EScanlon

I'm not an engine mechanic, so I'll post my answer on the basis of what I know of engines. Since my knowledge of these systems is very basic, it might shed light in a different manner. Having a Full reservoir of Oil is NO indication that the oil is actually being moved around the engine to the different areas that REQUIRE the oil, i.e. TOP of engine. This is where the oil pump comes in, as I understand it, and it's function is to pick up the oil at the BOTTOM of the engine and PRESSURIZE it UP a tube for it to flow down through the various channels BACK through the filter etc. Someone feel free to correct my basics. That you are registering HIGH pressure on start up and LOW pressure after warming up, has me FIRST question the PRESSURE SENDER. Not the engine. It turns out that the Datsun Z engine was notorious for having bad Oil Pressure Senders. IF after checking the sender and it checks OK, then you need to address the engine.

I had voted Yes, because I would like to "know" whose question I'm am responding to, but if as you said that is only possible on the Open forum, then let them read all they want, and make them register when they post to participate. In essence, leave it the way it is.

So, the "numbers" of hits have no reference to the registered members. Does a member who stops in several times a day, count for that # of times and not ONE? Just curious? Did this change recently? I thought I had seen one or two "Anonymous" or Posts from Non-registered or something like that.

Those ARE sharp wheels but if they are what I think they are, they're going to be real spendy. Those look like authentic Wire Spoke Wheels, and last I checked into one of them, they were like $250 EACH, and they weren't too keen on guarantee / warranty

"I think if people want to donate GREAT, if not that's cool as well. I would like the oppertunity to buy a hat or a shirt just because it would make me feel more a part of "our club", and that it would help this site would just be a bonus. " DITTO What I REALLY want is a logo just like on the main logo, just the oval Z w blue / red background, on a metal plate to attach to my grille.

He is good enough to have his schedule by appointment ONLY. I heartily recommend him.

(Aside Note: Sorry if I got lengthy, typing over 120wpm makes it easy to do so.) I wrote my "thesis" not to bore you guys, but so we could consider as many aspects as we could. Small site great, but that places a larger onus on each. Does the site require funding? What does Mike think? What happens when and if the site gets very popular and now it takes up 5 times the amount of space it currently does? What about the bandwidth? If anything I'm ball-busting myself because I've been proverbially "cut off" my funds for a while, and I'm unable to effect a donation at this point.

