240260280z

Do the carbs look like this: or like this:

Thanks Mike, will do, I just stuck them with out securing yet in so it should be easy to swap. I just matched the original config.... however the seat belt hooks were also on that side? No one noticed yet but I also have the control arm hangers and corresponding cross member on in reverse

I have two Z's with missing driver door springs and have seen a few others with the same problem. I discovered this $7 tool and hope to use it to insert a new spring with the hinge on the car.

His site mentions that he trained in Italy initially to gain the metal crafting skills then went on from there. A great number of bicycle master builders had been hammering out great works too... along with furniture makers...Italy seems like it was a great choice for apprenticing to become an such an artisan. His site even alludes to gaining Carroll Shelby's respect of his aluminum skills. His whole site is a fabulous read...especially with his photos and commentary.

Looks like I have to flip the sway bar... murphy!

http://www.evaporust.ca/photos/

http://www.studiotimecapsule.com/aluminum_datsun_240z

I read that putting flecks on the floor when installing some epoxy garage floor paints often makes it difficult when finding dropped nuts and bolts .

Good ending to this thread Way to go.

If you can get hoses on the ends of the core, then pressurize,seal and monitor pressure over time (like a leak down test),then you can do in situ. Other methods are to seal one end, coat core with soapy water, pressurize, then look for bubbles or to immerse core in water, seal one end, pressurize, and look for bubbles, or to fill tank with water and UV dye, pressurize, then use UZ light to look for leaks.

$300 for floors and $170 for the rails: http://datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm http://baddogparts.com/

Had to get z out of brother's garage for winter. Relocated to storage facility

Red wire goes into the harness. I wrapped the red tape (not factory or PO) around it to hold the old black tape that I unwound to check and see that the red wire was factory.

I will put a check mark by both of those options Jim.

I had some problems in the past but I would like to report that my last experience was excellent. I ordered a weather stripping kit 2 years ago and just installed it. The kit was missing one seal (outer hatch top seal) that I only noticed a few weeks ago. I called them up and they sent me one. FIRST CLASS.

Thanks! The green one is accounted for and is one of two that I have connected. The other is the door& Room which are two wires tied together that go to the door switch.

Excellent idea... the flashes (turn and 4way) on this Z work intermittently so they need to be replaced or refreshed..

Thanks Steve, The red wire on mine goes back to the body harness that feed the rear of the car so it seems to be a different wire.

Here is a layman's overview of the EFI system to help you get a foundation of what you are dealing with. It is not really that complicated when you break it apart: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/overview.html

3000 rpm "rev limit" is often caused by the throttle velocity switch on the side of the throttle body. Usually it has water in it that shorts connections OR the wiring to it has a short. A quick check to see if it is working is to simply unplug it and see if you get past 3000 rpm. Here is a reference. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html The bad clip mechanism on 280z's is the cause of many fuel injection problems. Usually soldering newer connections with better clips (from a junkyard acr) is a good upgrade. To test the injector signal, simply plug a 12V light into the pins and see if it lights when the car is running. You can also swap the connectors between adjacent injectors to see if the problem moves. You can also listen to each injector with a long screw driver on it and pressing the other end against your ear. All should sound the same and have a metal click. You can listen then unplug and plug in the connector to hear the click start and stop. Some info here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

I am wondering if anyone every refreshed a 4 way flasher or blinker "can" or if anyone can post as link to online photos of the "guts" of either. Thanks,

Cool thanks! I will get one. I always wanted one. I never knew the price dropped so much. I remember looking at one in the late 80's called the Fox and Hound. It was ~ 200 to 300 if I recall correctly... heck I spent $80 on a weidmeuller co-ax cable stripping termination tool now a similar is $10 at radio shack. In subsea telecom we put a 5Hz to 150Hz AC "tone" on the cable for ROV's and sometimes divers to detect under the ocean floor... good to about 750km at 10Hz then the capacitance has eaten the signal.