240260280z

I have the same kit from P.A.

Sorry, I mean from starter and ground to the posts on the battery in the sock battery tray. I don't have a Z in front of me but I want to buy two cables to do the job. I don't want to buy cables too short or too long. These seem like a nice length:

What are the optimal lengths for the battery cables?

Looks great! I am just about to attack a mirror so I am grateful for your excellent post. btw, How did you get the stem so smooth after all that chalky corrosion in the first picture?

Here is the one I was thinking of: One for sale here: (Eastern Canada) Click [TABLE] <tbody>[TR] [TD]Transmission[/TD] [TD]1st[/TD] [TD]2nd[/TD] [TD]3rd[/TD] [TD]4th[/TD] [TD]5th[/TD] [TD]6th[/TD] [TD]Final[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]NISMO Reinforced Cross[/TD] [TD]2.9071[/TD] [TD]1.9888[/TD] [TD]1.5373[/TD] [TD]1.2179[/TD] [TD]1.0000[/TD] [TD]0.8624[/TD] [TD]-[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Genuine 6-speed (FS6R92A)[/TD] [TD]3.6264[/TD] [TD]2.2000[/TD] [TD]1.5412[/TD] [TD]1.2132[/TD] [TD]1.0000[/TD] [TD]0.7674[/TD] [TD]3.6920[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Genuine 5-speed (FS5W71C )[/TD] [TD]3.3214[/TD] [TD]1.9023[/TD] [TD]1.3084[/TD] [TD]1.0000[/TD] [TD]0.8378[/TD] [TD]-[/TD] [TD]4.0830[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

In loverly etching primer... will be painted metallic grey like the powder coating

Substitute for a failed nylon adjuster nut Here is the working one(covered in etching primer): As the screw turns the light casing moves. Lithium grease helps lube the plastic. I never chased the threads yet. Here is the broken one Details of the broken fastener Solution: Ace Hardware SAE nutsert and am M6 1.0mm tap. Taps easy... the one in foreground is tapped and is now metric Fits nicely Done!

40 year old Ziebart is a @#$% Wash with lacquer thinner, wipe out paint tray, redo.... many times. Finally.... rusty metal detail of plastic threaded insert. It has a clear rubber boot to keep the water out. boot in place

The right turn indicator on the Jan 71 240z had allowed water to enter and the metal reflector was rotted with the chrome peeling off. Someone lost the 3mm screws over the years and had used wood screws. The amber plastic holes were toast. I managed to source a replacement from a friend however two of the 3mm screws had rotted away. This donor light did have an OK reflector and ok amber plastic however removing the 3mm screw remnants was like surgery. After removing what I could, I used a soldering iron to shape the amber plastic. Here are the two offending screws. Here is the donor with the plastic melted away to prevent damaging the amber part with the embedded rot. Note that I used the soldering iron to melt/shape/push the two plastic mounts for the reflector. Once the plastic was formed into a smaller-than-the-hole shape, the reflector simply popped off. Here is a reconstructive 3mm stud using JB Weld. The hole was useless so this was the only fix apart from melting amber plastic and tapping. Here is the original light with a new outer seal but with the offending reflector and the replacement reflector waiting in the wings...err front and centre. After some reforming the plastic stand-off's with the tip of the soldering iron, the new reflector is in place and secured by the same plastic. Note: forming the plastic with the iron requires a series of short, quick "pushes" with no long periods of the iron in one spot.

1101 Jan 71 even better: the dash has a date of Jan 9, 1971 (a saturday)

Here is a comparison of the old, stinky, yellow roof liner / head liner below the new liner. An upholstery expert from our club mentioned that steam can sometimes revive foam. As Jim Karst mentioned in another post on this site, the new liner is quite stiff and, when stuffed into place, it does not need to be taped up when the glue is seting. I used tape to mark the middle of each end. This helps when aligning. Note the bubbles. I left this liner in the sun for a day in an attempt to remove them but no luck. I also hit them with heat from a hair dryer and again no luck... so after applying glue and sticking to the roof, they disappeared.... go figure. Here are photos of 1/2 of the liner glued in place. I did not seem to take photos after these (or maybe I missed them). Anyway to get one side into place, load the roof and fabric with glue but stay away from the edges as they will be stuffed under the metal surrounding the roof perimeter. The liner has to slide into this area so glue will just cause problems. Make sure the glue is 20min tacky before putting the first half of the liner up so that it stays. Once it is up, apply glue to the second half and give it 5 min to tack before putting in place. I used a paint stick to push the liner into the gap/cave/etc. You can see the bubbles disappearing magically in this photo.

I agree.The stock ones fit well. I have refreshed the covers in a 240z and 260z and they fit fine, however those in the BD kit fit poorly due to incorrect shape when sewn together. Now to finish this thread with the headliner.