Bluntly and succintly. This site has an incredible amount of potential, which although present has not yet been tapped. If any of you visit www.zcar.com and take a look at the activity there in any ONE of the forums, you'll know what I mean. As much activity as we have here in one day, they can match it in a few hours. Personally, as much as I visit zcar, I prefer this place (even if it does take 4 times as long to load). This place needs to be promoted, in order for it to be as busy as zcar. BUT HOLD ON!! Before we all go out and start mass e-mailing everyone we know that owns, likes, or has ever SEEN a Z-car, think of this. Part of the cost of running this place is no doubt the amount of bandwidth it uses. For those not familiar with that, think of it this way, How many people stop by AND how many items they look at. The server that houses the information included in this site, charges for the volume of bytes it transmits via the internet connection related to this site. The more people you have requesting the home page, the more bandwidth this site uses, and therefore, gets charged more by the owning server. Usually these fees are offset by using advertising, or user fees, or as is probably the case, the "deep" pockets of some altruistic individual that's been doing it cause ... However, deep pockets can run dry, and sometimes they can only do it for a given period of time, before it gets to be a major nuisance. (If you don't believe me, remember your old friend (X) who used to borrow money from you all the time but never paid it back? When did you finally get so "p'eed" off at him that you told him to get lost, regardless of how good a friend he was?) In order to get people here AND keep them coming back, there have to be items that, bluntly, are available here that aren't available elsewhere, both FREE and for those that have "paid" the dues. This site offers picture hosting, I've not seen at other sites. There is a chat room, there is instant messaging, there is news feed. Need I say more? This place has everything it needs to literally ROCK. But before we open the doors wide and invite the masses, we need to realize that we could literally bankrupt Mike, and find ourselves kicked out of house and home. Cash contributions are a good way for this site to recoup or get the funds necessary to continue to operate, i.e. the electricity, the server fees, the phone fees and other fees involved in just keeping it plugged in, turned on and running. However, some individuals have, for WHATEVER reason, reasons for not wanting to effect that type of contribution. That's where the sale of items that generate a profit comes into play. Don't ask me why, but just giving money away grates on my wife's nerves. Give me a silly mousepad or coffee cup that I won't use but I got "something" for my money, and my wife doesn't mind within reason (she won't let me get that huge coffee cup at Starbucks). This site ALSO needs the services of Moderators and Contributors as well. The moderators ensure that no one is posting bad material as well as keeping an eye out for trends / individuals that may be undesireable. This isn't a discussion on those, just on the function of the moderator. Contributors come in two major varieties, the ones who have a lot of questions, and the ones who have a lot of answers. Some of the first like to test those of the later, some of the later like to feel that they are knowledgeable or important enough to earn some sort of recognition. Again, not being a discussion of what constitutes a contribution, nor what motivates contributors, we'll keep on. All of these components are what make a site successfull. If you lack any one of these, then the place can literally die for lack of a better word. I mention this last because I've been in and out of the Chat room half a dozen times. I can only recall ONE time when someone else was in there. I DON'T WANT TO SEE THIS SITE FADE AWAY! Mike has the final say in this, and I don't even imagine that what I write here is anything other than reference material for him, and hopefully I don't offend him or anyone. As much as you may wish to maintain this place completely open and free to all, you need to identify areas that are available only to certain tiered users. You already do so, in that unregistered members can't go everywhere. What you need to do is define that THESE areas are for those people who've contributed X amount of credits, THOSE areas are for those who've contributed a bit more, and finally these last areas are only for those who have reached this level, while at the same time, brand new registered users can only glimpse here and here. The requirements for given areas would be based on points within a given time frame. That way someone who wants access all the way to the top of the pyramid, can effect a sizeable cash contribution and be allowed in. Conversely, someone who is posting a lot of answers has received credit for that and only needs a smaller cash outlay, if at all. Moderators also would have reduced requirements for maintaining their access to various places. All of the items I mentioned previously must be weighted and assigned some sort of "value" towards maintaining this site. Obviously the cash contribution weighs heavy, but Moderation is a required item, and as Administrator, I'm sure Mike is willing to assign some value to others doing what he may find is a burden on his time, or a chore. Contributors, people who post often, and continuously are what give you the base of knowledge that makes this place a VALUABLE resource. Each one deserves a share of the credit towards making this place successful. In essence you value their contribution by assigning "credits". Cash Contributions let's say that each buck is worth 100 points. Each moderator receives 25 or 50 points for logging on to the site, and in turn assigns 5-10 points for every answer to a question that a user posts. Articles written and accepted for inclusion in the "Reference Library" are valued by the moderator of that forum or the Administrator of the site. The object is to allow those people who just log on and either can not or will not effect CASH contributions to still participate in the development and improvement of the site. In order to do so, certain elements of the site will have to become tiered. i.e. available only to members in "GOOD" standing, or bluntly, those who've paid for the privilege, whether with money, or by contributing, or by getting involved and performing services this site needs, or by buying coffee cups, badges, t-shirts etc. There are so many more things to mention, and I hope I haven't bored you guys to tears. Mike, I apologize if you fell asleep. I'm not trying to say that it must be this way. What I am trying to say is this: I give you 20 bucks. I'm now a supporting member, great! For how long do I get to keep that icon? A week? A year? Forever? What if I give you a $100? Does that mean I can go 5 times as long before I contribute again as opposed to the $20 buck guy? How long is 5 times forever? How do you propose to continue receiving contributions once you've used up the money you received this time around? So back to my selfish question, how long does $20 bucks give me the right to say "I'm a supporting member"? And what if I just provide the answers to a bunch of people's questions and therefore provide what people come to this site to find...ANSWERS. And, what if I help administer this site? Or what if I buy a bunch of merchandise that this site sponsors? See what I mean. Hopefully I didn't obfuscate the issue. This is getting deep, but it is extremely interesting. Mike I hope that you can see that there are many of us who definitely want to help keep this site going. The manner and amount of what we each can do is by no means a judgement of our intent, each person has different strengths. 2¢

