaners out there will do what you want. It's when it goes through the chrome plating that you have problems. Another problem area is pitting due to acid rain or dried mineral (tap) water deposits.

When looking at someone's car, whether just looking or with intent to buy, you might consider that it is normally considered "gross" if you let your drool actually drip ONTO the car.

For the most part, in order to get the white faces or other color faces onto the instruments, what they've been doing is changing the face plate or putting in an overlay onto the face plate of the existing instruments. Check on E-Bay. There's a guy there who's been selling the overlays for some time. He even has some with a picture theme that starts on the left with your Speedo and continues to the right with Tach, and the three center gauges. I've seen, Yellow, Red and Silver. Apparently he has scanned in the instrument face plates and using a color printer prints them out on plastic laminate in the different colors. Although time consuming, it can be done. Personally I would recommend removing the dash so that it will be easier to remove and replace all the instruments, and while you're at it, effect a nice clean up of the back of the dash, defrost hoses and also the back of the firewall. If you get real industrious, take the time then to remove and refurbish your heater and insulation. Believe me you'll be much happier for the little bit of effort.

Three engineering students and three law students were selected to attend a conference being held in another state. Both groups decided they would take the train in order to have fun and party on the way there. When they got to the train station, the lawyers were ahead in and each bought a one-way ticket. But only one engineer got in line and he bought a single one-way ticket. The lawyers chortled amongst themselves as to how foolish the engineers were. One of them approached the engineers and asked how they were ALL intending to get to the conference with only ONE ticket. The engineering student just said "Watch and Learn." Once aboard the train, and underway, they all heard the conductor call out "Ticket, Please!" at the other end of the car they were in. Quickly all three engineers jumped into one of the two bathrooms and closed the door. When the conductor knocked on the door and asked for a ticket, the door opened a crack and the lone ticket emerged. The conductor dutifully punches it, returns it and continues on. The lawyers smiled and nodded their heads knowingly. After the conference, the lawyers, intending on not being outsmarted by the engineers, and intending on doing as they'd seen on the outbound trip, sent one of their group to buy a single ticket, but the engineers didn't bother doing that. They didn't even buy a single ticket. Once again the engineers were approached by the lawyers and asked how they planned to get home. The engineers again replied "Watch and Learn." Once again, both groups heard the conductor calling out for tickets but this time both groups head for a bathroom. A few seconds after the lawyers close the door to their bathroom, one of the engineers slips out of their bathroom, and knocks on the lawyers' bathroom and announces "Ticket, Please!" When the lone ticket gets handed out, the engineer grabs it and ducks back into his group's bathroom.