More photos of the trimmed vinyl at the door seal drip edge. Finished Here is a detail of the completed vinyl showing the amount at the dash corner. Also you can see how the door seal grabs the pinch weld...thus my comments above about not putting foam there. Here is how the window seal ties it all together. Too bad the flash makes the photo uglier than in person. Next up... the headliner

When the pillar vinyl is ready to go, spay the pinch weld on both sides of the pillar (at door seal and windshield). The vinyl should be run as far down past the pillar as possible so that the dash and kick panel and window/door seals cover all body metal from being exposed. Masked Glued (See you can take your time and do these pieces in two steps) Masked at door seal side Detail of the cuts at the corner Glued and folded and ready to go. Tucked into place Look no slice. The final pulling has not been completed in the photo nor the cuts at the lower corner of the windshield made. Here is what the finished trim looks like around the windshield after the excess is cut and the glue sets. Another shot of the windshield pinch-weld. The rubber windshield seal with cover all of this

Again the same procedure: Glue foam Cut foam Test fit vinyl "backwards" and hang it from the pinch weld using the trim stripping. Work from the coat hook forward and remove quarter windows. I forgot to mention above (AND CAN NOT EDIT GRRRRRRR): it is good to tap the trim stripping with a rubber hammer to seat it. Once happy with the fit, cut the excess material. Also you will have to get the corner cuts and folds tested right where the roof and A pillar meet. You can do this job in two steps: 1 along the roof and 2 along the pillar. Note how much masking is needed! I only applied glue to the outer pinch weld where the door seal goes as well as where the material will wrap. Let it tack for 15-20 min before pressing in place. Photos now on left side: Glue material only where the pinch weld will touch. Seat the trim stripping at the pinch weld and cut away the excess material underneath. Measure 10 times and cut once. Here is test fitting the fold and corner cut at the corner of the windshield. Note the incorrect cut I made in the header. I managed to glue it well underneath then hid it under the A pillar material's fold... I was lucky....learn from this and measure and test fit before cutting. Testing the fold even more A photo of the A pillar Foam and how far it goes. No need to put it near the pinch welds. Here is the starting point

The problem now is that the junk is getting mixed up with the good stuff at higher prices. The back rotors and pads on my bro's 3 year old Toyota Matrix rotted away as they were junk metal. His front calipers look 10 years old and the pads went as well.

Mark the centre on all parts even at the back even on the trim that holds the vinyl into the pinch-weld (the flash maked it difficult to see the white dot from the factory The first step of the installation is to test-fasten the vinyl to the pinch weld in the centre above the mirror then work to each side. The vinyl is "arse-backwards" at this point...just go with it...you are now enrolled into Applied Spacial Geometry 101. Then test-pull the vinyl around to the front of the window frame and make sure you have enough material to bond to the front of pinch weld at the top of the window frame. Also ensure that you have enough material for each side. AND make sure the wrapped part is puffy and wrinkle free to your liking. When happy with the test fit, mask the areas (blue masking tape and drop clothes worked for me). Cut the vinyl that would otherwise be trapped underneath the wrap so that it does not cause wrinkles and bumps. Spray the vinyl and window's top drip edge. You can choose to spray or not spray where the foam and corresponding vinyl mate: spraying pros: spraying foam and mating surface make a stronger long-term bond not spraying pros: not spraying foam and mating surface make it easier to install and adjust as the vinyl does not grab and tack to the foam when you install. Wait 15 - 20 min for the glue to get tacky. Fold the vinyl up to the pinch weld in the centre and work outwards towards each side. Sit in the car and scrutinize your work as you go. You will have to make diagonal cuts in the vinyl at the corners of the window to seat correctly. Cut just as you are attaching there. Remember that the A pillar trim will cover both ends of the header so don't worry too much about the ends other than going out far enough so there is no gap.

The foam goes on first and has two sides. The fabric side holds the glue and attaches to the metal An old blanket and the car cover make a quick and dirty drop-sheet Spray an even mist on the foam and on the metal, wait 5 min then attach. Use a sharp NEW box cutter to trim the foam to shape. The kit's foam is extra wide so you have to trim a lot. For a puffy look, layer the foam. HOWEVER, the pinch welds have to hold the vinyl and/or the fastening trim and/or the window rubber so DO NOT FOAM ANY PINCH WELDS. That was easy!

Note the the bump in the center pinch weld above the mirror area. This photos shows the back, side and front areas where the roof liner gets stuffed, only glue up to 3" or so away from this when installing the roof liner. There are 3 trim pieces that hold the vinyl to the two side pinch welds and to the front pinch weld The A Pillar vinyl starts behind the front of the 1/4 window. It is best to remove these windows when installing. In this photo, you can see the area where the roof liner is installed. It has rusted over the years and the painters. Some neutralizing spray would be a good preventative action.

There are no bolt-in 6 speeds that I know of. Have you considered changing the differential to move you into either into quick launch or low cruise rpm?

r u bot?

Banjo joints in ss brake lines my bro bought of ebay for his acura TL cracked and leaked within 3 months. Crap pot-metal. WARNING: They perfected polishing turds...beware the low price it is most likely a polished turd.

I think a japanese variant of the 240sx has a 6 speed that will work but some mods are required.... machining Z bell housing and drive shaft shortening and cross member adjustment. Most just use a 240sx transmission for better shifting but the same mods are required to make it work.