Although it is definitely pointing to a Series II there are still a couple items that could make it a Series I. You haven't mentioned if you do in fact HAVE the vents in the C-Pillar. That is, do you have the round "Z" emblem just aft of the quarter lights? (this indicates a Series II) As far as the retracts on the seat belts, look on the floorpan, near where the seat belt bolts to. Is there a "pocket" there? If there is that's the pocket for the seat belt retract mechanism. (This indicates a Series III) The Throttle Cable and Choke Cable side by side is definitely a Series I and an early one at that by US standards. The throttle cable was obsoleted very early, as it was deemed a safety hazard. How about your doors? 2 step detent? And lastly the fuel tank vapor recovery unit is hidden behind the plastic panel on the same side as the fuel tank access door. (Right Hand Side, unless you RHD chaps really are completely flipped around.) It's a minor point, but as Mike can atest, it is an indicator.

Regarding someone being "bright" and with "bad habits" I'd rather not use those references, nor imply that anyone here is brighter (smarter) than another. We EACH have our "bright" points. Logic is one of mine, and so is being anal retentive meticulous about how and with what I restore my car. But I will admit to being dumber than a box of rocks when it comes to the mechanical stuff that goes on inside the engine. I know the basics, but why this ring instead of that ring, unless you have a couple hours in which to explain....I'll admit I'll just take it to my mechanic and let him have at it. In fact, even after the explanation, I'd probably take it to him. I know some of MY limitations, and that's one of them. This just happens to be one of MY "bright" points. Hopefully when I'm posting "Why does this Thingg-A-Ma-Jig affect that Doo-Hickey like this?" type question, then you guys will discover YOUR "bright" spots and help me out. QUID PRO QUO. As far as being patient, wait till you try to explain something to me and then wonder who needs to be patient. Enough, you get my point. We all like & endeavour to improve and maintain our Z's. That's the common thread through us all. That you know Differentials, and someone else Suspensions, and someone else ....and you know Jack Schitt about the other parts, that's what makes this site so valuable to us all, we each contribute what we can, and derive from it what we need. Nuff Said. Regarding the 70 registration automatically being a conclusion that it MUST be a Series I. I said it is a GOOD indication, not that it was PROOF. There is a series of situations that could result in a Series II being registered as a 70. Easiest of all? Clerical error. When the car was re-registered after a sale, a clerk inadvertently changed the registration to 1970. Granted you could make up all sort of Machiavellian or Rube Goldbert type scenarios, but it doesn't really matter, as it is just an INDICATION. The vehicle itself is what must give you the "proof". Alfa saying his tool compartments being IN the rear deck and not the plastic covers behind the seats and in front of the rear deck, says Series II. His Hatch says Series II. We need to find out about the other indicators, to say it's a I or a II. So, Alfa, once again, could you check off those items on your car that indicate what year your car is?

I just spent a bunch of money on PayPal and have maxed my allowed limit (My Owner has me on rations). I do want to contribute, and I will but you are catching me by the short hairs right now. I was coming on line to post that having checked out that cafepress site, I think it would be a good solution for the site. The artwork for the items could be a selection of A) the red / blue Z logo alone, same logo with the 240Z car background C) The other logo in the center of the page. The different items available you could automatically upcharge by 4-5 bucks EACH and still find people willing to buy them. Especially if they're both supporting your site AND getting a snazzy Cap, Shirt, Coffee Mug, Mouse Pad etc etc. You wouldn't have to mark up ALL items that much, but a 10-20% mark up wouldn't be excessive. In ADDITION to that, you could have the "Supporting Member" tag to give recognition and credit to those people who have gone and done a CASH donation. But by doing BOTH, you would have better sources of ongoing income than cash donations. Otherwise, just how often do you think the "supporting members" are going to do so? Once a Month? 6 months, a Year? And what about the guys that are doing most of the answering of the posts, or moderating a forum, should they still "support"? These are valid questions, and with my preface, people are probably going (he's just a tight-wad) when in fact I just bought over $500 worth of parts to try to get my baby back on the road and asking the wife for even another $20 bucks right now, well, let me phrase it this way, could one of you guys ask your wife / girlfriend if they have a few spare panties? Cause I'm certainly not going to have anything left to require Boxers or Jockey's after I ask for more money. (You know what I mean Vern?) So, Mike would you check out that site? It may be that you could be "selling" shirts, mugs, and caps very soon and reaping some money to support the site.

