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About jazfe

  • Rank
    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Occupation
    Flight Engineer

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1977 280Z, Silver with black interior
    1969 Triumph Spitfire, 2.8L Chevy V6 with T5 trans, Indigo Ink Pearl with black interior, frame off restoration is almost complete.
    1996 People mover Town & Country

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  1. jazfe


    Since the struts came in the mail yesterday I opened the FSM and read up on replacing the cartridges. Everything in the manual is spot on with the exception of rear struts. I disconnected the axle, brake line, upper side of the sway bar and parking brake cable. Removed the three nuts on the top of the strut then used a 2x4 to pry down on the lower control arm. The strut popped right out and hit me on the arm.........ouch..................but I didn't have to remove it completely from the car. I just attached the spring compressor to the unit while it was still attached to the control arm and changed out the strut. Easy. I used a bottle jack to inch the strut back into the three holes on the upper mount. Standing by the side of the car pushing the strut into place while pumping the jack with my foot. I'm sure it wasn't pretty but when you don't have help it's one way of doing it.
  2. A radiator shop should be able to boil and rod it for very near the price you quoted for the cheapo radiator. Then that way you still have the original equipment.
  3. FastWoman you are just a wealth of information. Thank you. I will order one of "sam_the_diesel_man"s check valves and report back.
  4. My 77 280 starts fine after the first start of the day so I'm sure I need a new check valve to keep the fuel pressure in the system over night. Would anyone know where a fella could purchase such an item without buying the whole fuel pump?
  5. I had a similar problem with a different car, it would go fine in town traffic but would only last about 5 minutes on the highway. The problem was the points gap in the distributor. Doesn't sound like a fuel problem to me unless the fuel pump is overheating and shutting off. I would have a look at all the grounds and check all the electrical connections if you haven't already done so.
  6. Starting in 1976.. 1966 TR4 1963 Ford something or other 1966 Chevy van.....ScoobieDoo 1974 Vega..Serious POS 1972 Plymouth Fury 1978 Yamaha 250 Enduro (I think) 197? Bedford van (England) 1977 Triumph Spitfire (England) 1976 Toyota Corolla (England) Stolen 1963 VW Bug (England) 1985 Pontiac Fiero (first new car) 1987 Chrysler LeBaron (new) (wrecked, not by me) 1976 Harley Davidson (basket case to like new) Stolen 1975 Corvette (sold to by the next car, the things we do for children) 1991 Ford Escort Wagon (new) 1983 Chevy Pickup 1979 Corvette (trade in for the next car) 1987 Corvette 1997 Chevy S10 (new) 1995 Corvette 1990 Audi 90 (airport car for Hawaii) 2000 Toyota Tundra (new) 1996 Corvette conv. 1985 VW Cabriolet 1996 Town & Country (growing children) demolished by a tree 1997 Plymouth Voyager (T-boned) 2003 VW Jetta (replacement airport car for the Audi) 1995 BMW318 (traded for the 75Z) 1975 280Z 1996 Town & Country (present parts getter) 1969 Triumph Spitfire (frame off restoration and V6 chevy powered, in the garage right now) 1977 280Z (owned for three days now) That's not counting the cars for the now ex-wife and the children. Quite a mixed bag. The one I miss the most is the 1994 vette, damn that car was fast.
  7. StephenJ, Thanks for finding a fix for this problem. My car is the same. Now I know how to fix it...
  8. Just wanted to say thanks to you guys and gals for helping me with my head lights and my rear defogger. I found everything I needed to repair those items by doing searches here. The headlights were easy, just sprayed the contact cleaner in the turn signal switch. The rear defog need the relay cleaned as well. Thanks again, y'all are great.