240260280z

Engine Harness: 1973 Engine Wiring Harness.zip

Electrical Wiring Diagram: wiring diagram.zip

Reference Material: FSM Electrical Chapter:1973 BE Body Electrical.pdf Corrective Fuel System Upgrades: 1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf

I'm helping a friend restore his 1973 240z so I figured I'd throw some data here for all to enjoy.

Temptation to be a hypocrite: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.autosportlabs.net%2FMegaJolt_Lite_Jr.&ei=V94eVd7TK8L2yQSdrYKgCw&usg=AFQjCNGpJIB15_DVs_6XxY1CunXyN3vGkA&bvm=bv.89947451,d.aWw I want one with carbs later this year.

just keep all of the original parts and put back to original form when you sell. Keep all nuts, bolts, washers, wires, parts etc. You can even swap motors... just keep original for later.

New emulsion tubes if you don't want to play with yours.

It is difficult to see this in your plots above. Most of the data is below 14 apart from when you shift. If you are really going lean on the dyno then consider: Raising the fuel level or closing the holes on the higher end of your emulsion tubes above the fuel level to bring main fuel in earlier.

thanks! I was able to get just the pistons from a vw site in western Canada. Now I'm trying to determine whether to go with floating or pressed.

For the archives, I found the low compression variant (thanks steve): 38.0mm compression height: http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=1_2668 I just ordered the 39.5mm ones and will shave to fit... a new build begins.

Mr. Catayama approved.

bp6es is fine. Adjust your jets so that all plugs look like this after a 5min run on the highway up to Colón at 130km/hr Pull over every 5 min and adjust jets until you get close like this: or [brand new plug] or

I bought used 280z style with amber from Japan for $300 in 2005.

Got me

2nd opinion is warranted

I am not sure if it is in fact an automatic. The fields look strange. Front wheel drive V8 automatic??? Buy it and you will make lots of $$ when you sell. Put $10k into it and you will have a $35k car today.

This would be a better investment: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/cto/4910275309.html The value of series ones is only going up. They are just as much fun as a 280z

Scrape away any corrosion with a scribe then squirt a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF at the margin where the broken bolt meets the block. Tap on the remnants of the bolt with a small hammer. (assuming it is above the block surface). Do this for at least a 2 hour period every 15min or so then try to grab onto the bolt remnants with tightly clamped vice-grips and turn.

If the piston rises too fast (thin oil), the fuel droplets fall out of suspension and the constant velocity drops. This makes a lean bog. Bumps in the road can also cause fuel changes. The opposite happens if the oil is too thick: the piston rises slower, the air rushes through faster through a smaller area (not CV) and it pulls more fuel. This makes a rich bog.

Nope, you may wish to prime at the pump to get things flowing. You can suck it up and pinch the hose to the pump... been there. Also pull your plugs when you crank to get the fuel up to the motor w/o wearing out the battery.

A winter thought: Is the thermostat working and keeping the engine hot? A cold engine burns a lot of fuel and runs rich.

Oil only affects transitions when accelerating and decelerating. It will not affect idle.

You are lucky to have a few to choose from! The replacement LED is part 1895. It has to shine down 90 degrees to the socket axis. An LED would run cooler and enable removing the metal heat shields. Fill the socket and connections with dielectric grease.

Wiring Assembly One clear connector cover is being de-yellowed currently How the sockets work.