Ok guys, at the risk of repeating myself, if I haven't done so a couple times already. Trying to identify whether a vehicle is a Series I, II or III based on what features it has now, without knowing the complete total detailed history of the car is an exercise in logic, and sometimes, circular logic. Items or features of the car that are not easily removed or replaced are easier to use to "type" the car than items that are a known weak spot and hence easily and commonly replaced. I'm referring to the hatch. It is a known problem item, they rust, they break, they get hit, they ....end up being replaced quite often. The chances that a 1970 Series I got a replacement hatch from a boneyard mid 1980 or 90 just before the current owner got it? Good to Very Good. Now, let's find out about his vents, or his tool compartments, or whether or not he has the retracts for the seat belts, or whether his fuel vapor recovery tank is metal or plastic. Those items will be more of a "tell-tale" than the hatch. That his car is registered as a 70 is a good indication that it IS a 70, and therefore a Series I, his hatch not having vents is a good indication that it has been transplanted from a Series II, not that his car is a Series II. Follow my reasoning?

My apologies Alfa, I'd looked at the Gold Z and not the Red Z. Yes, now that you mention it, it does look a bit odd. I downloaded the picture and blew it up in size and it almost looks as though those aren't the correct Datsun emblems. Ok, emccallum, give it up, what gives?

Sadly, I think this thought, although sounding real nice, won't wash. If they would be willing to do something like this, they would do it on their own website. And anyone that's gone to their website knows that it is a very limited website. (http://www.zcarparts.com/) Heck, they don't even list their products. The key to making this work is to offer them the services of someone to be a "clerk" and forward the questions to them and post their replies. The main problem there is going to be for someone at MSA (or the like) to actually respond to the questions posed, in a timely manner. This would allow them to have access to the features of this website that their site does not have due to the limitations of their programming. (Ask Mike, but the software for maintaining forums is nothing like what they have. Theirs is plain HTML coding that anyone with Microsoft Word can replicate.) But now, it might not be cost effective for Mike to incur all these ADDITIONAL tasks only for a few bucks, and then you have the problem that the cost may be too high for MSA or others. Speaking as a manager, which is what I do (Sales), and putting myself in their shoes, I look at this offer as being "nice" but not being worth the money. After all, "I" already have an 800 telephone number and any customer can call me and ask me anything about my products and I'll answer. The only thing you offer, is that people could then read other people's questions, AND NOT CALL ME. Well, I kind of WANT them to call me, cause they might go ahead and buy the part right then and there, and I also have the opportunity to suggest sell something else. Sorry, but this is a hard-sell item. I still think that offering items that the various users of this site would want, at a profitable margin is the best, aside from outright donations as the guys at zcar.com have done, when click-through's went down in number. But then again, just my 2¢

Well I downloaded the picture and tried to play with it, but the main problem is that it is a .GIF which is the lowest and least modifiable picture format. I'd be willing to give it a try if Mike could send me the original picture file but in as high a resolution as possible, that way I can edit it down. There's a shop here in Portland OR that did some awesome decal work for a friend of mine's R/C boat. I also seem to recall someone at Saturday Market doing some Cloisonne type work, both of which I could approach and report back.

Maybe it's the rest of us, but the only angle I see is the lean of the DATSUN. Surely, that's not what you are referring to is it?

I would say you are right, but I am not sure (maybe someone else knows for sure) if Datsun differentiated between the Right Hand Drive production and Left Hand Drive. In other words, I'm not sure if you have the 1031st RHD car or the 1031st 240Z, Right OR Left hand drive. Anyone?

