240260280z

Again there is a front (on right) and rear shoe (on left)

Note: There is a front and a rear shoe. The difference is the distance from the liner to the end.

More Pictures

Pictures

Bussman: http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/01e5795a-2857-422e-85c0-62eb8b13d2c5.pdf This Z expert's site mentions the BRown / Red typo: http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_157/products_id/904

Machine shop with a lathe can build you one or You can use a metal foil tape to wrap the inner pipe to build up a spacing... It should not rattle after it degrades from the heat of welding and exhaust.

http://dirtys30.blogspot.com/2010/11/l28-teardown-complete.html

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2969745/1977-datsun-280z/page-3

Pull plugs and show us a photo of them. Tips for removing head: Secure timing chain tensioner Put motor at "top dead centre" Remove 2 small bolts at front of head underneath first Use block of wood and hammer blows if head is stuck Clean all headbolt holes Buy headgasket that matches block If you have an oil bar, remove and flush it out by spraying carb cleaner through holes When reseating head, make sure cam is at tdc Check head for cracks http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/crackedhead/index.htm Check head for flatness spray foam (shaving cream or similar) in cylinders when cleaning block surface then vacuum it out with the trapped debris

Dropping tank on '77: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

Can you insert long thin wooden shims/spacers/popsicle sticks between the two, weld, then pull out the spacers?

Found this on line:

Sorry, I thought I had the 76 stock and upgrade details in the tech tip. Here is the appropriate section of the 76 schematic that I cleaned up (see attachment) It is close to the 77: and you can see 77 details here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html Note the similarities in the coil wiring.... and ballast wiring:

All 77's I have seen have 3 red and 1 black. Any original owners out there with 3 brown and 1 black?

Dave, Try the Polish method for KS... a flat of 24 beers! - relaxes passages - numbs pain - flows My good friend Tomek (Polish) was recommended this unofficially from his doctor (Polish). He said he can't remember anything after 18 beers... woke up much later and the stone had passed. Also it is a great excuse for getting drunk or getting caught drunk .

All here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Congrats! That job is easier with a friend... so a pat on the back for solo-ing it!

I did some digging... a lot actually and found this doc online with the so-called "Pacific Table". It does not say that the "fusible element" table applies to fusible links but it does have them in the same section as well as colour matched brown examples. It also says that fusible links are usually 4 wire sizes smaller than the wires they protect. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb1.pdf

I am tempted to cut the whole darn box section out and replace with a re-fabricated one or graft in one from a donor car.

Wayne is a z expert from Ottawa who is a friend and sent me the table ~ 7 years ago in email.

The parts are the four bolts that hold the two vertical flat steel plates that run on each side of the differential's rear cover. These bolt the plates to a box section cross beam under the rear hatch's floor. (see attachment for gory details) and photo of what it should be. I tried drilling but no luck... could not drill into the hard steel. I think I may have hardened the bolts by heating then spraying with canned freezing spray.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html