AWC

Here's my advice, feel free to ignore it. I'd say that you would be better off buying a decent runner that needs some ongoing maintenance/going over than buying a full-on project car. Why? A runner is going to be more rewarding because you will get to enjoy it on the road as well as enjoy any fixes/upgrades as you go along. You will learn a lot going over the car and fixing what needs to be tweaked versus being totally overwhelmed by something that is really far from getting back on the road. Actually if you could find something that "ran when parked a couple of years ago" that may be perfect. Then you would need to check out the fuel system, brakes, battery, etc., but could probably get the car running in a matter of weeks. This kind of car will also be priced at the biggest discount to its actual value when running because most people will not even consider buying a car that isn't currently running, so there is low demand. Also, it will probably be easier to find a good example of the kind of car described above in a 260 or 280z. Like you I think the 240s are cooler, but 260s are pretty cool and there is nothing wrong with a 280 either. At your age a nicer 260 may be preferable to a beater rust-bucket 240. Then someday you can save up for that full-on 240 restoration project, when you have more time and a place of your own.

I had my roadster dash done by the folks in WA. It came out very nice, but I cannot yet speak to the fit because I have not reinstalled it. The cost was around $600 plus shipping.

Awesome! Those 510s are great and that one looks like it is brand new. Does it have the L16? There is no 510 site as good as this one, but I believe there is still a mailing list and the DimeQuarterly site has some good reference information on it. Man--that's the sweetest station wagon ever!

I feel the same way you do and am using lead-free body solder (from Eastwood) on my roadster. I bought the kit for around $200 and will just use a small self-contained propane bottle-torch from Home Depot. Since that stuff doesn't have lead you can sand it without worry and get your panels nice and smooth. If your damage isn't too extensive you could probably do the same. Just get the metal back as close to right as possible before using any filler.

Cool. Did you consider other yellows like the 350z yellow or Spec-V Sunburst? I'm thinking of yellow as well and trying to decide which one.

So your car is a RHD? Cool. You can get the roadster Fairlady emblems here: http://www.datsunparts.com/1430

Interesting. Sounds like the auction is definitely the place to sell and not to buy. Too much dumb money floating around. I wonder what the most profitable type of car to restore and sell is? It would have to be something with lots of unrestored examples, few restored specimens on the market, a broad market appeal, and readily available parts.

I have the HF parts washer and use Simple Green in there diluted with hot water. I like the fact that it is biodegradeable. That stuff is a good degreaser but probably requires more scrubbing (elbow grease) than your more hazardous chemicals to get parts really clean. While you are at HF buy one of their big rock tumblers and use it to polish up the parts after you clean them. You can get the tumbling media from Eastwood or just use sand + Simple Green.

Try http://www.discpads.com. They sell DBA products.

Victor--you found me! Yeah, the "C" stands for Conner and the "A" is for Andy. I actually joined this forum first because I was going to get a 240 before I decided on the roadster. I still cruise this site all the time because there are countless excellent general and Datsun-related restoration tips here. I also plan to get that 240 at some point, after the roadster is done. Maybe I'll do a 510 first...(mydatsun510.com???)

They are sweet little cars. Check out my project: http://www.mydatsunroadster.com

Yeah, I've seen a 212 as well. Cool pictures. I have a 1968 2000 currently undergoing restoration and it is nice to see these pics.

I think getting the application correct gets you most of the way there. I know from experience that Rustoleum is very tough stuff (being an enamel). I doubt there is any magic to the Tremclad formulation. I was also very interested to see that the Rust Paint comes in a "clear" color. It would be very interesting to roll on a couple of coats of this over the six coats of color and see what kind of gloss results. They mentioned that over on the other forum as well.

Awesome--keep us posted. Can't wait for the pictures. Sounds like you came up the application learning curve pretty quick, the last side being the best, which is encouraging. Are you using the Rustoleum Industrial Enamel or the regular Consumer variety Rustoleum Stops Rust paint?

Victor, that totally sounds like that scene out of Tommy Boy!

If you can locate it nearby, let me know. I'll do some test panels and post the results here. This has me interested enough to take the first step (which is more due diligence).

Yeah, I read the full 10 pages as well. It is yet unproven. Hey Go240--would you be willing to schelp across the border and buy a gallon of Tremclad and ship it to me for some testing? I'll pay you in advance.

Restoring one of these cars can be extremely fun and rewarding. It is also guaranteed to demand tremendous amounts of your time, attention, and money. Given your family situation you should seriously consider if you have much of those three things to spare. That said, if this is an early car in very good condition that sounds like a good prospect for a project car at a very reasonable price. I'd suggest your next step to be to return to the car and get much more detail on what it is and what kind of condition it is in.

How much do you want for the car?

I guess you are looking for another one now.

My daily driver is an 03 Spec-V. Just make sure you drive a Z a few times before deciding to trade in your Spec. It is a lot different. I'm not trying to discourage you, but you should go into this with your eyes wide open. One thing that is nice to have with an older/project car is a lot of garage space. Learn as much as you can prior to buying so you can choose the one you want. The pics you posted of that yellow 240 look really nice.

Rust will probably be a problem for this car, given that it is from Houston. That said, it seems like a good deal on a decent condition car and probably an excellent entry-level Z. Since it isn't an early 240 and you are looking for a driver not a restoration, rust should not be a huge concern provided the car isn't falling apart. At your age you will probably have this car a few years, have a ton of fun with it, and then move on at some point. It should also be a good car to learn about working on cars on. I'd say go take a look at it and take $500 cash. Definitely drive it. If it runs and looks good to you make an offer to buy it on the spot.

Thanks again Ken. It was a pleasure to meet you and I'm very happy with my new rims.

I sent you a PM on these.