I've learned a couple things from this post from what I was taught. The epoxy primer under bondo is new, but then again I was a body man back in 1983, funny thing, that's what I did on several panels of a 1976½ Mercury Capri II, but not on all, and yes many years later the parts of the car that had the bondo falling off were the un-primed ones. Just goes to show that the learning goes on, and what "everyone knows" does change. The old bondo on bare metal was what we were shown by the factory reps pushing their product. In fact, they would do it the same way. One note though, and this is critical. No one has pointed out that epoxy primer can be top coated or have other coatings put on it within a short period of time after it's been shot. After that time period, you MUST scuff off or sand off the top "skin" or even paint won't stick to it properly. This varies by manufacturer, but for the most part it's betwen 24 and 48 hours. Since you do have to let the epoxy set, shoot it in the morning, and bondo in the afternoon. I still want someone to discuss whether or not the panel should be prepped with a slap-grind of 24/36 grit to leave gouges or teeth for the bondo to adhere to. Regarding GuyCali's question about sequence of events: For what it's worth, on all the cars that I've worked on, and even at the body shop I worked at, we had one adage: Get the Mechanical work done first! In fact, the body shop where I worked was owned by a large trucking outfit, who ALSO owned it's own mechanic shop. Any truck would FIRST go to the mechanics who would totally rebuild the truck, engine, tranny you name it. When they were done, then and ONLY then would we get the rig. If there was something we had to do in between their mechanical processes, we would get it in on "loan" (painting engine compartment, engine, tranny) and the unit would go back until it was ready for BODY work. So, my advice, and using the items you listed, my numeration would be: 1. Rebuild/modify engine 2. Swap transmission and differential 3. Rebuild/customize suspension 4. PAINT INTERIOR (or make sure paint is good) 5. Install roll bar/cage. 6. INTERNAL PAINT TOUCH UP (check for damage) 7. DO EXTERNAL REPAIRS TO BODY PANELS (dents, etc) *8A. If Fender Flares / Body Kits are the weld on or graft on type then do these next OR *8B. If they are the bolt on type I would attach and then REMOVE them from the vehicle. 9. DOUBLE CHECK BODY for damage from flares / body kits. 10. PREP FOR PAINT; BODY AND ANY PARTS TO BE ATTACHED (Final out repairs, bondo; Prime vehicle and wetsand smooth) 11. PAINT BODY AND PARTS 12. UNMASK CAR====THEN WALK AWAY (this is critical) 13. LET PAINT CURE FOR 2-3 DAYS 14. CAREFULLY remount external items to car (Bumpers, painted parts, emblems etc) 15. WASH CAREFULLY WITH ONLY WATER AND DO NOT WIPE HARD WITH RAG. 16. WAIT NO LESS THAN 90 DAYS FOR WAXING That's my 2¢

Don't know about the rest of you, but I find the "logo" in the upper left hand corner of the site to be extremely eye-catching. I'm sure that there is someone in the group here who is both artistic enough and able to make either a sticker or a metal badge type emblem to bolt on the grille of the car. Personally I prefer the metal grille badge. (Anyone remember the MG's and other British / European cars with all those flashy metal emblems on the grilles?) I think that tastefully done you could easily sell it and make enough of a profit to help support this site. Thoughts?

The "diode" referred to is more than likely the resistor I told you of. The problem between the coil and tach is possible but impossible to diagnose at this point. The reason for not being able to diagnose is simple, the tach works in an inverse method to what is commonly thought. It doesn't use the current from the coil to actuate the needle, doing so would actually be a problem as it would reduce current going to the plugs. What it does is sense the current on one side of a graduated relay, and based on the number of "ticks" from the coil, it graduates the current that DOES go to the needle assembly to indicate the number of revolutions. Since your tach goes to red line, the "choke" or limiting factor on the circuit is blown, that's why it is going to red line. In essence the needle assembly is receiving a full 12v full amperage current and not the graduated current that the internals of the tach are supposed to meter. If you had stated that your tach didn't indicate anything when the engine was running, THEN you have an indication of wiring problems to the coil. The Tachometer in the 240's is an integral part of the firing circuit. If you disconnect it, the engine won't run without your inverting the connection to the coil FROM the tach. This is the most common area of trouble with upgraded distributors and the original 240 Tach. But, just my 2¢. Let us know what you find.

You mention that the gas smell seems to come from the front of the car. The 240 has fuel lines running to and from the engine to the fuel tank. That is TWO lines. These lines alternate between rubber and metal a couple times along their length. You may have a leak in one or both of those lines at any one of the transition points. Additionally, you may have a broken fuel filter, a bad hose leading to the mechanical fuel pump, and / or a bad mech. fuel pump. So, put your car up on stands and start tracing those lines. You may find that it is a simple rubber hose, or a hose clamp that needs replacing, but you may find something else.

If there is a clear coat on the wheels, save yourself a chunk of time and remove it using paint stripper. I would recommend the Aircraft Stripper available at your automotive paint store. Within minutes of application it will bubble and wrinkle the old finish and allow you to scrape it off. Although the container says to use metal scrapers, for what you are doing a plastic scraper will work, just rinse it off here and there. By the way, lacquer thinner works faster to "cut" the stripper, although water will also, it takes more water and longer to do so. After you've removed the stripper, wash the wheels down real well and then polish as you wish to. Finally, protect your wheels with some sort of final finish product. Whether you use Clear Coat paint, Metal Polish / Protectant, or Clear Powder Coating to do so is your choice. Heck, if you're a glutton for punishment, polish them once a week! By the way, it IS possible to remove any scratches or pits you may have acquired due to the age / exposure of the metal, it may involve some very careful sanding with various grades of sand paper, but if you are careful and attentive to detail you should be ok.

What he said. He's stated it perfectly. My only question is that if you are ALREADY going through the trouble and hazzle of doing POR-15 on the backside of the fenders, frame and other areas why would you skimp on the rest of the metal inside the fenderwell? I would think, and this is just my thought, that if you can afford it, except for the very most exterior part of the metal, I would literally DIP the whole car in POR-15. And the only reason I wouldn't do the exterior part of the metal, is that I would want to do the nicest, smoothest, most beautiful paint job I could, and POR-15 does say that it is literally rock hard afterwards and hence difficult to use as a base material for nice finishes. Lastly, if what you are worried about is that someone could look inside your wheel well and say, hey what's this black stuff, you CAN paint POR-15 with your car's color, you just have to time it just right after you apply the POR-15. Check the instructions, as it outlines how to do it. Myself, I plan on using the POR-15 everywhere underneath the car, and even inside the passenger compartment. Then in the fender wells, I plan on spraying a nice thick coat of Body Shutz. The reasoning is two fold. One, it does provide SOME sound attenuation which is important, and two, it both protects the finish (granted it will be POR15) but it also allows for mud / snow to fall off because they can't stick well. (it also provides some rock chip protection to the POR) 2¢

I also had the 3 piece hatch seal that had disintegrated into three dozen very hard and broken up fragments. I checked the "original" replacements, and from asking others found out that unless I was doing a concours restoration (i.e. TOTALLY and ABSOLUTELY stock, just as it came from the factory, or "I bought it and never drove it, just stored it since then" school of thought), I should buy the later one-piece seal as it works much better for rain. Since I live in the Pacific North West, and we occasionally get Sunshine to break up our normal year round rain, this was the way to go. Looking around the boneyards was a waste of time, since the seals are mostly gone on the cars there. Looking at new parts made me blanche. Then in talking to Andy Russell (The Datsun Dude), he let me know that he had access to a very good and reliable aftermarket replacement seal that was as good as if not better than the original Datsun one piece seal. I bought one, and believe me it is everything he claimed. Contact Andy at z@datsundude.com or at (480) 217-7322 for pricing. He is familiar with what's required to ship to Australia. Regarding your original (remember?) question. Forget what "they" told you. Get the 240Z Pillar Badges (note: they're no longer available in metal, just plastic. I have one of the ones in metal, but the chrome isn't perfect.) Andy sells these for $50US / pair. The Hatch Vent Grilles, KMack has a set for $10 each, but he's mentioned a couple imperfections, Andy has them for $55US / pair. Anyhow, hope you've gotten enough information to do your car right! Good Luck, and keep us posted.

I think the biggest thing to point out here is that what you are looking for is something to support and distribute the pressure exerted on the sand paper EVENLY. Metal, Wood, Plastic, and other similar rigid materials won't let you FEEL the sandpaper working on the paint. Since you are repairing CHIPS and not the whole panel, it is even MORE critical that you feel the cutting stroke. I'm speaking from my own experience, it may be that you feel comfortable with a rigid block, but I personally would rather have a semi-rigid foam block or even a rubber block to support the foam. There is a tool out there that is essentially a metal shaver, but this tool is to cut the bump OFF a run, sag, or even a hair, dirt etc off a DRIED and hardened paint job but not for a chip or scratch. For those you need to blend the edges of the chip down, so that when you paint it will flow out and hide the transition.